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Greetings members. About 3 months ago I purchased a 2009 r230 with just over 90k on the clock. It's a Florida car that must have been garage kept and driven lightly. Interior is immaculate, and the engine bay and underside is clean with no rust. But I digress. I took it to the MD dealership and all the major items checked out, but they suggested a trans fluid flush and change for about $450-ish. That's really not that unreasonable a price to have done IMO, but I plan on keeping the car and would like to change the fluid myself, instead of making an appointment at the dealership and having it take all day. From all the information I've been able to garner so far, it seems like a doable project. But I'll definitely heed the to opinions and experiences of the community. So here's what I think is involved in the process...
1. Drain the oil from the pan AND the torque converter (taking note as to the amount of fluid that is drained)
2. Thoroughly clean the oil pan and replace the filter and oil pan gasket
3. Reinstall plugs and torque to spec.
4. Refill with at lest the amount of oil that have been extracted, then check with overflow.
Am I oversimplifying a process that has many more nuances and/or is MUCH more complicated,or is this the gist? Again, I'll differ to anyone who's has had success accomplished this, or if it is overwhelmingly deemed ill advised.
Thanks in advance everyone, and I welcome everyone's opinion..
He has an excellent 722.9 fluid change video on YouTube. He posts on this site with a userid that is all numbers. Usually in the General Mercedes section or Tech Talk section.
The overflow fill needs to be done with the transmission oil at operating temperature which is not accurately measured externally with an IR temperature measuring tool.
It's not a bad project, just a bit overly complicated due to the measurement of the level at temperature and draining out the excess. Most decent scan tools will display the transmission fluid temperature, which is much more precise than using an IR thermometer.
I've done it, and it is no big deal, if you can get the car in the air to work underneath it. Note it must remain level and start and run, to do the proper dribble drain to proper fluid level.
In my opinion, the precise temp for fluid level is not a big deal, as the measurement for 'drain flow' vs 'drain drip' is subjective, and the difference in amount of fluid being measured as <1 ounce. But Germans are PRECISE!
In other words I used the infrared thermometer, not the SDS, and the car is still driving just fine.
More info required: See PDF for parts, sources, and (old) prices.
You should always use the 'NEW' pan with oval dents... Tools required: M12 x 1.5 adaptor for fill port; fluid pump & tubing; infrared thermometer; E10 external Torx; 27mm socket(?) for crank;
If you have the old pan, FCP Euro has a nice kit that has the new pan with the proper gasket, stand pipe, and filter. Also don't forget that the pan bolts are one time use only.
I have a 2007 SL65 with the 722.6 transmission. Does it have a drain plug on the torque converter? I have rotated it around twice and do not see one but it is listed as there on the EWA - WIS/ASRA in a diagram labled as "2a." If it does have a plug, where is it?. Also, does the 722.6 pan have what is called the "Pipe"
Part# 220-271-009-7-MBZ? I do not see one..
I have a 2007 SL65 with the 722.6 transmission. Does it have a drain plug on the torque converter? I have rotated it around twice and do not see one but it is listed as there on the EWA - WIS/ASRA in a diagram labled as "2a." If it does have a plug, where is it?. Also, does the 722.6 pan have what is called the "Pipe"
Part# 220-271-009-7-MBZ? I do not see one..
Here, then if you don't see one that means that it doesn't have one, might not be a original torque converter. they exist with/without
Thanks everyone who replied to my query!! I'm now armed with the knowledge I need to take on this project. However while researching this topic, I came across a video where a chap also drained the fluid from the trans cooler/radiator unit. Would anyone suggest that as well? Is the amount of juice that's in there be worth the squeeze to get it out?
That's a small fraction of the overall quantity, I've personally never bothered draining the external cooler. In reality you never get 100% of the old stuff out, there's always some residual.
Using Xentry while running the car after a transmission oil change I see where it shows the ATF temperature and you can watch it climb from cold to 80 degrees. Mine finally reached over 90 degrees before it leveled out. Xentry gave fluid values from in the 53 when it was cold to 84 when hot. I originally had 6 liters and added 2 more liters. The book says 7.5 liters (+0.5). What is the correct values for fluid fill when reading it from Xentry both cold and hot? Should the hot value be read at exactly 80 degrees or any temperature at or above 80 degrees? I ask the last question because I observed the fluid level indicator in Xentry kept increasing as the temperature rose above 80 degrees. Note: this is on a 2007 SL65 with a 722.649 transmission.
Transmission dipstick.
I did purchase that exact dipstick from Pelican Parts made by Baum Tools. From my understanding the original MB dipstick had low and high markings for when the transmission is cold and hot. This transmission dipstick has numbered markings as shown in the attached picture. So now I need to know what the number values should be either for the dipstick or in Xentry for the R230. I think it would be good information for all use SL owners to know.
I've done it, and it is no big deal, if you can get the car in the air to work underneath it. Note it must remain level and start and run, to do the proper dribble drain to proper fluid level.
In my opinion, the precise temp for fluid level is not a big deal, as the measurement for 'drain flow' vs 'drain drip' is subjective, and the difference in amount of fluid being measured as <1 ounce. But Germans are PRECISE!
In other words I used the infrared thermometer, not the SDS, and the car is still driving just fine.
More info required: See PDF for parts, sources, and (old) prices.
You should always use the 'NEW' pan with oval dents... Tools required: M12 x 1.5 adaptor for fill port; fluid pump & tubing; infrared thermometer; E10 external Torx; 27mm socket(?) for crank;
Shell ATF 134 FE or Shell Spirax S6 ME or MB Approved
Just wanted to pop in and say thank you for this information in one concise place. It allowed to to figure out that my 2008 GL is still on the original pan (or the last trans service was done before a pan update).
06-12-2020, 12:06 PM
