SL/R230: Acceleration fail
#1
Acceleration fail
When I'm driving my SL 500 R230 suddenly my acceleration fails while in drive gear but keeps raving but doesn't respond until I stop put it in parking then drive again then it will move anyone has any knowledge what could be the cause?
#6
It has probably gone into 'limp' mode. When it used to happened on my 2004 it was due to a well known problem with the conductor plate in the transmission.
As is often the case with the R230, the starting point is to read the codes with a diagnostic tool such as iCarSoft or something more sophisticated.
Good Luck
Gary
As is often the case with the R230, the starting point is to read the codes with a diagnostic tool such as iCarSoft or something more sophisticated.
Good Luck
Gary
#7
It has probably gone into 'limp' mode. When it used to happened on my 2004 it was due to a well known problem with the conductor plate in the transmission.
As is often the case with the R230, the starting point is to read the codes with a diagnostic tool such as iCarSoft or something more sophisticated.
Good Luck
Gary
As is often the case with the R230, the starting point is to read the codes with a diagnostic tool such as iCarSoft or something more sophisticated.
Good Luck
Gary
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#8
Super Member
Another well known cause for limp mode is the electronic throttle pedal giving errors to the ECU.
If you stab the throttle, and it goes into limp mode, you will likely need to change the throttle pedal to fix it.
If you stop the car, turn it off, then start and drive again, it will go away temporarily. That is until you punch it again.
If you stab the throttle, and it goes into limp mode, you will likely need to change the throttle pedal to fix it.
If you stop the car, turn it off, then start and drive again, it will go away temporarily. That is until you punch it again.
The following users liked this post:
tonylinc (08-06-2020)
#9
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SL55AMG, GL450, SLK, S550, Maserati Coupe
Another well known cause for limp mode is the electronic throttle pedal giving errors to the ECU.
If you stab the throttle, and it goes into limp mode, you will likely need to change the throttle pedal to fix it.
If you stop the car, turn it off, then start and drive again, it will go away temporarily. That is until you punch it again.
If you stab the throttle, and it goes into limp mode, you will likely need to change the throttle pedal to fix it.
If you stop the car, turn it off, then start and drive again, it will go away temporarily. That is until you punch it again.
Last edited by tonylinc; 08-06-2020 at 12:28 PM.
#10
Given your stable of cars, you're probably aware, but if you haven't already done so, you might save yourself some time and money by getting the codes pulled before you start replacing parts. iCarSoft or Star or a friendly indie will get you deeper into the systems and should get you closer to the problem. A replacement pedal at $117 plus labor isn't too bad, but in general, throwing parts at a problem with fingers crossed is an expensive way to keep these cars on the road.
My 2004 SL had a strange problem with the cooling system. The AC ran cold and had been checked by my indie already. On long journeys on hot days I had to keep turning the AC up to keep the cabin cool. A quick check with a diagnostic scanner showed that one of the thermistors was open circuit. I got a packet of replacements for just a few dollars and my indie pulled out the overhead console and soldered in the new part. Without the codes - and some help from Rodney - I would likely have gone after the AC control unit and spent a lot of money on replacement parts with little success.
Good Luck
Gary
My 2004 SL had a strange problem with the cooling system. The AC ran cold and had been checked by my indie already. On long journeys on hot days I had to keep turning the AC up to keep the cabin cool. A quick check with a diagnostic scanner showed that one of the thermistors was open circuit. I got a packet of replacements for just a few dollars and my indie pulled out the overhead console and soldered in the new part. Without the codes - and some help from Rodney - I would likely have gone after the AC control unit and spent a lot of money on replacement parts with little success.
Good Luck
Gary
#11
Senior Member
Regarding the accelerator pedal, you might want to check this thread . Basically a ten cent fix, if that.
Seems that the cars want to see 4.8 volts from the pedal for wide open throttle, but if that value is exceeded at all the systems throw the car into limp mode.
I've experienced this with my SL600; I plant to put a thin spacer on the back of my pedal, somewhat like in the thread I linked to.
Mercedes really should have allowed for a little more voltage variation in their coding, since most electronic components drift a little over time. Hell, .1 volts over a 5 volt range is only a 2% variation - for most electronic components, that's within normal for brand new!
Seems that the cars want to see 4.8 volts from the pedal for wide open throttle, but if that value is exceeded at all the systems throw the car into limp mode.
I've experienced this with my SL600; I plant to put a thin spacer on the back of my pedal, somewhat like in the thread I linked to.
Mercedes really should have allowed for a little more voltage variation in their coding, since most electronic components drift a little over time. Hell, .1 volts over a 5 volt range is only a 2% variation - for most electronic components, that's within normal for brand new!
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: My house
Posts: 455
Received 176 Likes
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SL55AMG, GL450, SLK, S550, Maserati Coupe
Given your stable of cars, you're probably aware, but if you haven't already done so, you might save yourself some time and money by getting the codes pulled before you start replacing parts. iCarSoft or Star or a friendly indie will get you deeper into the systems and should get you closer to the problem. A replacement pedal at $117 plus labor isn't too bad, but in general, throwing parts at a problem with fingers crossed is an expensive way to keep these cars on the road.
My 2004 SL had a strange problem with the cooling system. The AC ran cold and had been checked by my indie already. On long journeys on hot days I had to keep turning the AC up to keep the cabin cool. A quick check with a diagnostic scanner showed that one of the thermistors was open circuit. I got a packet of replacements for just a few dollars and my indie pulled out the overhead console and soldered in the new part. Without the codes - and some help from Rodney - I would likely have gone after the AC control unit and spent a lot of money on replacement parts with little success.
Good Luck
Gary
My 2004 SL had a strange problem with the cooling system. The AC ran cold and had been checked by my indie already. On long journeys on hot days I had to keep turning the AC up to keep the cabin cool. A quick check with a diagnostic scanner showed that one of the thermistors was open circuit. I got a packet of replacements for just a few dollars and my indie pulled out the overhead console and soldered in the new part. Without the codes - and some help from Rodney - I would likely have gone after the AC control unit and spent a lot of money on replacement parts with little success.
Good Luck
Gary