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I haven't seen a lowered MY17 SL450 yet (except ours, but that's a 550).
Most SL's ride on springs, so a spring replacement is required.
Links only work on ABC and it's a poor way of doing it. Rougher ride and the SL will eat through lots of tires (inner wear). Electronic lowering modules will do a better job and be cheaper in the long run.
The MY17 does get lowered like every other R231. There is no difference.
2020 Audi R8 V10 Performance Spyder / 2019 BMW X5 M Sport
Originally Posted by Wolfman
I haven't seen a lowered MY17 SL450 yet (except ours, but that's a 550).
Most SL's ride on springs, so a spring replacement is required.
Links only work on ABC and it's a poor way of doing it. Rougher ride and the SL will eat through lots of tires (inner wear). Electronic lowering modules will do a better job and be cheaper in the long run.
The MY17 does get lowered like every other R231. There is no difference.
Sorry, I am new to the Benz scene. So are you saying all SL from 2013 and up cannot use links to lower them? They all use conventional springs ? I thought it was some sort of hydraulic system
Sorry, I am new to the Benz scene. So are you saying all SL from 2013 and up cannot use links to lower them? They all use conventional springs ? I thought it was some sort of hydraulic system
That's more or less the reality.
The prior SL (R230) from 2002-2012 used an active hydraulic suspensions system call ABC.
A great system that had some reliability issues partially due to the fact that MB didn't have a proper service/maintenance process in place, leading to very pricey repairs.
With the 2013, the ABC suspension matured and became a $4k option with springs being the default.
That means ant only a tiny percentage of these SL's have ABC (<5%). Virtually no SL400/450 have ABC.
2020 Audi R8 V10 Performance Spyder / 2019 BMW X5 M Sport
Originally Posted by Wolfman
That's more or less the reality.
The prior SL (R230) from 2002-2012 used an active hydraulic suspensions system call ABC.
A great system that had some reliability issues partially due to the fact that MB didn't have a proper service/maintenance process in place, leading to very pricey repairs.
With the 2013, the ABC suspension matured and became a $4k option with springs being the default.
That means ant only a tiny percentage of these SL's have ABC (<5%). Virtually no SL400/450 have ABC.
So, no links
You mentioned your 550 is lowered right? How did you lower yours? Springs? If so, which?
You mentioned your 550 is lowered right? How did you lower yours? Springs? If so, which?
I ordered our SL with ABC, so lowering is easy. I used links in the past but realized that, along with the rougher ride, the lower costs were quickly offset by wasting a lot of tires. SL's are notorious for inner tire wear (primarily in the rear), even if not lowered and properly aligned. Including camber adjustments.
So I use a Renntech lowering module; it's decent but there are better ones. Btw, always add at least 2-4psi extra on the rears to keep the tires even.
We are on our 3rd R231 SL550, the first one had springs (not terrible but I am not a fan) which I lowered via H&R sport springs and then two with ABC.
When lowered via springs you will scrape the front bumper due to the longer overhang and inability to raise the car...
As mentioned, if you have the ABC suspension option then a lowering module will work on your vehicle. The RENNtech V3 DLM is very easy to use/modify and offers speed dependent lowering functionality, which allows the vehicle to return to its factory ride-height at a pre-set speed.
As mentioned, if you have the ABC suspension option then a lowering module will work on your vehicle. The RENNtech V3 DLM is very easy to use/modify and offers speed dependent lowering functionality, which allows the vehicle to return to its factory ride-height at a pre-set speed.
That's the module we have installed. It works well but to control it you have to be Windows or Android-centric. I use and prefer Apple and would greatly prefer my iPhone for changing pre-sets or fine-tuning.
Had some issues using a Samsung Galaxy tablet as well as the software somehow ran a 7" model and not the 8" one (or perhaps it was the other way around).
It would also be much easier to use a BT or Wifi interface versus wired... It's a solid product though!
SL's are notorious for inner tire wear (primarily in the rear), even if not lowered and properly aligned. Including camber adjustments.
That’s right – because OEM there is only front and rear basic Toe/directional adjustment!
No Camber or Caster to adjust tire contact angle. We saw the need therefore to design and re-instate from the early 90’s full/precise adjustment capability.
The K-MAC patented design also at the same time replaces the 4 front and rear highest wearing bushings.
Is precise single wrench adjustment – accurately under load direct on alignment rack. For the front (only) you can fit inaccurate “one only offset position” fluted bolts but they only supply 1/8” (3mm). K-MAC kit provides up to 4 times this adjustment range and the bushings are also designed to still supply 2 axis movement but without the OEM oil and air voids. Result is therefore significantly improved brake and steering response. CAMBER – Allows to actually change the tire contact angle resolving costly, premature edge wear, improving traction/understeer/oversteer CASTER – Correctly resolves steering pull, increases steering response. With better turn in and high speed directional control. Along with improved anti dive/lift under brake and acceleration. Essential for day to day commuting encountering high cambered roads, altering/lowering height, load carrying, suspension sag, fitting wide profile tires or curb knock damage. Track days dialling in extra negative camber.
Rear Camber kit includes ‘extra’ Toe adjustment to compensate for the new Camber facility. Adjusts the lower control arm inwards (comes with bush extraction tool allowing to install on vehicle). We do not manufacture adjustable ‘arms’ – as difficult to install/adjust and to resolve premature inner edge wear need to reduce all important clearance top of tire to outer fender.
Front Camber and Caster kit P/N 502216K $480 Rear Camber (and extra Toe) Kit P/N 502526K $480
Also manufactured is set of ‘12’ bushings for the 6 ‘multi link rear arms’. Designed to significantly improve rear end stability, reduce twitch/flex, gain traction – especially when applying power to lane change/overtake. P/N 502528L $480
AMG models P/N 502528-1K $480
Delivery one kit $40 or front and rear kits $50. We accept PayPal, Visa or MasterCard.
2020 Audi R8 V10 Performance Spyder / 2019 BMW X5 M Sport
Originally Posted by Wolfman
I ordered our SL with ABC, so lowering is easy. I used links in the past but realized that, along with the rougher ride, the lower costs were quickly offset by wasting a lot of tires. SL's are notorious for inner tire wear (primarily in the rear), even if not lowered and properly aligned. Including camber adjustments.
So I use a Renntech lowering module; it's decent but there are better ones. Btw, always add at least 2-4psi extra on the rears to keep the tires even.
We are on our 3rd R231 SL550, the first one had springs (not terrible but I am not a fan) which I lowered via H&R sport springs and then two with ABC.
When lowered via springs you will scrape the front bumper due to the longer overhang and inability to raise the car...
Here are some pics of the older two:
Thank you for the info and the pics, both look great!!! Are those both springs or 1 is springs and the other is links?
So I understand that lowering the car will affect tire wear, but wouldn't that happen regardless of whether you use springs, module or links? All of them do the same thing just in different ways, right? So I am just asking why 1 is worse than the other in terms of premature tire wear, or uneven tire wear?
I guess same question goes for the front bumper scraping? I suppose links or a module could also cause the bumper to scrape depending on the approach angle or the size of the driveway entry or whatever it is.
Thank you for the info and the pics, both look great!!! Are those both springs or 1 is springs and the other is links?
So I understand that lowering the car will affect tire wear, but wouldn't that happen regardless of whether you use springs, module or links? All of them do the same thing just in different ways, right? So I am just asking why 1 is worse than the other in terms of premature tire wear, or uneven tire wear?
I guess same question goes for the front bumper scraping? I suppose links or a module could also cause the bumper to scrape depending on the approach angle or the size of the driveway entry or whatever it is.
SL with the red interior was on springs, the porcelain white interior with ABC.
Here is the main difference between springs, links and ELM's (lowering modules):
1. Springs are static. New springs simply lower the car. Less suspension travel will result in less ride comfort. It's a personal preference to be considered positive or negative.
There are no adjustable coil-over kits available for the SL.
Alignment is required. Scrapes occur since the ride height is fixed.
2. ABC with links: Links lower the car by fooling the ride height sensors to think it is at stock height while actually being lowered. Common cheap way to lower a Mercedes with ABC or Airmatic.
The lower the ride the rougher the ride. Alignment is required. What makes links tough is that ABC also lowers the car at speed so it will actually ride lower than aligned or when standing still.
Unless really slammed, there should be no/little scraping because you can raise the car manually by pressing a button on the center console.
3. Lowering modules adjust the ABC system electronically by basically sending wrong data, fooling the system just like links.
What is different is that modules typically have a speed sensor setting over which they raise the car back to stock height (essentially disabling themselves) while driving. So the suspension dynamics at speed remain factory.
Normally there is no alignment required as most tire wear is above 30mph and the speed sensors are defaulted to that speed (adjustable).
This is for a normal drop of course and normal driving. Dramatic drops will still impact ride quality and tire wear.
There is less chance for scraping because the car can be raised as mentioned, plus even changed to stock height instantly.
Other benefits:
1. Pre-sets for changing heights to pre-defined drops within a second. Pick your preferred weekend drop
Fine height adjustment at each wheel in 1mm increments.
2. Can be turned off electronically if desired for MB service.
3. Can be uninstalled and moved to the next car or sold. These sell fast.
2020 Audi R8 V10 Performance Spyder / 2019 BMW X5 M Sport
Thank you very much for the detailed information. I know quite a bit about cars and modifying them but never had a benz yet!
Lots of benefits of the lowering module it seems, however I am not sure how I feel about it going back to stock height or rising at all once driving as I want it to be lowered at all times.
I also didn't know that with the links, you could push a button to raise it up to avoid scraping it. VERY COOL!
2020 Audi R8 V10 Performance Spyder / 2019 BMW X5 M Sport
Your SL with the red interior looks much lower than the other one with the Porcelain interior. I guess that's because the links are adjustable and you didn't go as low, right?
Your SL with the red interior looks much lower than the other one with the Porcelain interior. I guess that's because the links are adjustable and you didn't go as low, right?
Correct, the H&R springs were a touch too low for my taste. Again, its a question of preference but our driveway had to be entered/exited very slowly with that one.
The one with the Porcelain interior has a module installed. Last time I used links was with our previous SL600 (pic for reference). The brand was adjustableairride.com. Pricier but better than many of the Ebay versions.
I ordered our SL with ABC, so lowering is easy. I used links in the past but realized that, along with the rougher ride, the lower costs were quickly offset by wasting a lot of tires. SL's are notorious for inner tire wear (primarily in the rear), even if not lowered and properly aligned. Including camber adjustments.
So I use a Renntech lowering module; it's decent but there are better ones. Btw, always add at least 2-4psi extra on the rears to keep the tires even.
We are on our 3rd R231 SL550, the first one had springs (not terrible but I am not a fan) which I lowered via H&R sport springs and then two with ABC.
When lowered via springs you will scrape the front bumper due to the longer overhang and inability to raise the car...
Here are some pics of the older two:
Wolfman,
I have a '17 SL450 without ABC. I have called H&R but they have no listings for springs after '15 for SL's, are those what you used?
Wolfman,
I have a '17 SL450 without ABC. I have called H&R but they have no listings for springs after '15 for SL's, are those what you used?
Those were the H&R sport springs on the top pic. Springs for the SL's are all the same AFAIK so there should be no difference between a 2013 and a 2017.
I haven't seen a lowered MY17 SL450 yet (except ours, but that's a 550).
Most SL's ride on springs, so a spring replacement is required.
Links only work on ABC and it's a poor way of doing it. Rougher ride and the SL will eat through lots of tires (inner wear). Electronic lowering modules will do a better job and be cheaper in the long run.
The MY17 does get lowered like every other R231. There is no difference.
I need to go and look at my car but yours does not look any lower than mine is and will lower another 5 to 13mm (depending on drive mode) as speed increases.
I agree it does look higher - I'll try and measure properly - camera angle is deceiving as well - need to have the lens level with the top of the wheel.
05-19-2017, 12:24 PM
