Silver_Spear

Hi guys,

For some reason, tried to open the centre console doors yesterday and only one of them flipped upwards.
Is this common for these cars? There is something related to the spring of the other door which is not working.

Tried to search the web for the correct way to remove this console and fix it, but couldn't find anything. Can somebody please share the procedure so that I can fix this?
Even detailed back side pictures help.

Thanks
Danny
2013 Mercedes SL350

Silver_Spear

No one?

Utopia Texas

Piperkid

I had the same problem and dealer replaced the mechanism. No problems since but I am fairly carefu with them
Don't know if the replacement parts are any different than the original.

Silver_Spear

My 2013 is out of warranty now, so no luck for me.
I am trying to find a writeup about how to remove it at least...

rorywquin

Unfortunately there are so few (relatively) SLs around that there is not a big knowledge base out there. I had a SLK and was a member of the SLK World and there is nothing those guys don't know about SLKs. I do wish we have something similar for the SL.

Piperkid

I also had an SLK and was active in the forum. Pretty active with a lot of knowledge.
Not so much here!

Silver_Spear

Any chance one can find an e-tech manual for these cars?

Utopia Texas

Xkeots

I just got my 17 Sl back from service and only one side now opens. If any info out there, please share

Utopia Texas

Unfortunately a known problem. I have had that same thing happen on both a 2008 SL 550 and a 2017 SL 450. Someone posted a fix for the spring quite some time back but then came in and said that it did not last and that the whole door assembly on both sides has to be replaced. Maybe somebody has some new information that is a little more positive.

Jspann07

Try holding the button in while the driver side door is already open and gently lift the right side to open. Spray silicone on all parts and hopefully your good to go. Worked for me.

Bitbytr

USA LHD version here and the door nearest to the driver doesn't flip open: not stuck, just the spring mechanism nonfunctioning so no, silicone spray's not gonna do it.
Still searching for a fix...

rorywquin

Will this help?

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpd...IQhJcjW_j1jRPQ

Bitbytr

Whoa! In one. Thanks a lot.

I watched the videos and the guy, NorseViking, does a bang up job explaining and showing the process. He also demonstrates great skill and patience, two prerequisites I think I lack for this fairly involved task. I just picked up the car and this is the only defect I have found and, frankly, it is pretty insignificant and minor so I am predisposed at this point to live with it, I think.

Many thanks again!

crconsulting

I agree there are fewer of these cars out there. I see very few on the road compared to r129 and r230’s
Plus, I believe the r231’s have proven pretty reliable with mostly minor issues for the majority of owners. (this has been the case for me).
I have already seen a few examples having 110-150k miles on Autotrader! There’s one on there right now with 136k. I’m willing to bet many owners of these cars don’t even have 50k on them yet. They are mostly 3rd cars for weekends or pleasure drives.
It will take time to build a knowledge base…

Bay Leaf

Mine's done exactly the same. So much for Mercedes being over engineered.

spinalator

I purchased a used center console on e-bay and replaced the broken door. No problems since and its been over 2 years. I followed the U-Tube directions to remove and replace the center console door. It wasn't to bad.

RonNSoCal

I have the same problem and the dealer refused to fix it under warranty while under a CPO extended warranty. My service tech reported Mercedes solution is to replace the whole unit for about $1200. I have learned to live with it. Turns out I rarely open it anyway.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

That's nuts. Depending on the interior color, the doors (lids) run from $400 to $500 new. Replacing them should take less than an hour.

rbrockett

The videos show in great detail how to remove the console lid, so thanks to the poster that mentioned NorseViking's YouTube stuff, and many thanks to NorseViking himself. A word of caution regarding replacing just the doors, and a couple of things of note:

• I am not new to working on my cars and taking the panels off to get to the console was not difficult at all. I took my time and was overly careful so it took a bit to take it all apart, but if I have to do it again it will only take me a few minutes. I did not see any reason to pull the secondary battery. I would suggest being careful, but there is plenty of room to pull the rear-most clip out without going to that trouble.
• NorseViking talks about the 'push-ins on the side panel fascia'. I was confused about the orientation of the panel from the video #11, so I misunderstood how the push-ins worked relative to the plastic hooks that slip in. For clarification, the side clips end behind the shifter and the push-ins work in the same orientation as the plastic clips. So once the side clips have been pulled out, pull the dash end of the panel backwards and the whole panel slides back and pulls off very easily. No pulling out at the bottom of the panel at the dash.
• Now to the reason for my post. I was simply unable to remove the hinge pins that hold the lids on. I tried everything. I ruined three sets of needle-nosed pliars trying to get them skinny enough to get into the hole and to grab on the flats of those pins. I'm guessing it is possible, but I simply could not do it. Because of that, I gave up and chose to rebuild the broken spring pin hole with the lid still mounted. I put the spring back in and with the lid held open I loaded that area with the JB Weld made for plastics, let it cure, and then put on a second layer just for insurance. I also built up the same area on the other side that was not broken just as a precaution. For anyone else looking to make this repair, IMO this approach is easier than pulling the pins. Either way you go you still have to rebuild the pin hole boss, so I don't see the need to pull the lids off if you don't have to. In addition, I created a spring retainer by taking a washer with an ID the same as the spring mounting boss' OD, cut a key out so that I could slip it over the retainer pin on the spring mounting boss and then rotated the washer 180 degrees so that it would stay in place.

If anyone on here is thinking AT ALL about attempting this repair, by all means do it. It just isn't that hard. Watch NorseViking's videos, and you have everything you need to make this repair. Also, if anyone else on here has done the repair like NorseViking did, I would be curious to know just how you got those hinge pins out. They are a bear.

spinalator

I used a hemostat. It easily grabbed the pin and I was able to pull them out.

rbrockett

A hemostat. Brilliant! I will keep that in mind if it should happen again. Thanks!