Hello
can anyone source a valve body for a 2013 sl550?

I had mine rebuilt but it kicks harder then ever so I’m assuming the solenoids took a crap bec I have extremely hard shifts from 2-3rd gear

So, is it the valve body or just the solenoids?

By the way, was the rebuilt valve body ever initialized/activated properly? That may be your problem.

I had the board refurbished bec it had issues on the freeway with shifting
when everything was put back together the solenoids weren’t marked and not put in the same place. And now I have a crazy hard shift from 2nd - 3rd. Outside of that it shifts amazing

Oops! Somebody didn't watch the YouTube videos! Sounds like you need to have the valve body recalibrated, which is what would need to be done with new valves/solenoids.

To answer you original question, your Mercedes dealer is the only reliable source for a new valvebody. And, they won't sell it to you without installation. Gonna run you about $2000 is my guess. A few years back, I had gone the same route as you (but I marked my valves and locations) and still eventually had to go to the dealer for a new valve body. That was for my 2004 SL500 with essentially the same tranny. I think it cost around $1500 then, but I didn't keep the paperwork after I traded the car. MAYBE you'll be lucky and only require a calibration. There is a process within XENTRY to do that, but it takes two people--one to drive and one to step through the process.

Oh no it was adapted and recalibrated. I have someone that works at Mercedes doing all of that.

recalibration was done many times in the hopes that it would fix the issue

Did the calibration involve driving the car while someone activated stuff in XENTRY? If it was still shifting hard after that, did the persons doing the calibration conclude it was a bad valve body? Is the hard shifting only from 2nd to 3rd, or from 3rd to 2nd, as well? You may just need to replace a couple of valves instead of the whole valve body assembly.

To answer the question yes he was doing the entry calibration while we were driving… First I was driving… Then he was driving

And I think that’s why he concluded that it was probably some of the solenoids that were bad but he’s trying to get a whole valve body with solenoids that work for me but he just can’t get it

So they are back ordered from MB USA?
I believe you probably have a solenoid problem…
Also, not sure how drivable the car is, but sometimes the car has to be driven a few hundred miles to fine tune the adaptation 🙁

Good Luck!

I definitely think solenoids are the problem. It’s somewhat drivable. The problem is from 2nd to 3rd the kick is extremely violent and I don’t want it to cause other problems. I’ve been trying to source other solenoids but I can only get my hands on the blue ones I believe or the black ones I can’t get a whole set.

Well, If it’s that bad than you definitely can’t dive it for adaptation 🙁
I believe BOSCH is OEM manufacturer of those solenoids. I’ve seen the black ones for sale somewhere fairly recently.
(edit here they are: https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/BS-2202771098 )

There are some older part numbers for those solenoids that show NLA…
Double check, but look under these MB part numbers for availability.

220-277-09-98
220-277-10-98

I do have some solenoids from my SL500, which I think will work since the tranny was the 7G 722.9 and the part numbers are the same. I have two sets (I may even had a 3rd still in the spare conductor plate). The part numbers are A2202770998 for the green tops and A2202771098 for the black tops. I think I got them off of ebay as refurbished. Never had the opportunity (or need) to use them before I sold the car. Send me a private message if you are interested.


A 220 277 09 98

A 220 277 10 98





I can send the set to you to try. If they work, you can send me $200 for the set. If they don't, just send them back.

My second set are in sealed packages.

I just saw you can get a complete set used on Amazon for $241. So, if you want mine and they work, I'll sell them for $150.

Amazon says they don't fit my car (2015 SL400), but the EPC says they do. So, be sure to check the part numbers.

I don’t remember what the parts numbers were for mine I just have this image

I sent you a private message.
also, is there a transmission fluid pump that you recommend off Amazon that can pull out my new fluid so that I can reuse it because I literally just put in new fluid when I put this valve body in and it has no mileage on it so I’d like to see if I could reuse it

See Attached MB 722.9 tips doc.

Crap! This is from page 16 of the document @crconsulting just posted. This says you must replace the entire conductor plate with valves. Interesting.

If this is the case, then why are the individual valves for sale through automotive parts sites?

That’s my question as well. Because you should be able to adapt, new solenoids, if you have the software.

That’s the ideal way of doing it, but we’re already down the worm hole…
You can usually get way with replacing one or two solenoids, but my experience is, results can be unpredictable the more solenoids you replace.

Obviously, just focus on the solenoid/circuit responsible for that 2nd to 3rd shift.

That was my thinking, as well. I skimmed the document you published and did not see which solenoids/valve pair controlled the 2-3 shift.

By chance do you know which solenoids are responsible for that? Because I think that’s what I’d like to do as well I just don’t know which ones are responsible for that.

Upshift from 2nd to 3rd

And I think even a little bit of 3rd to 2nd downshift.

But it was definitely between those two years

Not off the top of my head. I’ll look thru some of my notes, ( to see if it’s covered somewhere)
but see attached doc which may also help.

The attachment below does a better job of explaining the shift function on the 722.9 and solenoid interaction.

So, using these table and diagrams, we can conclude that the 2-3 gear change is controlled by K1, B1, K3, and B2 valves (two blue tops and two black tops).