SL-Class (R232) Discussion on the 2022 R232

SL/R232: How is this not a bargain?

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Old Jan 19, 2026 | 10:13 PM
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How is this not a bargain?

I just bought a 2022 SL63 with less than 9k miles on it for 45% off the original sticker. Some other poor soul took a $90k hit. For that I get a near supercar with ridiculous horsepower and carbon ceramic brakes in a convertible format that I have always been in love with (my 5th softtop). The only big negative on these cars seems to be the battery draw when parked, but this has either been eliminated or mitigated. I left the car 8 days while out of town last week and returned to 50%+ battery charge. I bought it CPO so I have about 20 months warranty should something else be amiss.

I am a previous 911 4S and 911 turbo owner and this car is certainly not as light on its feet, but the power and handling are there. Plus I can get in and out of it without much risk of a back injury 😊.
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Old Jan 20, 2026 | 04:45 PM
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Old Jan 20, 2026 | 07:42 PM
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The original buyer may have gotten a nice discount and didn't pay sticker, but at the same time, the trade in they got for it was probably significantly lower than what they sold it to you for. Dealership wants to make a profit after all. Did you check if it was a buyback? A number of these were bought back from what I'm hearing due to the plethora off issues with them. Congrats, though. In theory it's a great car. I brought new life to the SL. It brought the Sport back, but failed on the L in the name. Can't win everything ;-).
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Old Jan 20, 2026 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by cutandrun
I just bought a 2022 SL63 with less than 9k miles on it for 45% off the original sticker. Some other poor soul took a $90k hit. For that I get a near supercar with ridiculous horsepower and carbon ceramic brakes in a convertible format that I have always been in love with (my 5th softtop). The only big negative on these cars seems to be the battery draw when parked, but this has either been eliminated or mitigated. I left the car 8 days while out of town last week and returned to 50%+ battery charge. I bought it CPO so I have about 20 months warranty should something else be amiss.

I am a previous 911 4S and 911 turbo owner and this car is certainly not as light on its feet, but the power and handling are there. Plus I can get in and out of it without much risk of a back injury 😊.
Carbon brakes and rotors?
If yes, is it your first set?
If yes again, do you know the steps to avoid unnecessary wear of the brakes and rotors?
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Old Jan 21, 2026 | 02:50 AM
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Originally Posted by MB2timer
Carbon brakes and rotors?
If yes, is it your first set?
If yes again, do you know the steps to avoid unnecessary wear of the brakes and rotors?
Hey I don’t have CCBs on my SL but my ‘26 Z06 does. Can you share your CCBs for dummies tips? Thanks in advance.
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Old Jan 21, 2026 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Dunga
Hey I don’t have CCBs on my SL but my ‘26 Z06 does. Can you share your CCBs for dummies tips? Thanks in advance.
The most important concern for carbon stack rotors, or even single stack is, you must NOT ride the brakes, when they are cold.
Riding the brakes causes abrasive grit and particles to disintegrate from the calipers and rotors, which further accelerates the abrasion process.
For some atomic scale reason, when the carbon is warm, the material binds and holds together like the difference between carbon graphite, and diamonds.
The grit gets between and around the calipers and brakes and acts like a disc sander.
Once the discs and calipers are warmed up, riding the brakes will cause negligible wear.
To warm them up, get the car going to about 35-45 mph, then use moderate to heavy pressure (not panic stop pressure) on the brake pedal to slow to 5mph, then repeat 5-6 times, then the brakes will (edit) be warm, and from there on until they cool again, you will have negligible wear.
Do not come to a full stop in between these cycles.
This is a similar procedure to, but different than bedding techniques when NEW brakes and rotors are installed.

Last edited by MB2timer; Jan 21, 2026 at 11:29 PM. Reason: Cause
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Old Jan 23, 2026 | 02:32 PM
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It is a bargain, I just did the same thing this morning though mine is a 55 with a little more than 9K miles. It was nicely option around 160K sticker. Congrats, enjoy.
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Old Jan 23, 2026 | 03:59 PM
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Congrats on your 55! Here’s mine…
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Old Jan 24, 2026 | 09:29 PM
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Yep, just joined you in this venture, 200k mrsp taken for 107, no ceramic brakes thank god, but every other option. Have a 24 gle53 and 25 G580 purchased new (G at an sig discount) and going to get hosed on those, so really feeling good about this one! Drives absolutely beautifully!
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Old Jan 24, 2026 | 09:58 PM
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Think about the deal the next guy will get!

Nice pickup, enjoy it
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Old Jan 24, 2026 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Viper98912
Think about the deal the next guy will get!

Nice pickup, enjoy it
A great one no doubt. You are correct in alluding to it most certainly not being an investment of any kind. But while I sadly enjoy these toys, I do preferentially enjoy not hemorrhaging. 50k will always better than a 100k loss.
Porsches however don't depreciate as quickly. Neither have the Ferrari's I've owned. When you start asking for 200k+, it's nice to know there will be some protection on the downside.
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Old Jan 25, 2026 | 08:19 AM
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I've seen several CPO R232 SLs come up for sale with carbon ceramic brakes which is a bit of a concern with replacement rotor costs. Does anyone know if downgrading to cast iron rotors just a matter swapping over to them with appropriate brake pads OR is it a more involved process for the R232 SL?
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Old Jan 25, 2026 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Swedishiron
I've seen several CPO R232 SLs come up for sale with carbon ceramic brakes which is a bit of a concern with replacement rotor costs. Does anyone know if downgrading to cast iron rotors just a matter swapping over to them with appropriate brake pads OR is it a more involved process for the R232 SL?
Why would you worry about the cost of replacement rotors when they easily last 100k miles of normal driving?

CCB’s are no-brainers IMO. Zero brake dust and multi piece steel rotors are also quite pricey and last a fraction of the miles.

You will wear out CCB’s with heavy track use and that’s the only time to switch to steels for costs. Nothing that like could happen with a SL anyway.
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Old Jan 25, 2026 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolfman
Why would you worry about the cost of replacement rotors when they easily last 100k miles of normal driving?

CCB’s are no-brainers IMO. Zero brake dust and multi piece steel rotors are also quite pricey and last a fraction of the miles.

You will wear out CCB’s with heavy track use and that’s the only time to switch to steels for costs. Nothing that like could happen with a SL anyway.
You can use ceramic pads with steel rotors and get the same effect if brake dust is the top priority. CCBs still produce about the same amount of brake dust. It just is less visible. The pads still wear at about the same rate and produce dust, but the dust is of a lighter color. As for the rotors, while they theoretically last up to 100k miles, they are prone to chipping and cracking if they get hit by road debris or while changing wheels. Need to be extra careful with the latter. As for the cost of steel rotors, I'm on my third set of rotors and only paid for one replacement. That's because places like FCP Euro have lifetime replacement warranty. You send the worn part back and get full credit for it. The CCBs only pay for themselves if you pay dealer prices for the brakes.
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Old Jan 25, 2026 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolfman
Why would you worry about the cost of replacement rotors when they easily last 100k miles of normal driving?

CCB’s are no-brainers IMO. Zero brake dust and multi piece steel rotors are also quite pricey and last a fraction of the miles.

You will wear out CCB’s with heavy track use and that’s the only time to switch to steels for costs. Nothing that like could happen with a SL anyway.
If properly bedded, when new, and properly heated before normal use, wear is almost negligible. That is to say, of course, I agree with Wolfman.
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Old Jan 26, 2026 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by superswiss
You can use ceramic pads with steel rotors and get the same effect if brake dust is the top priority. CCBs still produce about the same amount of brake dust. It just is less visible. The pads still wear at about the same rate and produce dust, but the dust is of a lighter color. As for the rotors, while they theoretically last up to 100k miles, they are prone to chipping and cracking if they get hit by road debris or while changing wheels. Need to be extra careful with the latter. As for the cost of steel rotors, I'm on my third set of rotors and only paid for one replacement. That's because places like FCP Euro have lifetime replacement warranty. You send the worn part back and get full credit for it. The CCBs only pay for themselves if you pay dealer prices for the brakes.
That's not been my experience. Having used ceramic pads on steels greatly reduced brake dust but still much more than CCB's. You are also wearing off the iron. I also found the bite to be somewhat less. CCB's also have less unsprung weight than steels and if the car (purchased used) already has CCB's on it, it would make zero sense to downgrade. He only paid a fraction of the option to begin with.
They are also not that prone to chipping or cracking. I think you are making this sound like a common occurrence, which it isn't.
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Old Jan 26, 2026 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolfman
That's not been my experience. Having used ceramic pads on steels greatly reduced brake dust but still much more than CCB's. You are also wearing off the iron. I also found the bite to be somewhat less. CCB's also have less unsprung weight than steels and if the car (purchased used) already has CCB's on it, it would make zero sense to downgrade. He only paid a fraction of the option to begin with.
They are also not that prone to chipping or cracking. I think you are making this sound like a common occurrence, which it isn't.
I don't have statistical data for how common it is, so I haven't made any claim on that. What I do know, though, is that from a pure probability standpoint, an impact to a CCB rotor is far more likely to chip or crack it than an iron rotor. How likely it is that you have an impact to the rotor, that's a different question and that's essentially what you are saying, that it is isn't very likely. AMG sure thinks its a real risk though as they have specific advisement on how to change wheels when the car is equipped with CCBs to minimize the risk of the wheel coming in contact with the rotor.

You are of course correct on the unsprung weight point, but I've actually had the opportunity to drive the same cars back to back with and without CCBs. You have to be very good on the track before that starts to make a difference, and for the road it's mostly a way to brag. If unsprung weight is a concern, you should also have lightweight wheels such as the AMG RXC wheels, which I don't believe are available for the SL. I do have those on my C63 and they came on the GT models. I agree with you that if one buys a car with CCBs, downgrading them doesn't make much sense.
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Old Jan 26, 2026 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by superswiss
I don't have statistical data for how common it is, so I haven't made any claim on that. What I do know, though, is that from a pure probability standpoint, an impact to a CCB rotor is far more likely to chip or crack it than an iron rotor. How likely it is that you have an impact to the rotor, that's a different question and that's essentially what you are saying, that it is isn't very likely. AMG sure thinks its a real risk though as they have specific advisement on how to change wheels when the car is equipped with CCBs to minimize the risk of the wheel coming in contact with the rotor.

You are of course correct on the unsprung weight point, but I've actually had the opportunity to drive the same cars back to back with and without CCBs. You have to be very good on the track before that starts to make a difference, and for the road it's mostly a way to brag. If unsprung weight is a concern, you should also have lightweight wheels such as the AMG RXC wheels, which I don't believe are available for the SL. I do have those on my C63 and they came on the GT models. I agree with you that if one buys a car with CCBs, downgrading them doesn't make much sense.
Chipping the rotors for a wheel change is a real thing, especially when some dumbos do it. Good shops use wheel hanger/alignment pins; there are a lot of cars out there with more expensive CCB's. As for unsprung weight, everything makes a difference but it's more apparent with lighter cars and forged wheels of course. But then MB and BMW is known to have some of the heavier forged wheels around.
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Old Jan 26, 2026 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolfman
Chipping the rotors for a wheel change is a real thing, especially when some dumbos do it. Good shops use wheel hanger/alignment pins; there are a lot of cars out there with more expensive CCB's. As for unsprung weight, everything makes a difference but it's more apparent with lighter cars and forged wheels of course. But then MB and BMW is known to have some of the heavier forged wheels around.
I have CCB’s on my F430 and they chip very easily. One little bump from the wheel when you are removing or installing it and a piece of the edge chips off. Wheel alignment pins are a must.
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Old Feb 2, 2026 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by cutandrun
I just bought a 2022 SL63 with less than 9k miles on it for 45% off the original sticker. Some other poor soul took a $90k hit. For that I get a near supercar with ridiculous horsepower and carbon ceramic brakes in a convertible format that I have always been in love with (my 5th softtop). The only big negative on these cars seems to be the battery draw when parked, but this has either been eliminated or mitigated. I left the car 8 days while out of town last week and returned to 50%+ battery charge. I bought it CPO so I have about 20 months warranty should something else be amiss.

I am a previous 911 4S and 911 turbo owner and this car is certainly not as light on its feet, but the power and handling are there. Plus I can get in and out of it without much risk of a back injury 😊.
Just curious where you got you SL and if it had a branded (buyback) title. I see a lot of these online due to the ongoing battery issues and they are well priced, but I'm concerned about the downsides of getting a buyback vehicle. I'd be more confident getting it from an actual MB dealer, but seems like there's a lot of risk/reward with these vehicles.

Are you still enjoying the SL? My wife and I have always wanted a 911 cabrio but I also love the SL's and used to have a 2018 C43 cabrio that I loved. We also own a '20 GLC63s that I don't think my wife will ever give up, so we like the brand. Just concerned about the myriad of battery and electrical issues I've been reading about.

Last edited by abd1; Feb 2, 2026 at 06:01 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2026 | 06:20 PM
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Not a buyback. Bought it CPO from a MB dealer in SoCal.
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Old Feb 2, 2026 | 07:24 PM
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Congrats then, sounds like a good deal. I've seen some '22s listed at about 55-60% of MSRP but often they're lemon buybacks. However, I'm now starting to think that buying the lemon buyback at a significant discount may not be a bad way to go. Especially if you can confirm it was a buyback from the battery drain issue, that it is resolved (sounds like Mercedes finally fixed it with a software update), and you get additional warranty. Sure, resale will hurt with a branded title but if you consider you already got a discount than that's probably ok. Anyway, just thinking out loud. Sounds like your batter issue was resolved.
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Old Feb 3, 2026 | 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by abd1
Congrats then, sounds like a good deal. I've seen some '22s listed at about 55-60% of MSRP but often they're lemon buybacks. However, I'm now starting to think that buying the lemon buyback at a significant discount may not be a bad way to go. Especially if you can confirm it was a buyback from the battery drain issue, that it is resolved (sounds like Mercedes finally fixed it with a software update), and you get additional warranty. Sure, resale will hurt with a branded title but if you consider you already got a discount than that's probably ok. Anyway, just thinking out loud. Sounds like your batter issue was resolved.
I bought my ‘23 SL63 CPO for ~128,000 last year. MSRP was 201,000. Clean title. Had 9,000 miles. Recalls were done. The battery was dead when I picked up from the dealer and I was freaking out and bought a tender and had them hardwire it to the trunk but I’m happy to say the car has been plenty reliable. I can leave the car parked for a week without a tender and it starts up just fine. Just need to make sure to lock it and store the key away.
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Old Mar 8, 2026 | 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by abd1
Just curious where you got you SL and if it had a branded (buyback) title. I see a lot of these online due to the ongoing battery issues and they are well priced, but I'm concerned about the downsides of getting a buyback vehicle. I'd be more confident getting it from an actual MB dealer, but seems like there's a lot of risk/reward with these vehicles.

Are you still enjoying the SL? My wife and I have always wanted a 911 cabrio but I also love the SL's and used to have a 2018 C43 cabrio that I loved. We also own a '20 GLC63s that I don't think my wife will ever give up, so we like the brand. Just concerned about the myriad of battery and electrical issues I've been reading about.
Yeah, I am wondering the same. I am looking at 55s and between MY 2022 vs 2023 there is a significant jump in price.

But I would assume the issues have been resolved in the meantime and even buyback cars should be fine?
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Old Mar 8, 2026 | 04:57 PM
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Bought it CPO from a Mercedes dealer. One owner, no title issues. I pay attention to the battery charge level but can’t say it has been an issue. I was gone for 8 days and the car started no problem. I have paid attention to posts here on the forum: I always double click the lock button and keep the keys in a faraday box (inexpensively available on Amazon, and I always know where my keys are!). I also think recent software updates have helped. The car is a blast to drive. I have had many compliments on the car and color.
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