SL/R107: car hasn't run for 5 years. Plz help.
04-04-2005, 06:21 PM
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car hasn't run for 5 years. Plz help.
Hey everyone.
I just got a 1974 450 SLC from my parents. They have had it for a long time, but there was a problem with something, they didn't know. It was either the waterpump or the thermostat, it started running hot, so they decided not to drive it. It hasn't been driven in about 5 years.
I figured I will have to change the oil and filter before I attempt to fire it up.
Can you guys give me any advice on what type of oil I should put in and any other useful information that will help me not blow up the motor?
I asked the same question in another place, only one guy answered... here is what he said:
Can I use reg fuel injector cleaner? I am kinda nervous about putting ATF fluid into the gas.
What type of spark plug should i get and what's the propper gap for spark plugs for my vehicle?
Should I change ATF/Diff fluid as well, I might as well while i'm at it?
Thanks guys...
I just got a 1974 450 SLC from my parents. They have had it for a long time, but there was a problem with something, they didn't know. It was either the waterpump or the thermostat, it started running hot, so they decided not to drive it. It hasn't been driven in about 5 years.
I figured I will have to change the oil and filter before I attempt to fire it up.
Can you guys give me any advice on what type of oil I should put in and any other useful information that will help me not blow up the motor?
I asked the same question in another place, only one guy answered... here is what he said:
I wish my folks had given me a SLC ,but then it would have been a new car !!
Before you try to start this car,Buy:
new fuel filter,
Oil filter,
aircleaner element
spark plugs
and 5 liters of 50# oil.
Next clean the fuel tank out ,undo the bung under the tank if you can get it out,If you can't,drain the old fuel out via the larger hose that runs to pump.That old fuel will stink like you wont' believeSo don't get it on your skin,and don't smoke around it either.with the fuel tank cleaned out and your new filter in place,put about 5 gals of juice in the tank,with about 250mls of trans fluid.The trans fluid is amazing stuff and will help get rid of gunk in the injection system.
remove the spark plugs.
Clean out the radiator water,there is a bung in the bottom of the radiator.undo that and let it all go.again ,it's noxious stuff .run a hose through the radiator to loosen any crud you may be able to see.
To do it better,I would remove the radiator and get a Radiator shop to clean it.
check all the hoses for hard ,or swollen or just plain tired hoses.
Refill it with plain water for the moment.
I'll bet the batterie is shot after 5 years so plan on buying a quality one ,with exact specs for the car.
Anthing less won't have the guts to run the injection pump and you will be down on performance.
It is always best to change the oil hot,but with your car,i would just drain what you can,but do not forget the oil coooler,it also has a drain bung,next to the radiator it has a hose in the top and one in the bottom.undo the bung and let all the oil go.
Change the oil filter and the air filter.
do it back up and drain the sump.leave the bung out for a bout 15 minutes to ensure all the old oil is gone.Replace the bung,fill with oil and crank the starter until the oil pressure comes up.
Replace the plugs and plug wires and see if it will start.This where a new battery is important.Start the engine with radiator cap off.
Run it ,WITH NO REVVING, until it is hot.Check the water level while the engine is idling.water level should reach the ridge under the cap,check for big bubbles rising through the water,and once the idle has stabilised the water temp should be normal and NO bubles should be visible in the water.
This is where you can find the symptoms of overheating.
if it checks out OK,dump the plain water,run the hose threough the radiator again and refill with Mercedes anti corrosion and anti freeze.
Check your oil level.
Ask your parents if they ever had the timing chain changed,If the answer is No,get it changed as soon as possible.A broken chain will really stuff your day.
Before you try to start this car,Buy:
new fuel filter,
Oil filter,
aircleaner element
spark plugs
and 5 liters of 50# oil.
Next clean the fuel tank out ,undo the bung under the tank if you can get it out,If you can't,drain the old fuel out via the larger hose that runs to pump.That old fuel will stink like you wont' believeSo don't get it on your skin,and don't smoke around it either.with the fuel tank cleaned out and your new filter in place,put about 5 gals of juice in the tank,with about 250mls of trans fluid.The trans fluid is amazing stuff and will help get rid of gunk in the injection system.
remove the spark plugs.
Clean out the radiator water,there is a bung in the bottom of the radiator.undo that and let it all go.again ,it's noxious stuff .run a hose through the radiator to loosen any crud you may be able to see.
To do it better,I would remove the radiator and get a Radiator shop to clean it.
check all the hoses for hard ,or swollen or just plain tired hoses.
Refill it with plain water for the moment.
I'll bet the batterie is shot after 5 years so plan on buying a quality one ,with exact specs for the car.
Anthing less won't have the guts to run the injection pump and you will be down on performance.
It is always best to change the oil hot,but with your car,i would just drain what you can,but do not forget the oil coooler,it also has a drain bung,next to the radiator it has a hose in the top and one in the bottom.undo the bung and let all the oil go.
Change the oil filter and the air filter.
do it back up and drain the sump.leave the bung out for a bout 15 minutes to ensure all the old oil is gone.Replace the bung,fill with oil and crank the starter until the oil pressure comes up.
Replace the plugs and plug wires and see if it will start.This where a new battery is important.Start the engine with radiator cap off.
Run it ,WITH NO REVVING, until it is hot.Check the water level while the engine is idling.water level should reach the ridge under the cap,check for big bubbles rising through the water,and once the idle has stabilised the water temp should be normal and NO bubles should be visible in the water.
This is where you can find the symptoms of overheating.
if it checks out OK,dump the plain water,run the hose threough the radiator again and refill with Mercedes anti corrosion and anti freeze.
Check your oil level.
Ask your parents if they ever had the timing chain changed,If the answer is No,get it changed as soon as possible.A broken chain will really stuff your day.
What type of spark plug should i get and what's the propper gap for spark plugs for my vehicle?
Should I change ATF/Diff fluid as well, I might as well while i'm at it?
Thanks guys...
Last edited by vschinzel; 04-04-2005 at 06:24 PM.
04-04-2005, 07:25 PM
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87 300D
Hi. I agree with most everything he suggests, but probably wouldn't use tranny fluid for injector cleaning. Many older guys, heck I'm not young, but I have read many post on other forum and tranny fluid will work, but specific purpose products such as fuel injector cleaner will probably work better but may cost a little more. No, tranny fluid wont hurt your engine!
He did not mention the thermostat so I'll elaborate a bit. I just replaced mine in my 450SL and although my problem was that it took forever to get up to 80c, a new one resolved the problem I had. My thermostat failed wide open, they can also fail in a closed position and cause overheating. Check the clutch radiator fan as well. If it doesn't engage at designed temp, it will run hot too. Also the temp sensor switches for aux fan if it has one.
A water pump usually fails as a result of a worn seal and they begin to leak out of a weep hole at the bottom of the water pump. Of course the system would have to be pressurized, cap on, and drive it up to full temp then look on the ground under the car for a drip.
Radiators get old and congested over time and being 31 years old may constitute a new one.
Most agree that the jap plugs, NGK, are the best. Don't have the specs, but any auto parts place should have that info.
Yes, if you get everything going and no longer overheating, go for new wires, plugs, rotor, etc. Also, go ahead and change diff oil, I use Mobile One differential oil, also transmission fluid, filter change, including having the torque converter drained too, many miss doing that. Brake fluid flush is necessary too. ................BB
He did not mention the thermostat so I'll elaborate a bit. I just replaced mine in my 450SL and although my problem was that it took forever to get up to 80c, a new one resolved the problem I had. My thermostat failed wide open, they can also fail in a closed position and cause overheating. Check the clutch radiator fan as well. If it doesn't engage at designed temp, it will run hot too. Also the temp sensor switches for aux fan if it has one.
A water pump usually fails as a result of a worn seal and they begin to leak out of a weep hole at the bottom of the water pump. Of course the system would have to be pressurized, cap on, and drive it up to full temp then look on the ground under the car for a drip.
Radiators get old and congested over time and being 31 years old may constitute a new one.
Most agree that the jap plugs, NGK, are the best. Don't have the specs, but any auto parts place should have that info.
Yes, if you get everything going and no longer overheating, go for new wires, plugs, rotor, etc. Also, go ahead and change diff oil, I use Mobile One differential oil, also transmission fluid, filter change, including having the torque converter drained too, many miss doing that. Brake fluid flush is necessary too. ................BB
Last edited by RagTop; 04-04-2005 at 07:35 PM.
04-05-2005, 07:51 AM
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C32AMG
Oil in cyl
I'd make just one more suggestion - when you remove the plugs, pour about 1/2 oz. of oil in each cylinder. Rings may be rusted to the cylinder walls, and adding some oil and letting it set for a few days could save you cracked rings when you crank it up.
04-05-2005, 01:49 PM
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thanks RapidG, I was wondering about that as well... I was hoping that the pistons wouldn't cease, but the oil will prevent that, sounds good. I'm going shopping fro some parts... Thanks guys.
04-06-2005, 07:26 PM
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87 300D
Originally Posted by vschinzel
wait a sec, the car is from 74, it shouldn't have fuel injectors... it's carburated???
Buy a Haines manual, there is one published for the 107, or SLC, 4.5 liter.
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04-07-2005, 03:51 PM
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already done.
I checked under the hood, it IS fuel injected. It has no battery at all, so I'm gonna have to go get a good one.
My dad said that he is sure it will fire right up, he also said that he's pretty sure it will start overheading...
You think I should still drain all the fuel and the other goo?
I checked under the hood, it IS fuel injected. It has no battery at all, so I'm gonna have to go get a good one.
My dad said that he is sure it will fire right up, he also said that he's pretty sure it will start overheading...
You think I should still drain all the fuel and the other goo?
04-07-2005, 04:01 PM
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2000 E320 Sedan
Replace oil and filter, airfilter, new battery, check anitfreez. Disconnect the hose from Radiator "The one going into the water pump" and add antifreez in the hose to go to the water pump. Start it. If started and still over heated, replcase the thermostat, check cooling fan, if still over heats, replace the radiator. It shoul not after that
04-11-2005, 07:41 PM
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87 300D
Originally Posted by vschinzel
thanks for all the help guys. I'm still looking for all the parts, I'll keep you guys posted on what happened with the car.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
Try........ SASPOnline.com Smitty's Auto service.. They have the lowest prices on the internet. I buy all my parts from them and they are super. I usually get my parts 1 to 3 days UPS.
