SL/SLC-Class (R107) 1971-1989 : 250SL, 280SL, 450 SL, 380 SLC, 450 SL, 380 SL, 560 SL

SL/R107: Won't idle more than a few minutes

Old Feb 11, 2019 | 09:40 PM
  #1  
Riggmaster's Avatar
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From: Ewa Beach, Hawaii
1975 450SL, 1982 380SL, 1995 SL320, 2004 SL500, 2012 C250
Won't idle more than a few minutes

Have a 1982 380SL I picked up after having set around for several years. After finally getting it started, new gas, plugs, distributor cap and wires, it will start, but then stall.

Car starts, idles, fuel pump makes a loud buzzing type sound, the engine begins to stumble then stalls. It will stay running if I hold the accelerator through its "rough surging" periods. These rough periods last about 15-20 seconds, then it will idle by itself again until the next rough period. This happens even if I bypass the fuel pump relay.

New fuel pump, fuel filter, accumulator, warm up regulator. Rebuilt fuel distributor. All fuel lines, both to distributor and return lines, have been blown with compressed air to ensure no blockage.

I've spent close to a year on this issue, even with the help of mechanic friends. I'm lost.

Last edited by Riggmaster; Feb 11, 2019 at 09:45 PM. Reason: Typo
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Old Apr 21, 2019 | 07:19 AM
  #2  
FRANK N's Avatar
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From: NC, USA
1987 560SL, 2007 SL550, 2012 E350, 2010 c300
87 560Sl stalling when reaching operating temperature

I have 1987 560sl, 72k, perfectly maintained. I have a stalling issue. from a cold start the card idles perfectly (or runs) until reaching operating temp (80c) at which time it stops and will not restart until the car sits several hours and is completely cold again. Replaced: fuel pump relay, distributor cap, rotor, crank position sensor...no change. It appears to be losing spark at the time time it shuts off....STUMPED. Any help/suggestions appreciated
Thanks fellow Benz lovers.
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Old Apr 21, 2019 | 01:00 PM
  #3  
Riggmaster's Avatar
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From: Ewa Beach, Hawaii
1975 450SL, 1982 380SL, 1995 SL320, 2004 SL500, 2012 C250
Originally Posted by FRANK N
I have 1987 560sl, 72k, perfectly maintained. I have a stalling issue. from a cold start the card idles perfectly (or runs) until reaching operating temp (80c) at which time it stops and will not restart until the car sits several hours and is completely cold again. Replaced: fuel pump relay, distributor cap, rotor, crank position sensor...no change. It appears to be losing spark at the time time it shuts off....STUMPED. Any help/suggestions appreciated
Thanks fellow Benz lovers.
My problem with not running, was a blocked return tube going into the fuel tank. After I’ve solved that, I could not start it at operating temperature until after a few hours also. I was told to change the crank position sensor. Amazingly, that did the trick.
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Old Apr 21, 2019 | 01:35 PM
  #4  
FRANK N's Avatar
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From: NC, USA
1987 560SL, 2007 SL550, 2012 E350, 2010 c300
new Ccrank Pos Sensor didn't do the trick...now looking at EZL ignition control...ufortunately
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Old Apr 21, 2019 | 01:49 PM
  #5  
Riggmaster's Avatar
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From: Ewa Beach, Hawaii
1975 450SL, 1982 380SL, 1995 SL320, 2004 SL500, 2012 C250
Good luck
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Old Apr 23, 2019 | 08:22 PM
  #6  
myway's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Middle of Nowhere, USA
450SL
Originally Posted by Riggmaster
My problem with not running, was a blocked return tube going into the fuel tank. After I’ve solved that, I could not start it at operating temperature until after a few hours also. I was told to change the crank position sensor. Amazingly, that did the trick.
On an '82 380SL? The only thing close to a CPS is at the front of the engine connected to the diagnostic socket. It doesn't have anything to do with running.
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Old Jun 27, 2020 | 05:22 PM
  #7  
FRANK N's Avatar
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From: NC, USA
1987 560SL, 2007 SL550, 2012 E350, 2010 c300
Had the new Crank Position Sensor tested and it was faulty. Ordered a replacement from Germany and it solved the start/stall issue, but immediately developed a miss/sputter after driving for 45 minutes or so. It would run perfectly around town or on the road for about 45 minutes after a cold start. Indy was stumped as well as every mechanic, website I spoke with. Today I adjusted the fuel/air mix 1/4 turn clockwise (Rich) and drove it non-stop for 2 sessions of 70 miles each.... no miss, no sputter.
Before adjusting air/fuel I checked my exhaust to see if the inside of the pipes were oily, indicating rich condition and found them to be dry, non-sooty. Increasing the richness has made it smooth as silk.


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Old Sep 30, 2020 | 09:39 AM
  #8  
turbo 50's Avatar
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From: Southern CA
500SL 450 SL 230 SL E320
Its in the fuel injection system not ignition system

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