MrMischief

With 85,000 miles. Seems to run well, clean, silver and blue interior with a new soft top. Little used car lot says its from a local owner. I don’t know the first thing about this yr and 3.8 motor. Are these a dog with fleas (in disguise?).
Someone please educate me, I’m looking for an inexpensive convertible to ride for a few years without nickel and dimming me to death. This dealer is asking $6,000.

Thank you for your time!
Rich

MrMischief

While reading through the old posts I noticed that several people asked the same question only different ways. I was wondering which SL do you think is the best looking?

Max Blast

Oh, it’s going to nickel and dime to death and eat your lunch too.

But six grand is an entry point to pay six grand a year in maintenance (unless you viciously DIY everything) and that ain’t that bad.

unless you’re able to do a lot of things yourself; to include rebuilding the fuel system - then don’t.

MrMischief

Max, I have done many difficult repairs myself over the past 45 yrs with older domestic cars from the 60s and 70s, but that rarely exists anymore. I still have a 2 post Mohawk auto lift in my garage and do the family cars. AC charging, brakes, lube or oil and filter changes are easy, Can't do anything when it’s in the 90s outside.

I would be happy to just get 2 years of tooling around with the top down on occasions, but anymore that is difficult to do without spending big bucks. Are these cars prone to expensive repairs?
Then there is my attitude towards driving old cars I seem to be alone in the universe I feel an ever increasing feeling that old cars are a “pita.” Hard to steer, brakes that take too long to stop and unbearably uncomfortable seating. Windows that fog up and not so easy to clear, wipers that wind float at highway speeds. Oil spots everywhere you parked and the wife wants to start WWIII over it.

billygoat33

Plan on a couple thousand $ in delayed maintenance items. If it runs and drives, then you can probably enjoy the car( and you will) while you pick away at long term items. There is nothing so much fun as cruising on country roads with the top down, listening to the birds sing. Do get a wind deflector, they aren’t cheap, but extend the comfort level for temperature and noise.

MrMischief

A few more questions please - if you don’t mind.

1. Years are best in the older pagoda top SLs?
2.. Is that 3.8 liter engine any good?
3. What is the biggest expense in this car? What is impossible to get?
4. Is there any recommendations for where to get parts?
5. If you had to bet there is something that could be bad on this car, what would you look at besides rubber and plastic parts needing replacement.
6. What years have interchangeable hard tops?

Thank you,
Rich

billygoat33

We have a 1986 560SL, really no experience with other models. The people I've spoken with at Section shows seem to like their 380's. When I need parts, I just start Googling, the Classic center is fairly dependable source, but for 3rd party parts the internet is your best friend. Some of the "off brand parts are actually supply Mercedes. The rumors I heard say when the worldwide supply of a particular part is gone, Mercedes will have more made. Of course the price is reflected in the rarity of the parts. Very few of the cruise controls work, although there are specialists who repair them. I've bought parts from most of the vendors, fit is usually not a problem, but longevity may be. #5 Switches are where I have found the most problems. The camshaft chains, tensioners and guides are a popular worry, the guides are a nylon or plastic that being bathed in oil will fail without regard for mileage. Owners of the 380s would know better. If I didn't answer one of your points, I just don't know. Happy motoring.

Max Blast

The pagodas are $200,000 cars.
The 107s are midpoint around 15 grand.

so it’s so much more reasonable entry point and pretty much a throwaway car nobody’s gonna miss a 380 SL really. I can’t comment on best engine other than that is a smaller displacement smogged up Aluminum V8.

I have a 4 1/2 L cast-iron boat anchor and all the 107 ever does is just ooze along, regardless of what’s upfront. Minor exception being the 5.0 rally Homo specials.

you sound like you’ve got all the gear and attitude to be able to do this yourself, so I say just jump in it. what goes wrong in this is fuel tank, if it’s at for a while, it’ll be rusty and then when you try to start it fuel pump will try to chew on that rust and shoot it through the injectors.

so check for That before you drive this car any great distance to check and replace filters and be ready to rebuild the entire fuel system.

Brand new repro tanks are available for about $300, fuel distributors, can be rebuilt with your tools, but injector buckets are starting to become pretty rare. Other than that parts
are pricey as you’re buying them from a Mercedes specific reseller.

so it makes more sense to throw these pricey parts onto a pagoda, except those parts are even pricier.

but like I said, six grand is your ticket of entry to go hunt for parts that are becoming unobtainium.

But you’ll have fun doing that.

MrMischief

Can anyone tell if the VIN shows what came from the factory? WDBBA45A0CB016513. Do these cars have AC?

MrMischief

Forget it, I’m too tall for that car. Ridiculous.

I learned so much about these cars. I could try on a SLC or C107 instead of this R107.

AlterSchinken

I got my '85 for $6k back in 2018, have put approx $8k into it all in since. Probably half of this was required, the rest just because it is a hobby. This includes a new soft top and new tires, and a complete brake system overhaul.

1. For the 380 the best years are '83 - '85 since the engine has the double row timing chain and the climate control system is better and more reliable. many 81-82 cars had the double row chain system retrofitted however.
2. The 3.8 is excellent except for the ill fated decision to use a single row timing chain in the US cars (reduced friction for better fuel economy). I get 20+ mpg all the time and unless you are in very mountainous terrain the power is adequate.
3. Biggest expense depends on if you will do the work or not. If you do not then everything is a big expense and unless you find someone familiar with the car risky as well. BOSCH K-Jet fuel system components are probably the most expensive individual parts, but luckily still fairly readily available. Mechanically these cars are similar and share many parts with the W123 and W114 so in general most mechanical items are still available if you are OK with aftermarket parts (Febi, Meyle, etc...). Trim parts, interior parts etc can be hard to find.
4. The dealer still has some parts, aftermarket suppliers are Autohaus AZ, Pelican Parts, Parts Geek, Rock Auto, FCP Euro, and other online parts houses.
5 The first thing to check is the condition of the timing chain, chain guides, and tensioner. The plastic guides become brittle with age and can brake, if pieces get caught in the chain it can jump, and valves hit the pistons (interference engine). Vitally important if the engine still has the single row timing chain. The clock probably doesn't work but is easily fixed of you are comfortable with soldering. The climate control on the early 380s is an abomination, but there are retrofit kits that do away with the problematic servo and restore heat function.
6. The hard top is unchanged across the entire model production range - 1972 to 1989. All interchangeable.

Max Blast

In an SLC, you can install passenger seat rails on the drivers side to get extra legroom. you can’t do that in the SL because the seatbelt offer upper prevents further rearward travel.

But you’re right it is criminal how cramped the driving position is for how “large “of a car it is.

AlterSchinken

I am 6'4" and yes it is a bit cramped. I installed a 355mm steering wheel with a 12mm offset spacer, this mage a huge difference in getting in and out of the car and also greatly improved the handling feel. I can also now right foot brake, couldn't do that with the original large wheel. With size 13 feet I also opened up the cardboard cover above the gas pedal to add some extra room. Overall now I am pretty comfortable, not sure I would want to put in a 4-5 hour stint though.

Max Blast

thank you for posting up those wheel specs. That is exactly what I wanna do with mine. Much appreciated..