SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: The Best Way to FURTHER Lower my SL55 (part II)
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2007 Porsche 997 GT3
The Best Way to FURTHER Lower my SL55 (part II)
A Quick Synopsis
Well, this is a continuation of this thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-sl63-amg-sl65-amg-r230/129828-best-way-i-found-lower-my-sl55-before-after-pictures.html
Unfortunately I had to start a new thread in order to separate my groups of photos and decrease my bandwidth usage at Photobucket.
In the above thread, I demonstrated how I lowered my SL55 using a Mercedes Dealership in Atlanta. They lowered the car using the Star Diagnostics computer.
Questions are Raised
It was mentioned in the previous thread, that perhaps lowering modules were still a better option in order to lower the car ever lower than I had. It was also postulated that perhaps the reason the dealership didn't lower my car any further was due to error codes induced by the lowering.
Finally, it was mentioned that my car didn't look that much lower than before.
This point, I agreed with. The remaining first two points were yet to be seen.
My Response
So, I called up the good folks at Atlanta Classic Cars and told them I would like the car even lower. They said, "no problem" bring her in. When I did, they took me back into the work area. (Bright, spotless clean floors, all the technicians worked with gloves on, and my car seat was covered in plastic ) The tech working on my car asked me to show him how low I would like the car. He told me it took a little tweaking to get the car's computer to recognize the new height range settings, but he was sure he could do it.
My initial Impression
Look at the picture below:
You may notice that the car now looks lower than it did in my previous thread. However, I was a little disappointed when I first saw my car after it was lowered. I could have sworn I asked the rear end to be even lower.
That's when the tech was quick to explain that the Mercedes suspension would raise up about an inch when the car was off. It would lower a bunch with the ignition on, and get to the lowest driving height with the car in drive.
Pics of wife forced to sit in car with car in "Drive"
So, my wife was gracious enough to allow me to take some pics of the car in its natural driving height. I definitely think its low enough now. NO rubbing issues, NO error codes.
My Conclusion
The purpose of this thread was to serve as a reference for future owners who were looking at different avenues to lower their cars. After doing extensive research, and after my own personal experience, it is my humble opinion that having the car lowered via the Mercedes computer is the best method.
It is a modification performed by the dealership and does not void the warranty. It is relatively easily performed without any modifications to the wiring of the car, therefore it is easily reversible. It allows the car to be lowered to a very low riding height without any "issues". And finally, it costs approximately 1/3rd to 1/4th the cost of most lowering modules plus installation.
The trick is finding a dealership who has the "know how" AND is willing to do this mod.
.
Well, this is a continuation of this thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-sl63-amg-sl65-amg-r230/129828-best-way-i-found-lower-my-sl55-before-after-pictures.html
Unfortunately I had to start a new thread in order to separate my groups of photos and decrease my bandwidth usage at Photobucket.
In the above thread, I demonstrated how I lowered my SL55 using a Mercedes Dealership in Atlanta. They lowered the car using the Star Diagnostics computer.
Questions are Raised
It was mentioned in the previous thread, that perhaps lowering modules were still a better option in order to lower the car ever lower than I had. It was also postulated that perhaps the reason the dealership didn't lower my car any further was due to error codes induced by the lowering.
Finally, it was mentioned that my car didn't look that much lower than before.
This point, I agreed with. The remaining first two points were yet to be seen.
My Response
So, I called up the good folks at Atlanta Classic Cars and told them I would like the car even lower. They said, "no problem" bring her in. When I did, they took me back into the work area. (Bright, spotless clean floors, all the technicians worked with gloves on, and my car seat was covered in plastic ) The tech working on my car asked me to show him how low I would like the car. He told me it took a little tweaking to get the car's computer to recognize the new height range settings, but he was sure he could do it.
My initial Impression
Look at the picture below:
You may notice that the car now looks lower than it did in my previous thread. However, I was a little disappointed when I first saw my car after it was lowered. I could have sworn I asked the rear end to be even lower.
That's when the tech was quick to explain that the Mercedes suspension would raise up about an inch when the car was off. It would lower a bunch with the ignition on, and get to the lowest driving height with the car in drive.
Pics of wife forced to sit in car with car in "Drive"
So, my wife was gracious enough to allow me to take some pics of the car in its natural driving height. I definitely think its low enough now. NO rubbing issues, NO error codes.
My Conclusion
The purpose of this thread was to serve as a reference for future owners who were looking at different avenues to lower their cars. After doing extensive research, and after my own personal experience, it is my humble opinion that having the car lowered via the Mercedes computer is the best method.
It is a modification performed by the dealership and does not void the warranty. It is relatively easily performed without any modifications to the wiring of the car, therefore it is easily reversible. It allows the car to be lowered to a very low riding height without any "issues". And finally, it costs approximately 1/3rd to 1/4th the cost of most lowering modules plus installation.
The trick is finding a dealership who has the "know how" AND is willing to do this mod.
.
#4
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I have to say, thats a great way of having gone about it. I guess the trick would be to talk the dealer into doing it during pre-sales. Just before you sign the contract and hand over the cash.
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#8
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E 63S Wagon Renntech, E55 Renntech, SL65, SL 55 030, ML, bunch of old ones--they come, they go...
I knw this is an old thread, but
Docdan, if you see this, would you PM me? I'm going to ACC tomorrow and I wanted to ask you a couple questions. Thanks if you can...
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08 ML350, 2011 E550 Cab
DocDan: I just noticed you are from Columbia, SC.. Funny thing. I live in Greenville and Charleston, so i pass through all the time (not in the SL though)..
I wonder how many others SL owners online live around us. It would be great to get a meet together...
-Nick
I wonder how many others SL owners online live around us. It would be great to get a meet together...
-Nick
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W124 E500 (RIP), W211 E350 (Sold), R230 SL55 (Current)
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'10 MB E63, '08 ML550 ('05 E55, '05 SL55, '08 E63 GONE)
#17
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I think the most popular way to lower these cars has got to be the lowering links. At a cost of about $300 its the cheapest.
You can lower or raise the car all you want. As opposed to taking it to a dealer and paying $500 every time. Or paying $2000+ for a module.
You can lower or raise the car all you want. As opposed to taking it to a dealer and paying $500 every time. Or paying $2000+ for a module.
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Eurocharged 2004 E500, Eurocharged ECU/TCU 2005 SL600, 2010 Caddy SwaggerWagon
For the E500, it was $125.00 for the alignment, and $50.00 for the lowering.
For the SL600, I had a coupon for the alignment $99.00, but I left a $50.00 bill in the center console for the alignment guy to lower it.