SL55 AMG, SL63 AMG, SL65 AMG (R230) 2002 - 2011 (2003 US for SL55 and 2004 for the SL65)

SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: Question about the IC pump installation

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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 08:56 PM
  #1  
charles pearson's Avatar
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From: Dinwiddie, VA
SL55, CL55, Range Rover, Lexus LX470
Question about the IC pump installation

I have just replaced my IC pump with a Johnson CM30. The wiring on the Johnson pump has a neg and a Pos wire, but on the OEM pump, it has a Brown and a red wire with White striping. Am I correct about assuming that the brown is the Neg and that the red is a pos? Also just to make sure that I am replacing the correct pump, the OEM IC pump is the extremely large one while as the Johnson is quite smaller, correct? My car is still running like crap and I am second guessing myself with the wiring.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 10:29 PM
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shardul's Avatar
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2003 W211 E55, 2003 W220 S600
wiring is correct.
Did you bleed the system after installing the cm30 pump
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 10:31 PM
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2003 W211 E55, 2003 W220 S600
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-pump-e55.html

pretty much the same for your car
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 10:38 PM
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charles pearson's Avatar
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Originally Posted by shardul
No, I was told that as long as I didn't waste too much coolant, that there was no need to bleed the system. Maybe that's why she is running crappy. Besides, i'm told that bleeding the system is a rather complex of a job.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 10:59 PM
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You need to bleed the system, its not complicated. Follow the DIY link above.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 11:56 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by lauer87
You need to bleed the system, its not complicated. Follow the DIY link above.
Thanks Brother.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 08:00 AM
  #7  
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if you will put a small clamp just below the hose y coming out of the s/c and tighten it to collapse the hose approx 3/4 of the way it will force the air into the resovoir tank. as for the wiring if you look at the oem pump the + and - are marked. i tore the old pump apart and sodered. the oem to the new cm30 pump. plug and play! while you are purging your car , start the engine let warm up. then rev the engine to 2000 rpm and the pump will kick in. dont let the size fool you. the oem pump pushes approx. 1.2 gpm the cm30 pushes 4.7 gpm!
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 10:10 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by 320 dreamer
if you will put a small clamp just below the hose y coming out of the s/c and tighten it to collapse the hose approx 3/4 of the way it will force the air into the resovoir tank. as for the wiring if you look at the oem pump the + and - are marked. i tore the old pump apart and sodered. the oem to the new cm30 pump. plug and play! while you are purging your car , start the engine let warm up. then rev the engine to 2000 rpm and the pump will kick in. dont let the size fool you. the oem pump pushes approx. 1.2 gpm the cm30 pushes 4.7 gpm!
Ok, thanks will do.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 12:33 PM
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I used one of those hand held battery jumpers to run the pump and bleed before I put everything back together. Then after 50 miles or so re-bleed the system. You actually have to put your foot on the brake and rev the car to around 2k rpm's to get the pump going.

Sometimes it's easier to see if the pump is running if you disconnect the hose that runs from the upper IC lines to the reservoir (clamp it) and hook up one of your own. That way you can see if the coolant is running. Run the hose to the reservoir tank. The coolant won't flow out of the hose until you half clamp the hose further down the line.

I know it sounds complicated but its very easy. It's just hard to explain without pictures.

Last edited by FLSL55; Jun 25, 2009 at 11:04 PM.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 10:47 PM
  #10  
charles pearson's Avatar
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Originally Posted by FLSL55
I used one of those hand held battery jumpers to run the pump and bleed before I put everything back together. Then after 50 miles or so start the car. You actually have to put your foot on the brake and rev the car to around 2k rpm's to get the pump going.

Sometimes it's easier to see if the pump is running if you disconnect the hose that goes to the reservoir (clamp it) and hook up one of your own. That way you can see the coolant running. Run the hose to the reservoir tank. The coolant won't flow out of the hose until you half clamp the hose further down the line.

I know it sounds complicated but its very easy. It's just hard to explain without pictures.
Yeah, I managed to complete the job, I can add this task to my list of things to remember for the future, or better yet help someone else out. I tell you, this forum is a great place to learn technical attributes about our cars.
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