SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: Question about the IC pump installation
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SL55, CL55, Range Rover, Lexus LX470
Question about the IC pump installation
I have just replaced my IC pump with a Johnson CM30. The wiring on the Johnson pump has a neg and a Pos wire, but on the OEM pump, it has a Brown and a red wire with White striping. Am I correct about assuming that the brown is the Neg and that the red is a pos? Also just to make sure that I am replacing the correct pump, the OEM IC pump is the extremely large one while as the Johnson is quite smaller, correct? My car is still running like crap and I am second guessing myself with the wiring.
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if you will put a small clamp just below the hose y coming out of the s/c and tighten it to collapse the hose approx 3/4 of the way it will force the air into the resovoir tank. as for the wiring if you look at the oem pump the + and - are marked. i tore the old pump apart and sodered. the oem to the new cm30 pump. plug and play! while you are purging your car , start the engine let warm up. then rev the engine to 2000 rpm and the pump will kick in. dont let the size fool you. the oem pump pushes approx. 1.2 gpm the cm30 pushes 4.7 gpm!
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#8
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if you will put a small clamp just below the hose y coming out of the s/c and tighten it to collapse the hose approx 3/4 of the way it will force the air into the resovoir tank. as for the wiring if you look at the oem pump the + and - are marked. i tore the old pump apart and sodered. the oem to the new cm30 pump. plug and play! while you are purging your car , start the engine let warm up. then rev the engine to 2000 rpm and the pump will kick in. dont let the size fool you. the oem pump pushes approx. 1.2 gpm the cm30 pushes 4.7 gpm!
#9
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I used one of those hand held battery jumpers to run the pump and bleed before I put everything back together. Then after 50 miles or so re-bleed the system. You actually have to put your foot on the brake and rev the car to around 2k rpm's to get the pump going.
Sometimes it's easier to see if the pump is running if you disconnect the hose that runs from the upper IC lines to the reservoir (clamp it) and hook up one of your own. That way you can see if the coolant is running. Run the hose to the reservoir tank. The coolant won't flow out of the hose until you half clamp the hose further down the line.
I know it sounds complicated but its very easy. It's just hard to explain without pictures.
Sometimes it's easier to see if the pump is running if you disconnect the hose that runs from the upper IC lines to the reservoir (clamp it) and hook up one of your own. That way you can see if the coolant is running. Run the hose to the reservoir tank. The coolant won't flow out of the hose until you half clamp the hose further down the line.
I know it sounds complicated but its very easy. It's just hard to explain without pictures.
Last edited by FLSL55; 06-25-2009 at 11:04 PM.
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I used one of those hand held battery jumpers to run the pump and bleed before I put everything back together. Then after 50 miles or so start the car. You actually have to put your foot on the brake and rev the car to around 2k rpm's to get the pump going.
Sometimes it's easier to see if the pump is running if you disconnect the hose that goes to the reservoir (clamp it) and hook up one of your own. That way you can see the coolant running. Run the hose to the reservoir tank. The coolant won't flow out of the hose until you half clamp the hose further down the line.
I know it sounds complicated but its very easy. It's just hard to explain without pictures.
Sometimes it's easier to see if the pump is running if you disconnect the hose that goes to the reservoir (clamp it) and hook up one of your own. That way you can see the coolant running. Run the hose to the reservoir tank. The coolant won't flow out of the hose until you half clamp the hose further down the line.
I know it sounds complicated but its very easy. It's just hard to explain without pictures.