SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: low mph in 1/4 for modded sl65
I'd wager that your I/C pump is bad, even though it was just replaced. Or, they didn't properly bleed the I/C circuit, when they intalled your new pump.
114 mph is pitiful for a modded 65.
I'd hold off on upgrading the h/e because you're not even running stock mph yet. I'd have the dealer bleed the system and check the pump.
A quick a dirty way to see if your pump is workin is to bring the car up to temp, and have it idle. Press the schrader valve at the top/rear of
the engine and see of coolant shoots out.
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When you got the tune done, did your car 'feel' faster to you?
Since the dealer just replaced the pump, I'd start there first. Why did they replace it, anyway? Was it to troubleshoot this exact issue?
I was running 113-114 mph at the track last weekend....... This thoroughly disgusted me as the car has ran 124 mph in the past. I opened the hood and noticed that the dealership that had recently done work on the car didn't tighten two clamps on the boosted side of the driver's side intercooler.... I tightened the clamps and immediately ran 120 mph.
Might check all the clamps.
I was running 113-114 mph at the track last weekend....... This thoroughly disgusted me as the car has ran 124 mph in the past. I opened the hood and noticed that the dealership that had recently done work on the car didn't tighten two clamps on the boosted side of the driver's side intercooler.... I tightened the clamps and immediately ran 120 mph.
Might check all the clamps.
If the engine was hot, and the coolant was cool, it sounds like the pump is doing it's job.
Hmmmmm, I wonder......
When the dealer replaced the pump for "lack of power", is there any chance that they reflashed your ECU? Many times, one of the steps for dealers to diagnose/repair power issues, is to reflash the ECU to their latest and greatest.
Jerry will retune your ECU for free, so it might be worth it to send it out to him, and let him take a look. He'll be able to tell instantly, if it has his tune or a stock tune on it.
Boost: Peaked at 22.68psi, bottom of 3rd gear and trailed off to 16.38 at the top of 3rd.
IAT: Peaked at 127.4F at the end of the run.
I even flashed the car to stock and logged to make sure the tune was "working", I confirmed that the tune did in fact raise boost and was accepted by the ECU.
Only thing haven't checked yet is Fuel Rail Pressure...that was Marcin's suggestion. He said the static FP should be 60-61psi. If that's low, obviously, it'll rob HP.
*edit* why bother starting a new thread...I have an S65, but we share motors...
Last edited by Philly Single; Nov 29, 2010 at 10:28 AM.
Hmmmmm, I wonder......
When the dealer replaced the pump for "lack of power", is there any chance that they reflashed your ECU? Many times, one of the steps for dealers to diagnose/repair power issues, is to reflash the ECU to their latest and greatest.
Jerry will retune your ECU for free, so it might be worth it to send it out to him, and let him take a look. He'll be able to tell instantly, if it has his tune or a stock tune on it.
Last edited by SS2Z06; Nov 29, 2010 at 02:14 PM.
I'm running out of ideas. So, we don't think it's the I/C pump, boost leak or just bad track conditions. We know the dealer didn't flash it back to stock, because ECU was done after it left the dealer for performance issues.
Wait....! You're stating that you had the car in for service, for what felt like a decrease in HP, before the car was tuned by Eurocharged? Did the dealer validate your claim and diagnose the problem, or did they just blindly throw a part (I/C pump) at the problem? What was the dealer's conclusion?
Honestly, I'd have Jerry flash your car back to stock with one of his remote tuners, and have the dealer successfully diagnose and repair your issue with a stock ECU file. Once your back to what your stock numbers should be, then have Jerry re-flash it.
What you don't want to do is keeping introducing new factors into the equation while troubleshooting. You'll end up just chasing a red herring.
You know....as I'm typing this, I just had an epiphany. You should PM user Marcus Frost, as I believe his SL65 also had a very mysterious loss of power. It took months to figure out, and in the end, it was something very simple IIRC. I'm having a hard time remembering what the issue was, exactly.
Either PM him, or search his posts.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-airboxes.html
Pay particular attention to post #15
117 was his best trap while most of his traps were 114. There's something going on here, without a doubt.
I think that with these cars they are so advanced that even the smallest detail gone wrong can lead to sub-optimal performance. Start modding and that adds more layers of uncertainty.
I have read about problems tuning numerous V12s using a few different tuning companies TUNED FILES because the ECU ,Traction Control and Trans Control see way too much power and the cars computers often FIGHT BACK and dial down the timing/boost. There have also been issues with part throttle applications where the computers think the boost is too high at a certain throttle position and this can cause the ECU to shut down momentarily.
In one 2007 S600 the owner said his car would run AMAZING when it was 75+ degrees plus ambient temp... But when it cooled down below 70 degrees and the air got thick the ECU/TCU would see too much boost and randomly and instantly open the waste gate causing the car to buck violently. The bucking would only happen intermittently sometimes three times in a day then no problems for a week or more then it would start bucking again out of no-where. Needless to say diagnosing the issue was very very difficult.
Last edited by EXECMALIBU; Nov 30, 2010 at 06:35 PM.






