and your track numbers seem to agree 
SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: Tune and Filter Only SL65 Dyno Results 708HP/989lb/ft on 93 Octane!
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From: Dublin, OH
SL65
Tune and Filter Only SL65 Dyno Results 708HP/989lb/ft on 93 Octane!
Despite non stop rain we hit the dyno with the SL65 today to see the improvements made via MHP’s v3 CDT (ECU & TCU Tuning) vs stock with BMC filters, and here are the results. I used the same dyno as when I was stock (with filters then too), same brand of 93 octane (Mobil), 4th gear, and SAE correction factor with smoothing set at 5.
Best pull of 567rwhp/791rwtq SAE
Backed up with 566rwhp/778rwtq SAE
Then 563rwhp/790rwtq SAE
Assuming 20% drivetrain loss that equates to 708HP and 989lb/ft at the crank with just tuning and filters on pump gas. I'm quite pleased and absolutely cannot wait to try a dedicated 100 octane tune now!
Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEYlePPmboU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZx9TBELEwE
Picture showing a nice safe Air Fuel Ratio:
Graphs:
MHP v3 CDT vs Stock:
Now the question is what to do next, remove the cats or go with a dedicated race gas tune?
Best pull of 567rwhp/791rwtq SAE
Backed up with 566rwhp/778rwtq SAE
Then 563rwhp/790rwtq SAE
Assuming 20% drivetrain loss that equates to 708HP and 989lb/ft at the crank with just tuning and filters on pump gas. I'm quite pleased and absolutely cannot wait to try a dedicated 100 octane tune now!
Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEYlePPmboU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZx9TBELEwE
Picture showing a nice safe Air Fuel Ratio:
Graphs:
MHP v3 CDT vs Stock:
Now the question is what to do next, remove the cats or go with a dedicated race gas tune?
Last edited by JHDavis; Feb 21, 2011 at 08:58 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 8,137
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From: Maryland
Eurocharged 2004 E500, Eurocharged ECU/TCU 2005 SL600, 2010 Caddy SwaggerWagon
Great gains!
Couple things....
Don't read too much into the actual number. There's just no real way to tell actual BHP short of an engine dyno. But it's more important to pay attention to the gains, and your gains look great.
Drivtrain loss is closer to 18% on these cars, not 20%. But even still, that would depend on the type of dyno.
Which leads me to next question. What type of dyno was it? And how did you pick up the RPM lead for torque?
One final point. You're AFRs look great! Hard to tell with the scaling, but it looks like you're just a hair over 11.0. Do you remember the number? I was right around 11.9, so it looks like you have a safe tune, although one would need a looksie at timing before making that statement. Assuming timing is good, there appears to have been some left on the table. Once you get your cooling mods, Andy should be able to squeeze more out of her.
,
So, great segue into your question. I believe that cooling mods and intake are of the most importance on the V12TTs, if you're looking for huge power. You might want to hold off for a minute though. Enjoy the car how she is for a while and once you get 'used' to the new power, then upgrade. I just might be working on a little something, with a sponsor on here, that will be of interest to you, in a few weeks.
The cats on these cars are the size of beer kegs. Replacing with smaller race cats will save weight, and allow you to go with a 3" downpipe and exhaust all the way back to your muffler-less exhaust. And you'll want to remove those rear mufflers. Trust me.
I'd only go with a race gas tune, after you've exhausted cooling, intake and weight saving mods. Just my opinion though....
Couple things....
Don't read too much into the actual number. There's just no real way to tell actual BHP short of an engine dyno. But it's more important to pay attention to the gains, and your gains look great.
Drivtrain loss is closer to 18% on these cars, not 20%. But even still, that would depend on the type of dyno.
Which leads me to next question. What type of dyno was it? And how did you pick up the RPM lead for torque?
One final point. You're AFRs look great! Hard to tell with the scaling, but it looks like you're just a hair over 11.0. Do you remember the number? I was right around 11.9, so it looks like you have a safe tune, although one would need a looksie at timing before making that statement. Assuming timing is good, there appears to have been some left on the table. Once you get your cooling mods, Andy should be able to squeeze more out of her.
,So, great segue into your question. I believe that cooling mods and intake are of the most importance on the V12TTs, if you're looking for huge power. You might want to hold off for a minute though. Enjoy the car how she is for a while and once you get 'used' to the new power, then upgrade. I just might be working on a little something, with a sponsor on here, that will be of interest to you, in a few weeks.
The cats on these cars are the size of beer kegs. Replacing with smaller race cats will save weight, and allow you to go with a 3" downpipe and exhaust all the way back to your muffler-less exhaust. And you'll want to remove those rear mufflers. Trust me.
I'd only go with a race gas tune, after you've exhausted cooling, intake and weight saving mods. Just my opinion though....
Last edited by Benz-O-Rama; Feb 21, 2011 at 09:22 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Dublin, OH
SL65
Thanks!
I'm new to the 65 scene but an old man as far as performance cars go. I don't put much stake in dynos period, I'm a track guy, but the numbers seem to go along with my track results so who's to say. Again my stock C6 Z06 put down 438rwhp on this same dyno.
Dyno Jet 248 and we used an optical pickup. I don't know of another way with a 65? We just remove the underpan and fiddle with the pickup for 30 minutes before we find a spot where it doesn't whack the fan or the car doesn't surge into it while coasting down lol.
With wheels this heavy, plus the auto, I honestly think 20% is more in line with actual DT loss but again that's just going by my own personal experience, others opinions may vary.
I think I'll be over 1000lb/ft with 18 or 20% DT loss on a 100 tune
Thanks! I'm also very pleased with the AFs, I've seen some high 12s on dragtimes dynos which scared the hell out of me. I'm fine being a little rich, and yes the tune is meant for a catless exhaust and modified intake so it will lean up a bit and kick out some more horses soon (good call ) AFs were 11.0:1 from 4000rpm up on every single pull.
Honestly I'm already used to the power LOL. I've had faster cars before but this one has me smitten so bad I can't stop haha, I love the combination of performance and luxury. I agree I need to do something about the heatsoak, so MHP IC pump upgrade and custom T-stat go in next for sure. However I still need to add power so it's either eliminate the cats completely (if I'm going to do it I'm going to do it right 
) and also the mufflers, or possibly a RT intake? The 100 tune will happen at some point but you're right why not squeeze what I can out of the 93 tune before switching over. Makes sense.
How much weight will I drop losing cats and mufflers?
What are typical gains with the RT airbox?
Thanks for your help!
Couple things....
Don't read too much into the actual number. There's just no real way to tell actual BHP short of an engine dyno. But it's more important to pay attention to the gains, and your gains look great.
Drivtrain loss is closer to 18% on these cars, not 20%. But even still, that would depend on the type of dyno.
Which leads me to next question. What type of dyno was it? And how did you pick up the RPM lead for torque?
Don't read too much into the actual number. There's just no real way to tell actual BHP short of an engine dyno. But it's more important to pay attention to the gains, and your gains look great.
Drivtrain loss is closer to 18% on these cars, not 20%. But even still, that would depend on the type of dyno.
Which leads me to next question. What type of dyno was it? And how did you pick up the RPM lead for torque?
Dyno Jet 248 and we used an optical pickup. I don't know of another way with a 65? We just remove the underpan and fiddle with the pickup for 30 minutes before we find a spot where it doesn't whack the fan or the car doesn't surge into it while coasting down lol.
With wheels this heavy, plus the auto, I honestly think 20% is more in line with actual DT loss but again that's just going by my own personal experience, others opinions may vary.
I think I'll be over 1000lb/ft with 18 or 20% DT loss on a 100 tune
One final point. You're AFRs look great! Hard to tell with the scaling, but it looks like you're just a hair over 11.0. Do you remember the number? I was right around 11.9, so it looks like you have a safe tune, although one would need a looksie at timing before making that statement. Assuming timing is good, there appears to have been some left on the table. Once you get your cooling mods, Andy should be able to squeeze more out of her.
) AFs were 11.0:1 from 4000rpm up on every single pull.
So, great segue into your question. I believe that cooling mods and intake are of the most importance on the V12TTs, if you're looking for huge power. You might want to hold off for a minute though. Enjoy the car how she is for a while and once you get 'used' to the new power, then upgrade. I just might be working on a little something, with a sponsor on here, that will be of interest to you, in a few weeks. The cats on these cars are the size of beer kegs. Replacing with smaller race cats will save weight, and allow you to go with a 3" downpipe and exhaust all the way back to your muffler-less exhaust. And you'll want to remove those rear mufflers. Trust me. I'd only go with a race gas tune, after you've exhausted cooling, intake and weight saving mods. Just my opinion though....
The cats on these cars are the size of beer kegs. Replacing with smaller race cats will save weight, and allow you to go with a 3" downpipe and exhaust all the way back to your muffler-less exhaust. And you'll want to remove those rear mufflers. Trust me. I'd only go with a race gas tune, after you've exhausted cooling, intake and weight saving mods. Just my opinion though....
) and also the mufflers, or possibly a RT intake? The 100 tune will happen at some point but you're right why not squeeze what I can out of the 93 tune before switching over. Makes sense. How much weight will I drop losing cats and mufflers?
What are typical gains with the RT airbox?
Thanks for your help!
Last edited by JHDavis; Feb 21, 2011 at 09:59 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 77
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From: Dublin, OH
SL65
Ok another question, where is the stock rev limiter for a SL65? We never found out baseline dynoing due to the speed governor. Post tuning it seems to go to 6200rpm. Did that change or is that the stock limit as well?
Thanks gents!
Thanks gents!
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 133
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Supra
I have some bad cell phone pics :/ but while my car was in the shop, we did the big trunk mount IC tank that Speedriven put together. Granted it's still cold out, but if you're thinking cooling options - give it some thouight. I have the big boy version in my drag car and the results are awesome.
Jay
Jay
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From: Lincoln, NE
2005 SL600, 2016 ES300h, 2012 Hayabusa
Great gains!
Couple things....
Don't read too much into the actual number. There's just no real way to tell actual BHP short of an engine dyno. But it's more important to pay attention to the gains, and your gains look great.
Drivtrain loss is closer to 18% on these cars, not 20%. But even still, that would depend on the type of dyno.
Which leads me to next question. What type of dyno was it? And how did you pick up the RPM lead for torque?
One final point. You're AFRs look great! Hard to tell with the scaling, but it looks like you're just a hair over 11.0. Do you remember the number? I was right around 11.9, so it looks like you have a safe tune, although one would need a looksie at timing before making that statement. Assuming timing is good, there appears to have been some left on the table. Once you get your cooling mods, Andy should be able to squeeze more out of her.,
So, great segue into your question. I believe that cooling mods and intake are of the most importance on the V12TTs, if you're looking for huge power. You might want to hold off for a minute though. Enjoy the car how she is for a while and once you get 'used' to the new power, then upgrade. I just might be working on a little something, with a sponsor on here, that will be of interest to you, in a few weeks.
The cats on these cars are the size of beer kegs. Replacing with smaller race cats will save weight, and allow you to go with a 3" downpipe and exhaust all the way back to your muffler-less exhaust. And you'll want to remove those rear mufflers. Trust me.
I'd only go with a race gas tune, after you've exhausted cooling, intake and weight saving mods. Just my opinion though....
Couple things....
Don't read too much into the actual number. There's just no real way to tell actual BHP short of an engine dyno. But it's more important to pay attention to the gains, and your gains look great.
Drivtrain loss is closer to 18% on these cars, not 20%. But even still, that would depend on the type of dyno.
Which leads me to next question. What type of dyno was it? And how did you pick up the RPM lead for torque?
One final point. You're AFRs look great! Hard to tell with the scaling, but it looks like you're just a hair over 11.0. Do you remember the number? I was right around 11.9, so it looks like you have a safe tune, although one would need a looksie at timing before making that statement. Assuming timing is good, there appears to have been some left on the table. Once you get your cooling mods, Andy should be able to squeeze more out of her.
,So, great segue into your question. I believe that cooling mods and intake are of the most importance on the V12TTs, if you're looking for huge power. You might want to hold off for a minute though. Enjoy the car how she is for a while and once you get 'used' to the new power, then upgrade. I just might be working on a little something, with a sponsor on here, that will be of interest to you, in a few weeks.
The cats on these cars are the size of beer kegs. Replacing with smaller race cats will save weight, and allow you to go with a 3" downpipe and exhaust all the way back to your muffler-less exhaust. And you'll want to remove those rear mufflers. Trust me.
I'd only go with a race gas tune, after you've exhausted cooling, intake and weight saving mods. Just my opinion though....
new mod options
very excited to hear what you are up to!
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MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Maryland
Eurocharged 2004 E500, Eurocharged ECU/TCU 2005 SL600, 2010 Caddy SwaggerWagon
Thread Starter
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From: Dublin, OH
SL65
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 77
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From: Dublin, OH
SL65
