alx

Ok, I got the new Bosch ic pump and I put the car on the lift, removed the front underbody panels and... I can't find the pump.

Where is the darn thing? All I see is on the pass side a much smaller pump that is obviously not it.

What am I missing? Do I need to drop the front bumper?

Thank you

Edit: I found it. It is on the driver side and the bumper needs to come off. Now I have to figure out how that is done...

WHTEVO

I assume you have a 07'-08'? The DIY that is on here seems to pertain to the ones before 07' because it is no where near the same on my car. Mine is also behind the drivers side fog light cover. I was able to do mine without removing the bumper. It was a pain to do, and i have endless tools available for use. Taking the bumper off would make it way easier but wasn't sure that added hassle was worth it. If you decide not to pull the bumper, let me know, and i'll try to walk you through how i did it. Good luck.

Aaron

alx

Figured out the bumper.

Pulled the old pump- it was the new Bosch pump (just like the one I bought) and... It worked. I did not risk it and still replaced it with the new one. The problem Is that I still don't have coolant flow from the shrauder valves on the intercoolers. I removed the valve stems and put pieces of fuel hose back into the filler in the middle, but there is no flow. It is my understanding that when I actuate the pump with das there should be flow from the valves. There is none. does that make any sense?

I assume that I have a lot of air in the system. How can I bleed it? I have all kinds of fluid pumps available.

Any other ideas why there is no flow?


Thank you

WHTEVO

I too had no flow after the install. My car had the newer pump as well, and i was only changing it just to get it out of the way since i went through how a bad pump can affect the car on my 55.

Anyways, i used a tool that puts vacuum on the whole coolant system, then it allows new coolant to be sucked in. Leaving no air in the system. It worked perfectly. This is the tool i used: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

Aaron

WHTEVO

If you don't have a similar tool, i would completely fill the system, get the pump running, and with your hands, squeeze the lines before and after the pump, and also above on the back side of the coolers. I originally did this, with the two schrader valves out, with hoses running from the schrader valve ports, back into the filler neck. This DID work, and i then used the vacuum pump to ensure no air was left in the system the following day.

Aaron

alx

Aaron, yeah, I tried burping by hand wherever I can see the relevant hoses. Unfortunately, that changed nothing and there is still no flow.

The question I have is do I have to have the engine actually running? I have been actuating the pump via das (working late at my house so firing up the car was not an option last night). Maybe there is a thermostat in the ic coolant circuit and I am being an idiot?

Thank you for all the help.

NCE500

Can you can hear the pump running via das? If yes, it is air in the lines, if no you probably need to start the car.

Removing the shrader valves, putting hoses over the openings and using something along the lines of the referenced pump will help considerably with bleeding the air out of the system.

For what it's worth, after doing all the above, I've still always had to top mine off daily before starting the engine for about a week every time it has been opened up, but once it is full it stays that way.

WHTEVO

I did all of this with the car off, and activating the pump. Make sure your pump is actually turning on. Since you have some fluid pumps available, go ahead and use one. It will make it much easier and quicker.

Aaron

alx

aaron,

yes, i can hear (and feel when touching) the pump running when activating it via das.

i buttoned up everything today, hooked up das and went for a drive. my iat is stuck at 165 around town- stopped, moving, makes no difference. ambient is nice 70. i assume i should be at 90 iat which i am not. the intercoolers are cooking

that confirms that i have air in the system.

i will look around for a proper way to bleed the system with tools.

thanks for your help

btw, if anybody has any great simple ideas on how to force coolant in and air out- please do share

WHTEVO

That tool I mentioned, or one that does the same thing, will for sure get the system properly bled. You will need a air compressor to use the tool I mentioned though. I have used it on the normal engine coolant systems as well, and works perfect everytime. This is probably the simplest, most effective method.

alx

i actually found a method that uses a pela oil extractor. sounds like it will do the trick just fine. i need to go get a few simple pieces (a t-connector and a big radiator rubber plug), but it should be pretty simple.

here is the link i found for the contraption...

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=315806

i will report on how it goes.

WHTEVO

That's a great link. How he made it, is pretty much just like the snap on one I use minus the valves, and vacuum guage.

alx

Success.

I built the contraption out of home depot clear hose and plastic t- fitting. I already had the oil extractor, hose clamps and the rubber plug with a hole in it I borrowed from another tool I had.

In 5 minutes vacuumed out about a quart of coolant and all visible hoses for the intercooler circuit collapsed. A quart? I thought there will be more.

Next closed the vacuum line to the oil extractor and opened the other line that was submerged in fresh coolant. Promptly sucked in about 2 quarts. A quart more than went out. Good.

Fired up car and instantly saw the flow. Shrauder valves pissing coolant and all. Didn't have to add a drop more of coolant. Total time - 15 minutes.

Hooked up das and went for a drive. Ambient was about 75 degrees. At stand still iat was 135, about 120 when moving at very light throttle. Full throttle runs dropped temps to about 100 then spiked to went 145 and then went back down quickly.

Overall it seems that iat is more sensitive to throttle position than speed which makes sense. At wot there is a lot of air thought the intercoolers so the temps drop. At idle there is very little air so it heats up quickly. But at idle or little throttle I never saw over 135 even stuck in traffic.

So... All is good.

If your pump works and you are seeing high iat you need to bleed the system with a vacuum tool.

Aaron, thank you for the help

WHTEVO

Hey no problem man. Glad I was able to help someone out based off my personal experience.