mattjsl55

Hi everyone, brand new to this forum as bought an Sl 55 yesterday! It's awesome, 05 model year in black with great spec but I've got a problem! After a couple of miles of driving, the ride becomes terrible and very clunky over bumps, not like an Sl at all. It seems like on start up it is ok but gets progressively worse with driving. Had it to an indie today who had it on star and did a rodeo test, no faults in abc. One of the front struts is very wet with the back two very slightly damp. Am I going to get away with one shocker? Or is there something Ive missed? If there are no codes present the valve block is ok right? This topic may have been done to death so sorry if that's the case but any help would be appreciated. Regards, Matt.

IngenereAMG

Hi and welcome......

It sounds like you are having shock issues, which is never an inexpensive proposition.

If it comes down to replacing the shocks, there is an answer. The dealer charges $2K/shock. Arnott sells rebuilt units, with a lifetime warranty for ~$600. Here's there site: http://www.arnottindustries.com/

Enjoy The SL, I've had mine since new, and it still puts a grin on my face. Oh, btw, when you are ready for some more power, we have that answer as well!

mattjsl55

Thank you. The previous owner just had the pump replaced and told me suspension was a1, but it definitely is not. Would you start by replacing the one which looks really bad but leave the back two? It is only a very minor damp patch about one inch wide on each whereas the whole front shock is wet.

biker349

you better keep an eye on your fluid level, or you'll be replacing another pump. sounds like major leaks. i'd wipe them down and drive for a while and re-check to see if they are actually leaking. remember to keep the fluid full.

cal1

Congrats on the SL purchase. These little beasts are so sweet when running well. I still love mine to death, but she is kind of like a super hot mistress (like I would know), very needy at times. have you gotten any warnings at all on the Multi function display? The SL tends to throw "ABC" codes and warnings like I change my shorts. I am a bit surprised that you apparently have leaking struts and no codes. One more question about the ride. Does the car get super bouncy and rides almost like the shocks are worn out?

alx

Even minute amounts of leaking hydraulic fluid might have great negative effect on the ride quality. I agree with replacing the front one and then paying attention to the rears. Make sure you get arnott remanufactured struts as they carry a lifetime warranty and they are cheaper too. After a shock replacement a rodeo must be executed.

grane

Consider getting some Petrosin from Advance Auto and a new ABC filter (4 mm screen vs the old 10 mm screen) either before or after you have the shock replaced. There maybe more going on in the system; this is a cheap first step.

I have serious negative thoughts about the previous history; did you have a pre purchase inspection esp of the undercarriage for leaks??

Consider having a specialist with STAR check everything...ABC related. What else didn't the seller reveal? Get an MB dealer to check the service log.

mattjsl55

Hi thanks for your input, the car has been on Star and come back with no faults, just before i buy this first strut, could it be anything else?? I have tried to buy one from Arnott, but they do not ship internationally ( i am in England.) So it would be nice to know if it could be anything else before paying £1500 for one shock! As i say, the ride quality is awesome for the first fifteen or so minutes then gets really really clunky and bangs. Could the system be losing pressure from any other place? The car was fitted with lowering links which i have taken off today and put the car back to standard, i was happy at first as the car drove great, but then again after fifteen minutes driving, the clunks came back. Could one shock leaking really cause the whole car to drive so bad? It seems more clunky at the back yet these shocks are nearly completely dry!

cal1

The SLs are notorious for worn ball joints, control arms and bushings. I am just throwing this out, but maybe something is worn and starts raising hell when it heats up. My recollection on having trouble with these issues was mostly squeaking like old bedsprings, but no significant change in the ride. It is a long shot, but, no harm in having your indy check it out. If you do, have him look at the motor and tranny mounts while he is under the car.

Good luck. If you end up needing struts, maybe we can figure out a way to get them shipped to you.

sprins

Hi,

There are some companies that refurbish ABC struts. Since you are in europe you might find some in Germany. I googled a bit and found:

http://stores.ebay.de/exclusivautomo...=p4634.c0.m322

Saves a lot of money, and they take in your strut for refurbishment for the next patient. I'm not endorsing them, so educate yourself. But you don't *need* to buy new.

amx1397

just so you know if you have to replace one ,,,DON'T,,,Struts that is,, replace them as a pair, either replace both rear, or replace both front, if you replace one, the one on the other side is going to go bad soon. So again replace them in pairs. Good luck Jim

ClassicAutoPaul

[QUOTE=mattjsl55;5337449]I have tried to buy one from Arnott, but they do not ship internationally ( i am in England.) So it would be nice to know if it could be anything else before paying £1500 for one shock! QUOTE]

Arnott stopped shipping some of their referbs outside of the US because the supply of used cores is tight. One smart chap bought a couple of used ones from me and sent them (had me send them) to Arnott. They were happy to sell and ship them after they got the cores.

If you can go without your Benz for a couple days, I think you can pull out the old ones and send them stateside. Or look around for some used ones that you can send. I don't have any but I'm looking because Arnott pays well for MB Cores. Check with the folks at Arnott first of course.

alx

mmm why? i have seen plenty replacements on one side only without any bad consequences.

replace only the ones that leak.

mattjsl55

Ok, I've now covered 500 miles in the car, no pentosin has been lost and I'm starting to doubt it is the shockers as I can feel the knocking through all of the car, I'm just not convinced it is the shockers. The car has a custom exhaust with straight pipes, I'm wondering if this could be banging when it heats up? Anyhow that is coming off tomorrow and a stock exhaust going on. Could this noise be engine mounts or transmission mounts? I'm just really wary of buying a shock when I'm not convinced this is the problem area. Again, first fifteen miles or so of the day are perfect, then the knocking begins, so I guess it is heat related.

cal1

I have been suspicious from the beginning that it is not struts just because you have no ABC warnings.

mattjsl55

Some good news, replacing the beast of a straight through exhaust with a stock one has cured the clunking! No struts !! Now the bad news, now the stupidly loud exhaust has gone there is a really bad vibration through the car with feels like transmission, a real bad judder between 2 and 3 thousand rpm. The vibration is also present when revving engine in park. Does this sound like torque converter?! I could feel a vibration with old exhaust but I put it down to that (it was SO loud it felt like resonance) at low rpm with barely any throttle there is no judder, give it part throttle it is very very noticeable, give it full throttle and it is less so. Only had this car a week and it hasn't given me a good nights sleep yet, but I only need to look at it on my drive and it cheers me up! As an aside, my soft close boot has also stopped working, heard that removing fuse 20 can solve this, any idea where fuse 20 is?

cal1

Sounds a lot like the tranny mount to me. Our trannys are pretty robust. They are designed to handle the big torque of the V-12s. Could be a combination of both tranny mount and engine mounts. I have had tranny mounts replaced once and engine mounts twice.

mattjsl55

Guys, a big thanks for your input and help. Removal of sports exhaust and new tranny mounts have solved all of my running problems, car now drives amazing! I am very pleased with it once again, thanks, Matt.

cal1

Nice! Welcome to the passionate love hate relationship you will have with your SL. At least if you are anything like me.

I'm sure glad you were hesitant to start changing out struts.

alx

it is not a love-hate relationship. a more accurate representation is love-hate-hate-love-hate-hate-hate-love-love-hate-hate-hate-hate... and so on

cal1

^ HaHa! Very true.

mjr24

Hey Cal....I know you are local and seem to have done a few things to your SL maintenance wise. Have you done the motor or tranny mounts on the car? Or have you done anything with replacing the serpentine belt tensioner? I am looking for a someone who might be able to do this work in either the Milwaukee area or northern Illinois....thanks.

cal1

I have had motor mounts done twice and tranny mounts once. Also snapped a serpentine under WOT. The MFD lights up like a Christmas tree when that happens.

The guys at Speedriven come highly recommended. I have not used them, but will when I need more work done. I think one contacts name is Marcin.

Speedriven

http://speedriven.com
Phone number: 1 847 485 8126
655 S. Vermont St.
Palatine, IL 60067

abiazis

On the soft close, don't use the fuse reset trick more than a few times, as you may damage your PSE pump (located in the trunk).....there must be a leak in the, i.e. trunk latch, etc....that has to be addressed, i.e. replace trunk latch....or somewhere else......do a search on this topic....lots of info....

My PSE pump was bad and had to be replaced......I did the trick about 6 times too many....luckily warranty covered the new one for me....about $ 800 job altogether......with new trunk latch and pump.....

AndreaAMG

Matt mine was doing the same thing. My amg mech looked it over completely, finding the motor mounts, thrust arm bushings and sleeves all in need of replacing. you feel it when you throttle due to the high torque, I'm told.