i agree with BB on this one

 

And me too… sorry….

(If I'm gone do something more with the cooling ( I have the speedriven coolers) then it's gone be the Killer Chiller upgrade).

 

I'm kinda wondering if there's room for improvement by just removing the airbox with JUST a flash? I was considering going catless, but I already have no mufflers and don't want it that loud. I also don't want to buy new mufflers either, especially since I don't know what to buy. I don't want to ruin the V12tt sound. Did I understand you to say I would pick up 20whp by removing my airbox altogether, and then lose nothing by adding a better breathing intake setup?

 

Rear tank and a Killer Chiller would be like having the tank full of ice 24/7. My water temps are 39-41 degrees on a 100 degree day. Yes 60 degrees or even more below ambient.

 

Does killer chiller mount up front to AC or in back with tank?

 

I'm gonna try it out regardless see what happens since the mod wont cost a lot it wont hurt to try and compare to stock and see how well it cools. If it doesn't work out it didn't cost me a lot and ill just either buy Spedriven set or have a custom set made. But with no one really modding the krap out of the SL its a lot of R&D regardless and I don't mind testing everything out.

As for exhaust I lost 20 rwhp with air box to 540, when air box came out went to 636. so intakes are a must.

I'm gonna look into killer chiller though and do some research

 

What size are the stock 65 turbos?

You might want to consider meth injection as well.

And wow Shardul agreeing with me? This has got to be a first lol

 

I can understand how adding heat exchanges to dissipate heat by using ambient air can only reduce the coolant temp so much and can also maintain a higher coolant temp without proper airflow or pump flow.

My question is, would a larger top mount intercooler, or quad set up, take the same hot charged air created by the turbo and heat the coolant less? In other words, since the heat generated by the turbos remains the same, would larger intercoolers create a lower change in temp in coolant returning to the heat exchange, allowing the heat exchange to be more effective?

 

As Blackbenz noted, of course removing entire airbox will increase power, you removed all air restriction possible BUT... After adding any CAI solution back those gains will not increase, they will certainly give up the majority of gains vs running NO airbox whatsoever.

However running no airbox/cai you wont keep those massive gains, it will only be drawing hellish furnace temperature quality air & the perf will go down severely, way past restrictive oem boxes etc.. Remember your hood is fully OPEN during these dyno tests w/huge cooling fans blowing fresh air into turbs, NOT so in real world, it turns into a portal to hell itself when hoods closed ol..

Any free flowing wider dia CAI solution will be an improvement over stock boxes/filters (ive tried dyno/street tested every concievable CAI)

The oem design is full of 2-3 90 deg bends that lead to a final candy bar sized slit that ultimately leads to turbo inlet, worst power robbing oem airbox design I've ever seen. Big hint toward keeping more of those gains use as little metal tubing as possible, it heat soaks instantly especially on turbocharged engines leaving you w/fancy Hot Air Intake negating any ram air design after its heated to running temperature.

Adding your 3-4" Heat Exchanger idea to mix will just hinder the cooling ability of any v12tt further.. Trust the OG's trying to steer you in proper direction here, few of us have been modding them for many, many, years.. Biggers not always better ie add too large a turbo & you'll have massive turbo lag etc etc..

Here's my super secret mod of ALL MODS.. Do so at your own risk, seek Doctors approval/advice before install as acceleration is soo brutal/violent only the healthiest virile men should attempt such modifications

 

I'm thinking about a custom HE made or one that is close to the dimensions of 29-29.5 inches wide, 6 inches tall and 2.5 inches thick since it will fit the bumper np.

For the CAI tom we have the parts coming in for the intake and see if we can trim some stuff to have the intakes in front of the radiator. If not I'll prob do a short ram until I get the body kit on my car the question is do I go 3 inch pipe or 4 inch if I do short ram?

What I'm really curious is the housing on the SL600 turbos? Is it the same as the 65? I was thinking about rebuilding the turbo with a larger wheel. If the housing is the same I'll just get a pair of 600s and rebuild on those. But if the housing is different I'm gonna have to find some 65 turbos to use to build. Prob drive that until the transmission goes bust and rebuild the transmission.

 

Same housing different wheels.. You need to focus, stay w/1 mod at a time this way you'll see what really works best or not @ all on your car.. Good luck

 

When in doubt, do nothing. I'll wait for everyone else to make the mistakes this time. I'l leave my meth kit on the shelf for now...can't get EC to return an email, let alone a custom tune...

 

Yeah I was kinda waiting for someone to do some mods put the some info up but only info that's really available is Therickers build so I figured might as well guinea pig my car and tweak some stuff around and see how different stuff will cause the car to react.

The exhaust alone took some time figuring out what was causing it not to perform well at first but honest I love the trial and error stuff till the car runs right. I'm prob gonna have to at least experiment with 3-4 intakes until I get the results I want.

After that is sorted out then off for turbo upgrade off the OEM so gonna have to PM Shardul lol

But I was looking into the killer chiller that some people suggested. Will they allow you to use this on the track? I assume the A/C needs to be on for the freon to flow but I've been reading the tracks wont let you use it with water leaking?

 

Search Soulsearchers build here...

 

Killer Chiller with a large rear mount tank would be perfect. Yes the AC keeps running. I dont get any water coming out of mine when staging. Track never said anything to me either. Kept my car running entire time when in line. I have seen people add ice to their rear tanks and still only have 70 degree water. Chiller will drop it down to 39-40 degrees. you would have to add a LOT of ice to get that kind of drop.

 

Is there a MB specific Killer Chiller, or is there a generic model. I don't want to pay the MB tax, if a Mustang or Camaro one would fit...

 

 

 

 

Kit I got was about $600 from Joe Kincaid. Was a kit made for my W211 so I am sure it works with your car or he could put one together that does. Its all about having the right fittings. I paid someone around $300 for the install. Worth every penny. I just wish I had done a rear tank instead of the 2.5 gal tank. More water would help.

 

It got me curious, even if they wont let you use it while your at the track runs I would think it would at least help with cooling the car down in between runs or just crusing

 

It also seems that you have to discharge your whole AC system to connect everything up and you probably have to refresh it a little heavier than you normally would to account for the extra load on the AC system?

 

I personally never even found water under my car keeping it on 100% of the time. Your water temps with a regular IC will get quite high especially after a run. Will easily get over 100 degrees on a warm day. If its 100 degrees out side and you go hard it will get up to 120+ . Chiller on it drops the temps down to 40 degrees within a few minutes. Cruising around without getting on it at all the IATs will stay around 50-65 degrees on a 100 degree day. They still jump when you go WOT but you start with very low IAT and it goes down way below ambient very quickly afterwards. I think the Chiller and a Meth kit would be the best setup possible. Just have the meth kick on once IATs hit 100 or 120.

 

Any progress on the CAI? Finally took my exhaust and air box off today. Geez what a piece of crap the air box is....No wonder these things are starved for air at anything over stock boost levels...Going to start gathering material to fab up my catless downpipes...

 

Had both my struts changed ABC is working fine so no more crazy rodeo on the dyno like before, and put a Quaife LSD in, but the EC/DC shop had there dyno filled up for there sale they had, but now that everything is running fine I will be there this week getting results on the 3 inch intake and also collect data on how fast it will heat soak as I'm gonna use silicone piping, and mod the OEM air box as well and compare results