SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: CLS55 Losing Power
08-07-2015, 03:48 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
CLS55 Losing Power
Just couldn't find New Thread on CLS section so posted here!
So, I have a friend with a 2006 that keeps losing power when warm & STAR states "intake air temperature too high" & suggests to replace the electric Intercooler water pump. This has been replaced with a brand new one but the problem remains
With the engine cold or just starting to warm, it is as ferocious as any 55 AMG should be. But as soon as it reaches normal running temp, the ECU shuts down the power!
The only other fault at present with the car is the outside temperature sensor which is reading -40'C. Now waiting for a new sensor.
Could this affect the performance??
Any suggestion maybe we can solve this??
So, I have a friend with a 2006 that keeps losing power when warm & STAR states "intake air temperature too high" & suggests to replace the electric Intercooler water pump. This has been replaced with a brand new one but the problem remains
With the engine cold or just starting to warm, it is as ferocious as any 55 AMG should be. But as soon as it reaches normal running temp, the ECU shuts down the power!
The only other fault at present with the car is the outside temperature sensor which is reading -40'C. Now waiting for a new sensor.
Could this affect the performance??
Any suggestion maybe we can solve this??
Last edited by KAROZZA; 08-07-2015 at 04:25 PM.
08-07-2015, 04:21 PM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Just couldn't find New Thread on CLS section so posted here!
So, I have a friend with a 2006 that keeps losing power when warm & STAR states "intake air temperature too high" & suggests to replace the electric Intercooler water pump. This has been replaced with a brand new one but the problem remains
With the engine cold or just starting to warm, it is as ferocious as any 55 AMG should be. But as soon as it reaches normal running temp, the ECU shuts down the power!
The only other fault at present with the car is the outside temperature sensor which is reading -40'C. Now waiting for a new sensor.
Could this affect the performance??
Any suggestion maybe we can save this??
So, I have a friend with a 2006 that keeps losing power when warm & STAR states "intake air temperature too high" & suggests to replace the electric Intercooler water pump. This has been replaced with a brand new one but the problem remains
With the engine cold or just starting to warm, it is as ferocious as any 55 AMG should be. But as soon as it reaches normal running temp, the ECU shuts down the power!
The only other fault at present with the car is the outside temperature sensor which is reading -40'C. Now waiting for a new sensor.
Could this affect the performance??
Any suggestion maybe we can save this??
08-07-2015, 04:45 PM
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
I would disconnect the air bleed line (smaller hose coming off of upper metal tube exit front/passenger side of SC).
remove the coolant tank cap and route the air bleed line into the coolant reservoir
Now, run a hot wire to the pump and then observe the water (if any) going from the (temporarily re-routed) air bleed line into the reservoir.
you will likely want to sqeeze and release the hose entering the low-pressure (input side) of the circulation pump to assist in priming the pump with water (if it is in fact not pumping because of excessive air in HE).
In my AMGs, I always add an H.E. air bleed (for just such occasions)
remove the coolant tank cap and route the air bleed line into the coolant reservoir
Now, run a hot wire to the pump and then observe the water (if any) going from the (temporarily re-routed) air bleed line into the reservoir.
you will likely want to sqeeze and release the hose entering the low-pressure (input side) of the circulation pump to assist in priming the pump with water (if it is in fact not pumping because of excessive air in HE).
In my AMGs, I always add an H.E. air bleed (for just such occasions)
08-10-2015, 05:42 AM
#6
Member
Thread Starter
We have checked again & there appears to be no air blocks as well as the pump seems thoroughly primed.
The only obstacle we can think of is, as the car was recently imported from the UK, maybe the previous owner had tuned the car so the heat exchanger is not sufficient; could this be the culprit!?
The only obstacle we can think of is, as the car was recently imported from the UK, maybe the previous owner had tuned the car so the heat exchanger is not sufficient; could this be the culprit!?
08-10-2015, 11:24 AM
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
We have checked again & there appears to be no air blocks as well as the pump seems thoroughly primed.
The only obstacle we can think of is, as the car was recently imported from the UK, maybe the previous owner had tuned the car so the heat exchanger is not sufficient; could this be the culprit!?
The only obstacle we can think of is, as the car was recently imported from the UK, maybe the previous owner had tuned the car so the heat exchanger is not sufficient; could this be the culprit!?
so by "seems thoroughly primed" you mean you have verified that the pump is moving water through the system?
if this is the case, have you checked your actual IATs (intake air temp)? (its not clear to me if you are still getting this code or just got it before you changed the pump). You can use any tool that collects live data from the obd2 port ("torque" is a popular android app to do this with a smartphone and an obd2/bluetooth dongle).
what other codes have you gotten?
have you ever gotten an "air recirculation flap malfunction" code. Getting one of these may or may not turn on the check engine light, but it will disable the supercharger while it is happening and then re-enable the SC when it starts behaving. (grasping at straws with this last one)
cheers,
Chris
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08-10-2015, 11:41 AM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
so by "seems thoroughly primed" you mean you have verified that the pump is moving water through the system?
if this is the case, have you checked your actual IATs (intake air temp)? (its not clear to me if you are still getting this code or just got it before you changed the pump). You can use any tool that collects live data from the obd2 port ("torque" is a popular android app to do this with a smartphone and an obd2/bluetooth dongle).
what other codes have you gotten?
have you ever gotten an "air recirculation flap malfunction" code. Getting one of these may or may not turn on the check engine light, but it will disable the supercharger while it is happening and then re-enable the SC when it starts behaving. (grasping at straws with this last one)
cheers,
Chris
if this is the case, have you checked your actual IATs (intake air temp)? (its not clear to me if you are still getting this code or just got it before you changed the pump). You can use any tool that collects live data from the obd2 port ("torque" is a popular android app to do this with a smartphone and an obd2/bluetooth dongle).
what other codes have you gotten?
have you ever gotten an "air recirculation flap malfunction" code. Getting one of these may or may not turn on the check engine light, but it will disable the supercharger while it is happening and then re-enable the SC when it starts behaving. (grasping at straws with this last one)
cheers,
Chris
Yes, we feel that we have verified that the pump is pumping fluid through the system.
No faults regarding flap.
The pictures show what we are getting with Diagnostics..
08-10-2015, 12:12 PM
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
I got that it is still not working properly with the new pump .... when you say "the fault is still persisting" do you mean the air temp fault code?
can you verify the IAT?
if the pump is running (stream of water running through bleed tube when observing as I previously suggested) then it would seem that your HE does not have sufficient airflow or your IAT sensor in BAD ....
Hopefully you will get other suggestions at this point ...
Chris
11-21-2015, 05:37 PM
#11
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2005 E55 AMG, 2006 SL65 AMG
Just wondering what was the outcome/solution to your problem. Did you try checking your intake air temperature while driving and under wide open throttle? How did you verify that the pump was working? I noticed that your coolant temp was at the high end of normal, could that be a related problem?
Btw, I am having a similar problem with my SL65 (different set up I know) so am trying to research how to fix my problem. I have changed my intercooler pump (old one was working fine apparently) and I have vacuum filled the coolant system but am still having the problem. I am wondering if there is still air in the system. I haven't tried turning on the pump and checking for fluid to come out the purge line yet but will try this soon.
Thanks for the input!
Ian
Btw, I am having a similar problem with my SL65 (different set up I know) so am trying to research how to fix my problem. I have changed my intercooler pump (old one was working fine apparently) and I have vacuum filled the coolant system but am still having the problem. I am wondering if there is still air in the system. I haven't tried turning on the pump and checking for fluid to come out the purge line yet but will try this soon.
Thanks for the input!
Ian
