Hi all,

so, after a month or so with my SL55, the consumer electronic message is coming back up after a 10 day trip (car idled), and driving it for 20 minutes didn't charge it back up enough and saw the consumer electronics message back up the next day.

Then, my passenger side HID light went out, and I just took it out today and order the D2S replacement part. Anyone with any experience with what works best?

Also, I am thinking of replacing my consumer battery in the trunk. I called mercedes and said it was about $250 in stock.

Anyone with experience of doing it yourself? I also read somewhere that it requires reprogramming from the dealer after a new one is popped in, is that true?

Thank you for helping me out!

J

With respect to the battery, I've replaced mine and it was very straightforward. A dealer visit wasn't required to reprogram/reset anything. I'm assuming the 55 and 63 are the same in this respect.

James

This link should help. I would buy again

https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...ry-amazon.html

The rear battery is held by a plastic insert with one screw. No need for dealer. Any Group H6 Group 48 AGM battery is a direct replacement.

I absolutely love the philips D2s extreme. Here is a photo of the lamp (bulb). Most people recommend replacing both lamps at the same time. As the lamps start to wear, their color range (kelvin, I think) changes so you will have two different looking head lamps.

Big caveat. Before spending the money on lamps, make sure the lamp is in fact the problem and not the starter or ballast. Take the time to put the lamp from the side that works into the side that does not to make sure it is in fact the lamp.

It might not be the bulb, it may be the ballast

Yep, I had a bad xenon that I thought was the bulb and it wasn't. I had an extended warranty on the SL at the time so I took the car to the dealer. Dealer said they were not sure if it was ballast, starter, or controller (if I recall correctly). The Dealer could not identify the bad component so they were just going to start changing them out until the problem was solved. They said it would likely be less expensive to replace the complete lighting assembly. Since the warranty covered it, I told them to do so. I think the whole assembly was $1,500.

Thanks for all the great info.

For the HID, I took the bulb out and saw where that straight line on the side of the bulb is disconnected, I assume it is burnt out.

I haven't gone to try to take out the other side yet as I am still very new to this car, and I don't wanna go screw up the only side that works.... but I might just go try it now that you guys got me thinking. I did however noticed in the day time that the light is a bit weaker for the past few weeks or so.

As for the battery, I have never changed a car battery in my life, so I was wondering if there are some common sense knowledge that I should know besides make sure the positive is with positive and negative with negative?

thanks,

J

When you say "straight line" are you speaking of the wire filament down the length of the bulb? If so, I agree, it is probably burned out.

Which side did you remove? I only ask because most of the time, the drivers side is easier to remove than the passenger side. The SBC unit on the passenger side makes it more difficult.

Finally, I found that after removing and replacing the bulbs a few time I became pretty proficient at the process even without being able to see well. Make sure you don't touch the glass part of the bulb with your fingers.

Check this link out.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/R230AuxBattery

It explains the process of removing and replacing the battery very well. The only thing I would add is probably overkill, but I like to make sure the keyfob is out of range of the car when I work on it. Keeping the keyfob out of range of the car is a must when doing certain jobs like messing with SBC so I just make it a habit to do so always.

+1 on making sure your keyfob is not close. A shop had to replace my key - when they left the key in the ignition and the battery died. +- $250 cost to replace a keyfob.

Thank you guys for the battery advice. I went to Autozone and got the battery recommended and the guys there followed my instructions and got it installed.

the previous owner apparently only had a 700amp battery from costco that is inadequate for the car, size wise and amperage wise, not only that, the battery had no breathing tube so it started to leak acid a little bit. that sucked big time, but I got the right battery and they put a battery tether on just in case it won't wipe out all of my settings.

I haven't replaced the HIDs yet. I'm going cheap and got some really really cheap HID bulbs from amazon for like $10 bucks a pair, and gonna try my luck to see if it would work.

I know, I know, I shouldn't do that, but I thought it would be an experiment to see if the crap China made stuff would actually work and the philips ones are a truly a rip off or not. If it fails, I will go immediately get the $100 ones.
Mainly because I don't drive the SL55 at night ever.

I will report back if it will work or not.

Thank you ALL!!!!

J

^ Glad you got the battery issue resolved. Hopefully the parktronic gremlins will disappear.

Good luck with the Chinese Xenon lamps.

CRAP, it is the ballast that is broken I am very afraid.

I actually installed the Chinese Xenon lamps on the other side, and it works!

I have a new thread regarding asking what to do with the ballast not working.

I have a theory that because the wrong amp battery slowly killing my car components . I should have changed the battery sooner than later.

J

I don't think the consumer battery would impact the Xenons. Other components, maybe. I will jump to the new thread and see if i can help out.