Nctrnl16

I need to change it (hopefully that does the trick). Car started fine, went to the gas station and turned it off to fill up. Then I went to start it and it just clicked. Had it towed to my garage. Now the suspension has failed and the wheels are in the well and it can't be towed.
I had my mechanic come by and hook up the diagnostic and he said all electrical systems are good, he sees the command to start the car and the signal for crank but there's something mechanical holding it out.
So I have to find a way to jack her up and get the starter replaced. My mechanic can't work in my garage due to insurance restrictions. Can anyone help?

Thanks!

cal1

Can you tell us a little more about the symptoms. It sounds like it could be something as simple as a crankshaft positioning sensor gone bad. Will the car crank and start after it has had time to cool off?

Maybe ask your mech what the fault codes are and post them here. It could be the starter, but I would hate to see you replace it and have it not be the problem. Honestly, in all the years i have been on MBW, I don't recall anyone having an issue with a bad starter motor.

Welwynnick

Forget the suspension for a moment - one fault at a time. You can always use the MB jack to lift the car.

CPS won't stop the engine cranking, it stops it firing.

Maybe the starter has indeed failed, but I would always check the electrical connections first - battery to chassis, engine to chassis, battery to starter, etc.

The starter is at the back of the engine, on the left side, probably behind a heat shield.

Nick

cal1

^ I guess you are more certain about what "just clicked" meant than I.

Welwynnick

Not very. I think there's a way to go on this, yet.

Nctrnl16

Thanks for the replies guys, didn't do anything this weekend with the holiday and all. So, when I turn the key, I hear the systems starting up, and again, there is just slight click under the hood. The guy that came out with the diagnostic computer said all electrical systems are a go, he seen the start command and whatnot. I've checked the grounds from both batteries and everything looks great. I've tried starting it with the gear selector in neutral, I tried holding the key in the start position for 10 seconds and I've checked all fuses and relays. So I have to assume the starter motor, or the solenoid on it is bad. I'm going to get a low profile jack and somehow get the car off the ground to get underneath. She's currently about 3 inches off the ground due to the suspension giving up... and there's no way to get the pump to start up without starting the engine. Fingers crossed!

Nctrnl16

SOOOOO..... I just replaced the starter, and I got nothing. The same little click, and the systems starting up. Again checked the grounds, all of the fuses in all of the fuse blocks, and still nothing. My head hurts... But at least I have a new starter now. Any ideas guys? What about the SAM relay? Is that an option, and where/how do I get that out and tested? Thanks!

mcguirja

When you had the diagnostic done was it using Star diagnostic or a different tool? I ran one on mine this weekend using Star and it pulled up a number of stored codes across a bunch of different systems. Normally with what you're describing some kind of fault would show somewhere to point you in the right direction. If it wasn't done using Star I would see if there is someone in your area that might be able to help. If it was done using Star then no other suggestions I can make except what Nick said.

James

Ingenere

I'm all for figuring things out, but it comes a point when a trip to the dealer is in order. They'll have it figured out and down the road you'll be.

jtse

I think he cant move his car so dealer might not even work yet.

Ingenere

Surely it can be flat bedded. I had the AC compressor fail and threw the serpentine belt, which caused everything to stop. The car fell onto the bump stops, water pump, alternator... everything.

Long story short, the car got on a flatbed.

btw..... the starter is on the bottom of the engine.

latemodel21

If you want to solve this on your own, and you have the ability to check a few things ...

you will want to verify the circuit 30 and circuit 50 power at the starter (starter is labeled "M1" in documentation).

Circuit 30 is always hot (+12v), it comes from the starter battery via F52 (between bass speaker enclosure and firewall in passenger footwell) ... this is easier checked at the starter.

Circuit 50 is hot when the "start" criteria is met (and the car is trying to turn the starter). classically, the "click" one hears in a conventional car that wont start is the solenoid/relay (mounted on the starter) getting circuit 50 power yet not pulling in hard enough to connect circuit 30 (internally at the starter) OR it does connect circuit 30 but the battery is too low to turn the motor. This may be your click ... or since this is a Mercedes there could be any number of things clicking.

You can check circuit 50 at the starter .... or you can check it at the K40/4 module (tucked between starter battery and passenger side fender). At the K40/4 look for connector M2/pin5 (this should be hot while starting)...
if no luck there, you can check (both k40/4) fuse F43 and relay KL (relay KL may be the click you are hearing as well) . ... you can further test this control path by following the relay control signal. This comes into the K40/4 at connector I3 pin 2 ... which comes from the M.E. (ECU) at connector 4 pin 35 it should be "12vdc EXCEPT when starting"

Below is the part of the wiring diagram that covers the starter "M1", the starter fuse "F52", the k40/4 , etc. I also included the description of the function of the various systems/components involved in the starting sequence.

Hope that helps,
Chris

Nctrnl16

Chris,

I appreciate the info. I'm going to get to work on that ASAP. Just FYI- I've had three tow companies come out and none will tow, even with a zero degree bed. Hopefully there's something in the advice, thanks again Chris.

EXECMALIBU

I got into my SL65 one cold morning car started fine. I drove 2 miles away and when I came out 5 minutes later same story... Just a click!! Jump started it came home and just a click again!

The starter battery under the hood with absolutely no warning died… How could it have started the car ice cold and then died 5 minutes later I have no idea...

Replaced the battery and life was good again…

Possibly a shorted battery is causing electrical issues with the entire system and suspension???

latemodel21

that is EXACTLY the way my starter battery went in my SL55. Never an issue, worked like a champ every times, and then one day stopped working (nothing but a click).

Chris

Nctrnl16

Ok gents, I've gone through all of the electrical components and relays and fuses. Checked voltage and everything is good. Could it be that my key is no longer activating the ignition? The same thing happened with the the wife's ML... It would turn, power would come on but no start. I'm at my wits end here... Thanks in advance!

Welwynnick

Does the remote locking work?
Do both keys behave the same?
Does the key actually turn in the ignition?
Does the ignition come on?
If it comes on, do you see the transmission mode display in the dash?
Are there any warning lights or messages on the dash?
If you turn the ignition on, can you press the footbrake and shift out of park?
If you press the footbrake, do the brake lights come on?
Do you have an OBD2 / DTC / diagnostics reader (might be the time)?

Nick

Nctrnl16

Mornin' Wel-

Remote locking works
Both keys behave the same
Both keys turn the ignition
All electronics turn on
The transmission mode is displayed (C)
No messages or warnings
I can shift out of park (tried starting in neutral and no luck)
No diagnostic tool, but I've been looking. Any ideas on which one will work the best? I think I need a pretty dynamic one instead of one that just reads generic faults... or faults that don't exist.

Thanks!

cal1

First off, my knowledge of diag tools is very limited.

I have a DAS/Xentry system that I bought from an MBW member. I think I paid $400 for it. It came complete with the laptop so all I have to do is open the software and plug into the ODB port. The unit has paid for itself over and over again. I just used it to diagnose an airmatic issue on my ML. The system allowed me to test airmatic components and proved out a compressor failure. I used the WIS (work instructions) built into the system to replace the unit myself. The problem is solved and I saved a ton of money by avoiding the dealer. I would not even call myself a backyard mechanic. I would rate my mechanic skills as novice. I do get tons of help from other members. Without that, I would probably not have taken on some of the projects I have.

With three MBs like you have, I would buy a DAS/Xentry system in a heartbeat. They are available in various form on ebay. Lots of discussion about DAS/Xentry on the boards especially the W211 gang. In another thread, a member suggested this as a good unit. https://www.amazon.com/Autel-Maxidia...iglink20394-20

Welwynnick

Sounds like you need proper good diagnostics, and go looking for errors related to the Drive Authorization System. That means the EIS, ECU and ESM or ESL depending on the car.


Nick

Nctrnl16

I was finally able to get a mechanic who is the local pro at foreign exotics over this morning and do a OBD test. He ended up taking the ECU out and bringing it to his shop. He says he thinks the problem is there, but needs to do further diagnostics to it. Man, I hope this is it... If I need a new one, I'm going to have to find a replacement tune for the Renntec one that was in the original I guess...

Fingers crossed!!

Nctrnl16

UPDATE:
The ECU was fine, and the tech ended up condemning the SAM on the driver's side. I bought one, exact for my car and put it in yesterday with much excitement. Unfortunately nothing changed. It still does the same thing... I don't get it. The only thing that's left is the grounding strap. Anyone know where that's supposed to connect to the frame? Or any other ideas out there?

Welwynnick

Do you mean the one on the transmission mount?


Nick

Nctrnl16

Good question! I have no idea, but I've seen in other threads that there's supposed to be a flat metal braided cable that grounds the engine and if that comes loose or off, the car will not start. I'll look wherever you think or know it may be.

Thanks!

driveability

This is going no where fast