slick65

I will attempt to keep this concise. Thanks in advance to anyone inclined to help.
I have a 2005 sl65 with 84k miles.
driving home from work. I accelerated to change lanes, car immediately lost all power to wheels and ABS, ESP and other lights came on.
Engine still running fine.
Tried several start/stops, no go. Had it towed home.
Searched these forums. Bought dipstick and ICarSoft i980, 2 speed sensors and brake switch.
right rear speed sensor was bad. I replaced it
trans fluid level is correct, did not add anything.
brake switch not touched (don't think its the issue)
reset codes, ABS, ESP lights are out
Car starts fine but STILL NO DRIVE TO WHEELS.
If anyone can provide assistance on what to check next I'd greatly appreciate it.
I have been amazed how much I've learned lurking here.
Only had the car 6 months been an absolute joy with only a convertible roof issue up until now. (I bought the reinforcement, kit yet to install)

Plutoe

I am very confused, you state you corrected the wheel speed fault, cleared all the other faults and then the pictures are the returning faults of the corrected and cleared faults----if this is the case you have not cleared the faults.

slick65

Thanks Plutoe.
These are the codes prior to the repairs.

RaceHorse

A few questions that my help others respond:

1.Does the car hold Park or do you need your emergency brake?
2.When the car is started and you shift it from park to drive, is the transmission engaging?
3.Can you see the RPM move around and sense the load on the motor from the transmission from neutral, to drive to reverse?
4.Were you sensing any other transmission issues beforehand?
5.Have you had shifting issues or vibration that you think may have been linked to the transmission?
6. Have you had any noise or issues with the rear differntial?

I snapped my output shaft in my trans, and it gave a few codes. Nothing leaked, it just wouldn't move. I could only speculate until I pulled the tranny and sent it off. Where it snapped it still was able to hold park. In your case, it might be hard to replicate the codes with no movement. I think the computer compares trans shaft speed to wheel speed to sense slippage. Any differences out of the normal range can throw a code. Even overall larger wheel/tire diameter can have an impact.

Good luck, maybe a little more info will get you better direction, if not consider dropping it off with a reputable independent MB shop.

slick65

Thanks for the recommendations RaceHorse
1. car holds park
2. when out of park to drive "very slow, subtle, grinding sound" (not good)
3. no noticeable change in rpm in gear (see 2 above)
4. no issue beforehand except one blip the same morning where a light flashed "I think ABS" and my cruise control came off at 82 mph. i thought it might have been a radar detector function and re-engaged cruise control 30 seconds later after looking for cops. Light went back out. I am unsure what Distronic system can or cant do.
5. no shifting issues whatsoever
6. no issues with rear end/differential

If this was a domestic car that i'm used to dealing with, I'd say I have a torque converter issue. But this seems electronic and I would rather not go down the wrong path if someone here can guide me due to a similar path they have seen.

My next avenue to pursue is the leaking o ring to the TCU issue. Not sure wht the symptoms of that usually are. I assume it is some kind of TCU comm failure message.

Thanks for taking the time to read and let me know if you have any ideas.

slick65

i have moved on to the next most likely scenario.
A simultaneous transmission control module 13 pin connector oring issue (leaking o ring)
waiting on part to arrive.

old connector had 1 or 2 pins with a hint of transmission fluid but nothing like the videos i"ve seen with saturation.
Oddly enough when i pulled the connector, i got a large amount of transmission fluid come pouring out.
this did not happen in the videos i watched but i guess they might have drained the fluid ahead of time and not shown it.

IS IT NORMAL FOR A LARGE AMOUNT OF FLUID TO DRAIN WHEN THE 13 PIN CONNECTOR IS PULLED? (1-2 quarts)
waiting on new part to arrive tomorrow...

slick65

Completed 13 pin connector and filter/gasket changeout
Still no drive to wheels.

Das Geld 2

Conductor plate time?

exhaustgases

Do these models have the transmission fluid wicking problem, that sends trans fluid into the tcm?

eatmycrackers

I have had temporary power loss to wheels in my 2005 SL65. Driving at low speeds I think it was linked to if I revved a little high too quickly I would lose power but after a few seconds of coasting power was restored to wheels.

I think my STAR system noted that and advised oil may not be thick enough etc. car is new to me so I will do an oil change with proper oil to see if the issue recurs. This is on a car with 98K miles

layzie12g

If you have any grinding sound, it sounds like you are wasting time and need to remove the transmission and tear it down to see what is happening. These transmissions are pretty quick to throw slipping faults when the clutches are done, but I have never seen the fault you have. Racehorse has a lot of experience with the V12 cars and he would probably have the most information.

You should have dropped the pan and inspected for metal and changed the filter. I have a feeling you will not like what you see if you have a grinding noises. It is normal for a quart of fluid to come out if you removed the pilot bushing with the fluid not being drained. It makes a mess. These transmission come apart very easy once they are out of the car though.

Also there is a ton more information on the E55 section of this forum. Especially for people that work on their own cars. Forgot to mention that scanning the car with the Mercedes scan tool is also important. I have seen the codes come back very different from generic scan tools. Buying one off Ebay would be a great investment if you plan on keeping the car and like working on it yourself.