I've searched the internet and forums and cannot find the answer to this issue. Any help would be much appreciated. Here is the exact sequence of events that have occurred:
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• I have a 2006 SL55 AMG, 67K miles. The vehicle has a new aux battery and new rear battery, as of this year.
• Out of nowhere a Visit Workshop battery warning came up a few days ago. I drove the car a short distance home immediately.
• The next day I started the car to receive several warnings, ESP, Brakes, Battery, visit workshop.
• The following day the car would not even unlock, the battery was completely dead even though I hadn't even moved the vehicle.
• Today I went to replace the rear battery, since the aux battery showed correct voltage. I used a jump box to start the vehicle and drive a couple miles to the auto store.
• I bought and installed the brand new battery (in the auto store parking lot). Once installed and started, my car wouldn't even shift out of park--the shifter is stuck in park. I left the car idling hoping it would somehow self correct only to find the car began to overheat (after 15min of idling) and coolant started overflowing. All the errors are still showing--SRS, Brake, ESP, battery, visit workshop.
• I tried to find a shift override (so I could shift out of park) under the shift boot only to find the R230 doesn't have one? Correct me if I'm wrong about that, but I looked all over. So now I can't even override to get my car a short distance back home.
• It seems my only option now is to have my car towed?

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I'm beyond frustration and out of ideas. Any help or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks so much.

Hmmmmmm.....That is a lot going wrong. My guess would be that maybe a changing the battery sent a surge through the system and did a number to the ECM. Take a look at the link below.


https://www.pressertech.com/blog/fre...es-ecm-repair/

Do you have at least a iCarsoft MB II( ) to at least plug in and see what codes are being thrown?

You might get lucky and just a few Relays or something got knocked out and with multiple relays being dead it could be causing the ECM to act crazy. But this really sounds like the ECM got fried.


You may want to repost this in the W211 E55 forum. Your going to get a lot more responses and a lot of the guys that hang out over there are very educated on these platforms.

Thanks so much skylolow. I have not found the problem yet, and my car is still in a Napa Auto Parts parking lot (FML). The store owner was kind enough to give me til the end of the weekend to figure out how the heck to get my car out of the parking lot.

I took you advice and just tried posting in the W211 forum. I hope I have better luck there. Thanks for trying to help me out.

The big mystery to me is what happened when I replaced the rear battery to cause the vehicle to become stuck in park?? I can't seem to find the answer anywhere. Only thing I can find are people saying that the plastic switch under the shifter on their R230s had broken at some point--but there is just no way that happened to me at the exact moment I replaced my battery. The vehicle seems to be electronically preventing me from shifting and there is no override button in the SL55 to my knowledge.

Time is running out for me. It kills me that I can't find anyone in any forum that had the same events happen to them. I feel alone on this one. And why did my car not turn the fan on to prevent overheating? It's an electrical nightmare.

I have so many questions about what the heck is happening here it kills me. Here are a few, anyone wanna take a stab at them?
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• What's with the sudden battery warning when the aux and rear batteries are recently replaced (as of this year)?
• Why did the battery eventually completely die even though I took the car straight home and only started it one more time?
• Why is my car now overheating even when idling, it must be related to the Battery / Brake / ESP error? I've read people claiming after the battery warning their cars have also overheated
• What causes the car to suddenly not shift out of park? Even with the previous warnings it was shifting fine. Only upon installing a brand new rear battery has the car decided it won't let me shift?
• Is there any chance it's the alternator? Brake switch? Voltage regulator? Fried electrical?
• Two things make my situation different than the more common things I've read about:
  • (1) neither of my batteries are old and need replacement, and
  • (2) the shifter being stuck in park is so random--the shifter stuck problem typically only occurs when the plastic piece underneath breaks, I'm 99.9% that's not what's happening here.

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Thanks all, for any suggestions, theories, guesses you can offer!

Do you have an icarsoft MBII?

With that you could at least probably see if the ECM is even reading and then from there see what codes its throwing. Otherwise its just throwing darts at a board here.

Like I said before with this many issues going on it has to be something in the electrical system causing it all to fail. It could be as simple as the SAM system just happened to fried. Do you smell a chemically smelling smell in the trunk? At least check that out as you can visually see it most of the time its shot. https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...unk-oh-my.html

You have an electrical issue - probably a SAM module somewhere. Have it towed to MB or a shop that can diagnosis. You could spend a lot of time & $ guessing...

Thanks you all for your contributions. At the advice of a fellow forum member (Thank you so much!!!) I was able to jump the car and very quickly throw it in gear this morning. This advice saved me a tow. I drove it very tentatively to my mechanic keeping it under 2,000 RPM. Upon pulling onto a rack my mechanic noticed right away the rear battery was unusually hot. He mentioned something seems to be putting a heavy load on that rear battery, which explains why it keeps running dead (in less than 24hrs). I will update as soon as I find out in case anyone else experiences this issue. Thank you.

Well, just got a call from my mechanic and the alternator is putting out as high as 17 volts when revved. He suggested replacing the alternator. Is that a typical problem with a bad alternator? Would that explain all the crazy warnings?

My guess it would be more than that causing your problems but at least you got something to start on. Who knows with these crazy electrical systems. It could fix the problem.

I'm not sure what the MB alternators will max out at when revved but anything over 15 volts is to high so if he diagnosis the alternator putting 17 volts out my guess is the voltage regulator on the alternator is shot. So replace the alternator to start with and see what happens.

Wow cliffhanger. Did the alternator fix your issues? Does the car shift out of park no problem now? Did you fry any Sams?