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My 2008 SL63 AMG’s radiator temperature rose to this temperature whilst stuck in a traffic jam before I heard a (fan?) sound from the engine and soon after that sound, the temperature soon reduced to about 90°C. The white coloured light below the 120°C mark stayed white all the while the needle was pointing at around 119°C, it never once turn red. After a 2 hour engine shut off, I drove the car back home with the temperature around 90°C.
Can someone explain to me what has happened and how can I self check what the problem is? Maybe adding some water or coolant to the radiator reservoir?
Something is not right.
1- Check coolant level on a Cool engine!
if level is correct, you might have a bad thermostat or a cooling fan.
If level is low, you have a leak or the headbolts broke.
2- check the oil level and cap. Check for water-oil mixture.
in all circumstances, DO NOT drive the car, tow it to a workshop for a pressure test.
Ok, the mechanic found the Water Pump to be the problem and has suggested me to replace not only the water pump but a lot of other associated items (because there could be a knock-on effect and we do not know when an associated item will fail in a 2008 year car, the mechanic says)
The items he has suggested for replacement is actually quite extensive and I hope someone here can also give me their thoughts
1. Electric Water Pump
2. Electric Thermostat
3. Timing Belt (1 set)
4. Timing belt guide pulley
5. Camshaft Pully x 2 (1 set)
6. Radiator Cooling Fan
7. Coolant
I mean, if the Water Pump is the thing that has currently failed, wouldn’t it be cheaper that I only have that one item replaced?
Ok, the mechanic found the Water Pump to be the problem and has suggested me to replace not only the water pump but a lot of other associated items (because there could be a knock-on effect and we do not know when an associated item will fail in a 2008 year car, the mechanic says)
The items he has suggested for replacement is actually quite extensive and I hope someone here can also give me their thoughts
1. Electric Water Pump
2. Electric Thermostat
3. Timing Belt (1 set)
4. Timing belt guide pulley
5. Camshaft Pully x 2 (1 set)
6. Radiator Cooling Fan
7. Coolant
I mean, if the Water Pump is the thing that has currently failed, wouldn’t it be cheaper that I only have that one item replaced?
The car has a timing chain behind the water pump. There is NO timing belt.
What is the mileage?
However, I would check the condition of the serpentine belt, pulleys, and coolant hoses and replace as needed.
Ok, I have asked the mechanic for diagrams of what they intend me to replace, and here it is. I’m a bit lost actually. The mileage is just over 30000 km Can you help... thanks!
Ok, I have asked the mechanic for diagrams of what they intend me to replace, and here it is. I’m a bit lost actually. The mileage is just over 30000 km Can you help... thanks!
Ok, the mechanic found the Water Pump to be the problem and has suggested me to replace not only the water pump but a lot of other associated items (because there could be a knock-on effect and we do not know when an associated item will fail in a 2008 year car, the mechanic says)
What a load of nonsense.
Take the car to a competent Mercedes specialist that is equipped with Star Diagnosis. They will have the ability to properly check the cooling system including a test of the engine cooling fan.
By the way, according to Mercedes you can drive your car all day long at a temperature of 120 degrees C.
They are suggesting i change all these parts because of faulty water pump. The Radiator Fan seems to be the priciest and I’m thinking of leaving that out. Apparently, to remove the water pump entails removing all these other parts, so their opinion is: mixing a new water pump together with old parts can cause damage (?) What are your opinions?
When replacing the water pump, you definitely replace the thermostat and coolant at the same time (if neither have been recently changed). As previously mentioned, there is no timing belt. If he’s referencing the serpentine belt, which is an accessory belt, he should be able to show you how it’s worn. He should also be able to demonstrate how he diagnosed the cooling fan as faulty. Otherwise, those other items sound like a bunch of BS. That’s pretty low mileage to have to replace all of that.
Last edited by poppyboy; May 26, 2020 at 09:49 AM.
Hey, thanks for your input. Yeah the mechanic said the water pump is faulty but I would also like to know how can a water pump be found faulty? Through the diagnostic computer?
However, as of now, and as far as I know, the radiator cooling fan is working. But their reasoning for suggesting the above items to be replaced is so that "new and old parts don't conflict with each other", which to be honest, I find it hard to understand. Unless of course, to replace the water pump, one would have to remove all the above said items and one might as well replace it. Problem is, I am not a money printer.
Last edited by happy happy; May 26, 2020 at 10:08 AM.
Hey, thanks for your input. Yeah the mechanic said the water pump is faulty but I would also like to know how can a water pump be found faulty? Through the diagnostic computer?
However, as of now, and as far as I know, the radiator cooling fan is working. But their reasoning for suggesting the above items to be replaced is so that "new and old parts don't conflict with each other", which to be honest, I find it hard to understand. Unless of course, to replace the water pump, one would have to remove all the above said items and one might as well replace it. Problem is, I am not a money printer.
If I were in your place I would go to another workshop. New & old parts conflicting is nonsense!
Also, why replace the camshaft pulleys?? It has nothing to do with the water pump, and I am not sure if they meant camshaft adjusters or the intermediary timing chain gears.
So my advice is as follows:
1-replace water pump and its gasket
2- replace serpentine belt
3- replace belt idler pulleys
4- replace radiator hoses ( mainly the two large hoses on both sides)
5- replace the thermostat
if the cooling fan and AC are working = don't replace the fan.
if the car drives fine with no power loss, noise, and CEL (codes), then do not replace anything related to camshafts or timing.
Last edited by Solo wing; May 28, 2020 at 08:33 AM.
If I were in your place I would go to another workshop. New & old parts conflicting is nonsense!
Also, why replace the camshaft pulleys?? It has nothing to do with the water pump, and I am not sure if they meant camshaft adjusters or the intermediary timing chain gears.
So my advice is as follows:
1-replace water pump and its gasket
2- replace serpentine belt
3- replace belt idler pulleys
4- replace radiator hoses ( mainly the two large hoses on both sides)
5- replace the thermostat
if the cooling fan and AC are working = don't replace it
if the car drives fine with no power loss, noise, and CEL (codes), then do not replace anything related to camshafts or timing.
Totally agree with this guidance. These are all considered "while you're in there" items when replacing a water pump, and are all wear items to some degree. Replacing the radiator cooling fan is total nonsense, that system can easily be troubleshot via STAR and has no mechanical linkage to the water pump or other items listed.
Hi guys, thanks a lot for the input. I really appreciate it. The parts have been replaced as advised and I have got my car back. Unfortunately they scratched a beautiful part of the engine, I am not OCD but I’m wondering what can be done about this...?
Ok. Sorry. That wasn’t clear. In that case, I would definitely go back to the shop and ask them to cover the repair with a competent automotive painter. It’s not a simple touchup since there’s clearly high temps involved.
No problem at all, I should have been clearer.
Pardon my ignorance but that whole part is the cylinder head? I was also thinking like you too: a simple touch up might not do the job and I suspect the entire cylinder head (if it is called that) will have to be removed and then re-sprayed. Gosh.....
No problem at all, I should have been clearer.
Pardon my ignorance but that whole part is the cylinder head? I was also thinking like you too: a simple touch up might not do the job and I suspect the entire cylinder head (if it is called that) will have to be removed and then re-sprayed. Gosh.....
This is the intake manifold. It has a common corrosion issue. So I really suggest you have it properly repaired and coated, otherwise, corrosion will destroy it.
Not the cylinder head, but rather the intake runner/plenum. The damage will likely get worse not only via corrosion, but also from the enormous amount of heat generated under the hood. Just see what they say and take it from there.
Yeah I will bring it to the shop tomorrow. I asked them about rust. They replied it was aluminium alloy. Well.... even if it is, is aluminium alloy not subject to rust?
Yeah I will bring it to the shop tomorrow. I asked them about rust. They replied it was aluminium alloy. Well.... even if it is, is aluminium alloy not subject to rust?
Aluminum corrodes but does not rust. Iron and steel rust.
I believe the manifold is made of Al/ Mg alloy.
Hey guys, hows it going.
went to the mechanic today and since they have their own paint room, they will respray the part for me next week. Apparently it entails removing the whole thing and “scrape the stuff off then repaint it”.
i just hope the colour looks as per original, fingers crossed!!
Hey guys, hows it going.
went to the mechanic today and since they have their own paint room, they will respray the part for me next week. Apparently it entails removing the whole thing and “scrape the stuff off then repaint it”.
i just hope the colour looks as per original, fingers crossed!!
Make sure they replace the manifold bolts and gaskets since its a ONE-TIME USE ONLY!!!
Also replacing the PCV is a good idea if it has not been replaced before.
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