Hello,

If any of you have installed an after market heat exchanger on your SL55.
I am in the mock up stage and just wanting to verify that I can still use in-line the stock heat exchanger with the after market PLM unit.
The stock coolant outlet is lower than the PLM coolant inlet.
I am making the assumption (whether right or wrong at the moment) that the Bosch 010 pump will be able to move the fluid from the lower point up to the PLM unit.
In the image below it appears the PLM unit is much higher, but the car is also jacked up quite a bit, so the appearance might be a little skewed.
See Pic 1

Also how did you route the oil cooler hard line which has a slight V bend.
Did you replace the hard line with a hose or what ?
See Pic 2

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You

Pic 1


Pic 2 - Red circle shows the hard oil cooler line with slight V bend.

 

I installed the PLM in series with my stock heat exchanger on my 2003 SL55. I did not change the oil cooler hard line, but I did massage things a bit. I put some info and a few pics in this thread https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...group-buy.html if you want some more pics or info, send me an email at latemodel21@yahoo.com

cheers,
Chris

 

My current project is finally complete, yes it has been awhile as life got in the way.
My car is a 2004 SL55 AMG
3 projects were completed within the entire project, see pics.
1) Install new PLM XL heat exchanger in line with the stock heat exchanger.
2) Split the cooling system, separate completely the supercharger cooling system from the engine cooling system.
3) Install new Bosch 010 IC pump.

Installing the PLM XL heat exchanger:
This is not some simple bolt up and attach a couple of hoses and off you go.
If you are not comfortable in disassembling and modifying your car, then this project is not for you.
You will be drilling into the crash bumper, mocking up and cutting heat exchanger mounting brackets, mocking up and cutting the front bumper cover mounts, cutting the left and right side air baffles (they direct air flow into the previous system), creating two new or modifying existing oil cooling mounting brackets (I chose to fabricate two new mounts), and modifying other parts.
Have extra spring tension hose clamps as they will be needed if you want everything to look factory.
Use Mercedes spring tension hose clamps, I tried many brands trying to save a little money, none fit like the OEM ones.

Splitting the cooling system:
Not difficult, just a pain in the ***, hand cuts and bruises.
But now the super charger cooling circuit is 100% separate and split from engine cooling circuit.
Even the primer circuit from the super charger is now part of the new split cooling circuit and feeds into the new heat exchanger reservoir.
Have extra spring tension hose clamps as they will be needed if you want everything to look factory.

Bosch 010 IC pump install:
So easy, do not know what else to say.
Just make sure to clamp off your hoses leading into the pump.
Two bolts hold the pump in place and rubber sleeve surrounds the pump.
You can reuse the two spring tension hose clamps currently on the old pump.

Lastly I would like to thank Chris (latemodel21) for allowing me to email and phone him when I ran into road blocks.
His knowledge and previous experience in performing this modification was of such a great help.













All back together and on the road.
Had not installed the fog light mesh grills in this photo yet.

 

HI
I am in the midst of my install and really liked your design. I just couldn't tell how you re-routed your transmission coolant lines. I am comfortable MIG welding new brackets, etc., but am nervous bending those metal coolant lines.

I can get the heat exchanger and the oil cooler itself in good positions, but the metal oil lines to the oil cooler challenge me, as does the clip mount at the base of the existing condenser which holds the two transmission cooling lines in place. I was trying to figure out how to get the metal cooling lines for the existing oil cooler up into the space I'll be creating between the new PLM he and the existing condenser, but am stuck. Any help on how you crammed them all together would be VERY helpful!!!
Thanks.
Dave
2004 SL55

 

Dave,

I broke loose the left and right side cooling lines from the cooler (do not take them off), you will lose drips of fluid, very very little.
I used two long crescent wrenches to brake loose the lines.
With the cooler now able to swivel, I could then gently maneuver the lines up into place and secure the cooler with my new mounts which I fabricated.
Long zip ties became my best friend while performing this mod, as I was able to keep the lines and cooler in place temporarily.
When done, the lines are centered in the empty space and when all is tightened, the lines do not move.

Eric

 

Thanks! I managed to get mine in with slight bending and repositioning of the line. Appreciate the help.

 

Looks great!

 

I just installed the PLM XL heat exchanger on my SL55, along with new, relocated oil cooler.

My question is, how did you fit the split cooling overflow tank in your car?
I bought one of those BMW power steering reservoirs, but for the life of me, i don't see how i can fit it under the hood of the SL55.
Can you post a few close up pictures of your coolant tank? I wonder if VRP is using a smaller unit, not the one from the BMWs.

Thanks!

 

HI
Well, step one was just to get the PLM he for the E55 into my SL55, which I did a couple of days ago by basically moving the brackets holding the oil cooler back (so that only the rear bolt was holding the top of the bracket as it gets attached to the crash bar).I had to grind off one of the two tabs on the oil cooler that go into those rubber grommets, so my oil cooler is basically at the same height, just back 1.5 inches. I then cut off the two large side tabs on the PLM and used metal straps to mount it, only having to bend my trans cooling lines a little.

I ran the hoses without much modification; I merely tapped into the return line that comes out of lower radiator and goes into the Bosch pump, added a "T" fitting and looped that into my new HE. I put a 3-way switch on the Bosch pump, so I can experiment a little with either "constant on" or, if I want, using the stock settings with the thermostat-controlled on/off circuit that's OEM (that I hear different things about as far as how it works). The T currently runs up to the top of my engine compartment so I can use it to purge air (my setup has coolant flowing from lower radiator hose into the HE, so a lot of potential for air bubbles).

SO, long story short I haven't yet split my cooling systems as I wanted to establish some baselines on IATs and engine temp before switching over. I found a smaller metal tank for mini Coopers (see link) if I want to keep it on the same side, but on my 2004 SL55 there is a Ton of room on the other side of the engine compartment, between the ABC pump and the headlight. If I have to I'll go there. If I do, then I can go back in, run the lower radiator line I tapped into into the other lower line (bypassing my Bosch pump) and use the upper line from my T to feed into the bottom of the future split tank. Hope that makes sense - I can barely get my hands in there, much less take pictures.

Aluminium tank:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15430575313...8aAnQcEALw_wcB

Give me a few weeks and I'll see about splitting and mounting a tank.

 

Danmm7,

The bracket from VRP was to long and I had to trim off some in order for the reservoir to fit correctly.
I wanted plenty of clearance between the reservoir and pulleys and belt.
Pics as requested, if you need any additional information, please do not hesitate to ask.

Eric

 

EHiser, Did the overflow coolant tank from VRP come with the upper port for the bleed line (from metal pipes) to be connected to it, or did you add the port yourself?
Any chance you can measure the approximate diameter of the tank? I am starting to believe that the BMW PS tank i bought is simply too wide/bulky and this is why i can't fit it.

 

Danmm7,

Tank is roughly 4 inches in diameter and the aluminium bracket is roughly 4 5/8 inches in diameter.
I tapped the bleed port into the side of the reservoir as I wanted the super charger cooling circuit to be 100% separate from the engine cooling circuit.
As well below all the shared hoses and "H" connector were removed.
Everything I utilized was either OEM or stainless steel.
The bleed port bulkhead straight fitting into the reservoir is stainless (amazon), I could not source anything local that was 5/16 inch.

Eric


Stainless steel bulkhead straight fitting which I used.

 

Hi
Hope I don't invite a lot of criticism, but I have installed the upgraded Bosch pump ending in 10, wired it for always on, and installed the PLM exchanger, which is run in series after the coolant leaves the OEM radiator. (I just diverted the return line to flow through the PLM before going back into the pump). Net result, my IAT's are great, typically 20-30 degrees Fahrenheit above ambient. I live in Arizona, where it has been around 100 degrees lately, as it will each summer.

My question revolves around splitting. My engine runs at 95 degrees C according to my dash gauge, but my small diagnostic computer shows 206-212 Fahrenheit when the dash gauge shows 95-96 C. I had planned on splitting the system, but now I wonder about my assumptions. I have a hot engine and a cool intercooler. I don't really need my intercooler to run cooler, and now I don't just "not mind" that my engine and charge coolants don't mix very much, but find myself wishing they mixed more (so that my engine would be a few degrees cooler). Would prefer the engine to actually run closer to 200 degrees F, as high under-hood temps in Arizona cook all the plastics, tending to make things break because they get brittle. For those last few degrees I'm more concerned with heat dissipation than some minor variance in 1-2 horsepower or efficiency if I'm not at the perfect engine temp.

Every post I read talks about lowering IAT and isn't too concerned about ECT. Does anyone have ANY idea how much mixing of engine and charge coolant actually happens in the stock setup?

 

I expect there may be a variety of opinions on this topic, but here are mine .... the coolant temperature is "manipulated" (to optimize efficiency, performance, engine life, etc) with the thermostat and fans ... both of which can be changed if you desire (you can put in a lower temp thermostat and using "star", change the fan turn- on temp).

In the factory configuration, the 2 circuits don't mix (much) nor exchange much heat with each other (which is GOOD), but by being connected, they can mask problems with the charge cooling system (leaking intercooler is less "visible") AND, it subjects the Intercooler to a higher pressure differential (between air and water) then it would otherwise see (during full vacuum and pressurized cooling system) . AND of course, lower IAT always = higher HP

Cheers,
Chris

 

Thanks!
You're right, I can probably address my concerns with a lower set on thermostat (engine). Have you seen a thread on a good source and temp? I had thought the OEM thermostat opens at something like 88 degrees C or something like that. Even 5 degrees C would probably be all I need.

 

@58yearoldinSL55,

Have to agree with @latemodel21 (Chris) in everything he stated.
My reason in adding the PLM XL heat exchanger and splitting my cooling system is that I am currently adding a smaller SC pulley.
Thus I am wanting to minimize the possibility of heat soak occurring, I do live in a warm area (southern Kansas, high 90's , low 100's and high humidity) and couple that with a smaller SC pulley.
I do not track my car or race it, just enjoy working on it and possibly extracting additional HP for fun (without causing injury to it).
I know others will say then why more HP if you are not going to track it or race it, Well that is my choice.

P.S. You do not have to wire your new 010 cooling pump to make it always on.
If you have a SDS, you can make a single settings change to keep the pump always on when the engine is on.
That is what I have done.

Eric

 

Thanks for the comments. I live in a hot climate, wanted to run WOT back to back without fear of any heat gain. Had to remove bumper and repaint it as well as pump, so I thought I might as well install the $300 second HE.

I ran in it series, after the coolant comes out of the radiator. My intakes are running at 20-25 degrees Farenheit over ambient, and I did not split the cooling. So, I have a small amount of fluid that is helping cool the engine as well as keeping my intercooler nice and cold. I did this as an experiment, but my intercooler IAT temps are running so low, I may leave it as is. 210 degrees may be optimal for the engine but in our climate it cooks all the plastics under the hood.

 

Can you please elaborate more on the SDS settings? I don't have one myself but the shop that works on my car does and the next time I'm in for maintenance I would be interested to look into this feature.
Thanks in advance!

 

@58yearoldinSL55,
Mercedes Star Diagnostic Scanner
With the bumper removed, it would be the perfect opportunity.
Just remember it is going to take some work to get the heat exchanger, oil cooler and other miscellaneous items fitted/modified.

@AudiologyVA,
Edit the following: "Control Units/Drive/ME/Actuations/M44(charge air cooler circulation pump)"
This allows you to set to default or always on.
If this is wrong, someone please let me know, but through my discovery and testing, it appears to work.

Eric

 

@AudiologyVA,
Edit the following: "Control Units/Drive/ME/Actuations/M44(charge air cooler circulation pump)"
This allows you to set to default or always on.
If this is wrong, someone please let me know, but through my discovery and testing, it appears to work.

Eric

Eric, thank you for sharing this information.

 

I eliminated mine and with the Johnson pump works great.

Anyone I need an ECU for an 07 SL55

 

I think I'm the same age is as you and just moved to Maricopa AZ this summer. I have a tip if you are worried about the heat here cooking plastics in your engine bay. I have never owned a home before and my new home here allows me the pleasure to leave me hood open as soon as I get home in my garage. When driving, the cooling fan and air flowing into the engine compartment helps keeps things "cool" I feel the damage of heat is when you get home and park your car - allowing all that heat to be trapped in there. I know some escapes under the car but it takes more 8 hours for the engine to be cool to the touch. I have found opening and leaving my hood open w/ a shop fan blowing cools the engine to the touch in less than 1 hour. (I do have a portable AC unit in the garage) It is about 100F in my garage now w/ the AC off. After getting home and opening the hood, it jumps to 120F in just minutes! So that V8 is definitely generating lots of destructive heat after it's turned off. I have a Wieistec heat exchager running in parallel with OEM unit and update Bosch pump. No heat soak issues so far. My car is a P30 so I do have the luxury of an extra OEM oil cooler front the SL65 so, I'm sure that helps keep things cool now that I live is Hades.









Just my 2 cents.

 

In order to stop overheating (TX seize heat) on a 2009 SL63 that has a Weistech SC and it's cooler was blocking to much airflow. I did cut a small section of the bumper reinforcement bar and placed the SC cooler on an angle under it. Final results are no more overheating!