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I'm going to be refinishing the wheels on my SL65 in the next couple months, trying to decide on colors. I am going to be pc the calipers burnt orange / copper and the wheels either factory titanium or gloss black. The center caps will be the modern black/ silver coin. . .what's everyone think gloss black or factory titanium ?
Since your car is black, I would go with a factory look for the wheels. Blacked out wheels look good on a lighter color car, but they just basically disappear on a black car.
For me, again since your car is black, I would not refinish the calipers in any kind of bright/vivid color. It's not a Ferrari or a Lambo; even though the engine and acceleration rivals anything from Italy, the SL is a much more understated elegant car. If you really must add a pop of color, I'd go with a very dark metallic. Copper would be OK, but I think a dark red would be better. Keep in mind that the front calipers on the SL55/600/65 are huge, so any color added there is going to be much more prominent than it would be on most other cars.
Since your car is black, I would go with a factory look for the wheels. Blacked out wheels look good on a lighter color car, but they just basically disappear on a black car.
For me, again since your car is black, I would not refinish the calipers in any kind of bright/vivid color. It's not a Ferrari or a Lambo; even though the engine and acceleration rivals anything from Italy, the SL is a much more understated elegant car. If you really must add a pop of color, I'd go with a very dark metallic. Copper would be OK, but I think a dark red would be better. Keep in mind that the front calipers on the SL55/600/65 are huge, so any color added there is going to be much more prominent than it would be on most other cars.
thanks. Id be matching the caliper color of the oem amg CC brake calipers. . .I'm leaning toward sticking with the factory titanium color, I think it would look really good against the caliper color. I do agree black wheels dissappear on a black, especially if the barrel / lip of the wheel is black also
What is the official name/paint code for the AMG two piece wheel centers sometimes called Anthracite, Gunmetal, Titanium etc. I need to do a little touch-up
Out of the choices provided I'd go titanium.
I have had many colors. Ever considered something unusual? Black is so good to have basically, any, color wheel.
I've had red, green, tint clear, two different blues, charcoal, black and am now running a penny colored: shiny copper which would
be awesome on black
What is the official name/paint code for the AMG two piece wheel centers sometimes called Anthracite, Gunmetal, Titanium etc. I need to do a little touch-up
pretty sure the official MB color name is titanium, unsure of paint code
Out of the choices provided I'd go titanium.
I have had many colors. Ever considered something unusual? Black is so good to have basically, any, color wheel.
I've had red, green, tint clear, two different blues, charcoal, black and am now running a penny colored: shiny copper which would
be awesome on black
being that I'm doing the CC orange color calipers I want to keep the wheel color a little more basic
The only way I can think to do the job right is to remove the 15 screws around the edge to separate the center section from the outside. The screw heads are XZN 8mm. I put as much force on them as I dare without stripping them and they did not move. Does anyone know if they have a thread locker on them? If it is a high strength, high temperature variant such as Loctite 272 it would take a temperature above 450 degrees Fahrenheit before they would loosen. Would Loctite 272 be what you recommend using when installing new screws after paint? What place could supply those NZY bolts? If the screws are not obtainable what are your thoughts on using a torx or torx-plus head screws? I am guessing obtaining the MB torque speck for the screws is never going to happen so is there a formula or "best guess" way of developing a torque specification taking into account the screw size and the materials being fastened together?
The only way I can think to do the job right is to remove the 15 screws around the edge to separate the center section from the outside. The screw heads are XZN 8mm. I put as much force on them as I dare without stripping them and they did not move. Does anyone know if they have a thread locker on them? If it is a high strength, high temperature variant such as Loctite 272 it would take a temperature above 450 degrees Fahrenheit before they would loosen. Would Loctite 272 be what you recommend using when installing new screws after paint? What place could supply those NZY bolts? If the screws are not obtainable what are your thoughts on using a torx or torx-plus head screws? I am guessing obtaining the MB torque speck for the screws is never going to happen so is there a formula or "best guess" way of developing a torque specification taking into account the screw size and the materials being fastened together?
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
