When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I currently drive a 2011 SL63 with 65,000 km on it. It is a bit bewildering as to the choices for different fluids including motor oil, transmission fluid, ABC hydraulic fluid etc. For example, Mercedes recommends mobile one as a choice for motor oil but there are a number of other options available which may be more suitable.
May I appeal to the members of this forum for your thoughts. Additionally, what is the prescribed service schedule for the various fluid flushes and replacements? I am keenly aware of the critical role that fresh fluids play in the maintenance of a vehicle. Thank you in advance for any thoughts and advice from my fellow members.
HLG600. I am immensely grateful for your response and the comprehensive list of fluids and service intervals that you had provided. It serves as a welcomed guide to ensure that my SL receives the care it deserves. Would you be able to direct me to where I may find the information on the specific quantity of fluid required for each application?
HLG600. I am immensely grateful for your response and the comprehensive list of fluids and service intervals that you had provided. It serves as a welcomed guide to ensure that my SL receives the care it deserves. Would you be able to direct me to where I may find the information on the specific quantity of fluid required for each application?
Happy to help!
As for the quantities needed:
Engine Oil: 8L if you extract or drain from the oil pan bolt only. 9L if you also drain the oil cooler.
Transmission Fluid: Most service kits come with 10L. You won't be able to drain everything in one go, so a few drain / fills (usually ~3L each time) will be needed to cycle most of the oil fluid out.
Differential Fluid: Capacity is a bit over 1L. I generally have 2L ready for any differential service.
ABC Fluid: 10L for the service. If doing it yourself, let me know and I'd be happy to provide some guidance on the process (have performed the service many times on numerous ABC-equipped MB cars).
Brake Fluid: 3L needed for the factory process using MB STAR / Xentry.
Engine Coolant: 8-10L of mixed coolant and distilled water.
HLG600 : I remain in your debt for the generosity that you have demonstrated sharing your knowledge. I would be most appreciative if you would offer some guidance in the process of changing the ABC fluid. Many thanks.
Owners Manual for the car can be found here: https://www.mbusa.com/content/dam/mb...L_Operator.pdf
If you ever replace your spark plugs, for these cars always use ONLY the ones specified in the owners manual, never any substitute or cross-reference. NGK spark plugs can be purchased directly from NGK on their own website, this way you know you aren't buying counterfeits. For the 2011 SL63 AMG, the owners manual specifies a spark plug: NGK ILZKAR 7 A 10, and says torque them to 15-18 foot-pounds, or 20-25 Nm.
HLG600 : I remain in your debt for the generosity that you have demonstrated sharing your knowledge. I would be most appreciative if you would offer some guidance in the process of changing the ABC fluid. Many thanks.
Sharing helpful information / experiences is what these forums are all about.
There are a number of helpful YouTube videos out there on how to perform an ABC Service, and I encourage you to review them to get a sense of the process.
To complement that, here are some tips / best practices that I've learned and applied over the years:
1) Have 3 clean containers ready. Two with at least a 2L capacity and one with at least a 10L capacity. Containers should be clear / opaque or white for visibility. I use paint mixing containers and a large bucket (found at most hardware stores). The objective is to be able to pour the old fluid out carefully and examine any debris flushed out of the system.
2)The area surrounding the ABC reservoir must be meticulously cleaned of dirt, dust, fluid, etc. I use a combination of a detailing brush, compressed air and a powerful ShopVac to loosen and remove any potential contaminants. This is followed by a thorough wipe-down with alcohol and a microfiber cloth. The ABC system operates at a very high pressure, so any debris introduced into the system during the service can damage components. This is why it is important to be meticulous when cleaning and prepping for the service.
3)After removing the old filter, I extract and replenish the fluid in the reservoir. The reservoir holds ~2L, which is 50% of the total system fluid capacity. This step takes the dirtiest fluid in the entire system out of the picture before any system Actuations are introduced. This first extraction is also what goes into the first container, and is your first check for debris.
4)With the reservoir replenished with new fluid and a new filter installed, I'll perform a "Rodeo" to ensure that the new fluid is fully circulated throughout the struts, shocks and valve blocks so that any small pockets of dirty fluid (e.g. in the bleeders) are reached and cleared. The reservoir is then extracted and replenished a second time, readying the system for the fluid cycle process. The extracted fluid here is what goes into your second container, and is your second review of the debris in the system.
5) Cycle out the fluid in the system with the next 5L of new fluid. The two-step process above usually results in clean fluid coming out pretty soon. Be sure to never let the reservoir run dry and have at least a half liter of new fluid to set the level at the end.
6) In some cases, replacing the filter a second time is advisable. I'd say it depends on how dirty the system is. Good to have one ready just in case, but not necessary IMHO unless the first replacement filter became notably dirty during the process.
HLG600 - Thank you once again for providing an extremely insightful post. As you have suggested, I will review the videos on YouTube to ascertain a sense of the process before proceeding. I am afraid my curiosity got the better of me this past weekend and I inspected the ABC fluid. There was some black residue on the bottom of the reservoir which I have placed on a white paper background. Would it be safe to assume that this is normal. How would you suggest cleaning the residue from the reservoir itself as access is noticeably restricted. I have attached a few of pictures for your review as well as a device that I have acquired to help remove the fluid from the reservoir. As ever, your thoughts would be very much appreciated. Many thanks.
This is a pretty good vid for the ABC fluid change. Your fluid looks like it's ready. I note the tech doesn't exactly treat it as a surgical clean room. Far as fluid choice note he's using something else. Fluids that meet the spec, I use with zero concern. I do not use Mobil 1 oil or the pricey transmission fluid. Modern synthetic that meets the MB spec for trans, I use it. I don't care if MB recommends it or not, they sign marketing agreements. I have used Shell T6 motor oil in everything with an engine since the dawn of internal combustion and never a single problem. $23 a gallon yesterday.
Thank you iceclimber7 for the great video link and the counterpoint. I've always wondered why the premium companies charge significantly more for the product with the same specifications. I am certain that this debate will continue. Thank you again for presenting your point of view.
This is a pretty good vid for the ABC fluid change. Your fluid looks like it's ready. I note the tech doesn't exactly treat it as a surgical clean room. Far as fluid choice note he's using something else. Fluids that meet the spec, I use with zero concern. I do not use Mobil 1 oil or the pricey transmission fluid. Modern synthetic that meets the MB spec for trans, I use it. I don't care if MB recommends it or not, they sign marketing agreements. I have used Shell T6 motor oil in everything with an engine since the dawn of internal combustion and never a single problem. $23 a gallon yesterday.
Rotella T6 is an excellent product. I generally stick to oils that meet the factory approval, but the T6 has been the one exception case, as I've ran it on a number of different platforms over the years.
The "Manufacturer Recommends <Brand>" part is indeed just due to a business relationship.
All the specs and products with MB's Approval, however, are what count. It's public info on the Bevo site, with a full product list for each spec.
That Fuchs / Pentosin ATF, for instance, is a factory-approved option at a fraction of the cost of the OE Genuine MB bottle.
As for the fluid in the video, it's factory-correct. Smith & Allen seems to be a local manufacturer in the UK. Their Product Data Sheet confirms alignment to the MB spec and the use case of CHF 11S.
If this was available by me at a lower cost than Fuchs / Pentosin CHF 11S, I wouldn't hesitate to run it.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
