SLK/R170: Cold start problem
Cold start problem
For the last week or so, when the try to start up the car in the morning by turning and release the ignition, the starter will crank, but the car will not start. If I turn to ignition off, and then turn and hold, it will start up. Once it was able to start, I can turn it off, and restart by using the turning and release method. It seems that my problem is with cold start. After running the car, and let it sit for a few hour ( like 4 hrs), I can start it up by using the turn and release method. However, if the car sits for 8 hours or more, I will have the same problem starting it up again.
Any one knows what can possibly be the problem ?
Any one knows what can possibly be the problem ?
i know this may be off topic but this car was handed down to me. Can someone explain to me the "turn and release method" of starting the car instead of the "turning and hold method" cause usually when i start the car i just turn and hold to start. and is it avalible for all slk's? i have the first generation slk 230
The "Turn and Release Start" refers to the starter module that keeps the starter motor turning even when the key is released.
If you are having hard start problems there could be a number of reasons causing that so look for other symptoms. It may not be temperature related but it could be a fuel pressure problem. When you are cranking it a number of times, the fuel pressure is building back up until it starts. You leave the car stand and the fuel pressure leaks down over time. It can hold pressure while the car is running but overnight or standing for an 8 hour period gives the fuel line time to lose pressure. You won't lose fuel on to the ground but it leaks in to the engine or back in to the tank depening on what seal or valve is bad.
If you are having hard start problems there could be a number of reasons causing that so look for other symptoms. It may not be temperature related but it could be a fuel pressure problem. When you are cranking it a number of times, the fuel pressure is building back up until it starts. You leave the car stand and the fuel pressure leaks down over time. It can hold pressure while the car is running but overnight or standing for an 8 hour period gives the fuel line time to lose pressure. You won't lose fuel on to the ground but it leaks in to the engine or back in to the tank depening on what seal or valve is bad.
I am wondering whether it is because I have water condensation in the gasoline. Yesterday and this mornng, the car started without problem. The problem seems to have gone away (knock on wood).I remember having the same problem like six month ago. The problem lasted only a couple of days. I hate to take the car in for service, especially if the problem may not be duplcated by MB, unless MB has a away to find the problem.
I have owned several MB cars previously. I am not particularly please with this 2003 SLK 230.
I can hear rattling sound from certain parts of the car on some days, but not on others. Sometime the rattle comes on in the morning, but then in the afternoon. It comes and goes. If I take it to MB for service, it will be difficult to tell the mechanics where or what to look. I had never heard any rattling sound in all my previous MB. I think the quality of MB is slowly declining. Recently I learned that MB is not even on the list of top of quality cars anymore.
I have owned several MB cars previously. I am not particularly please with this 2003 SLK 230.
I can hear rattling sound from certain parts of the car on some days, but not on others. Sometime the rattle comes on in the morning, but then in the afternoon. It comes and goes. If I take it to MB for service, it will be difficult to tell the mechanics where or what to look. I had never heard any rattling sound in all my previous MB. I think the quality of MB is slowly declining. Recently I learned that MB is not even on the list of top of quality cars anymore.
I have this problem too...sort of
I have recently started to have issues where the car would start by turning and holding it...but it would stumble for a while. Then after giving it some throttle it starts to run fine. It will start all day fine and then have the same problem again in the morning.
My local dealer said it needs an updated Fuel Module at $1300. In the meantime they told me to start putting 89 Octane gas instead of the high Octane stuff.
My local dealer said it needs an updated Fuel Module at $1300. In the meantime they told me to start putting 89 Octane gas instead of the high Octane stuff.
I too am having the same problem. I only have a start problem when the car is parked outside for a while in the evening (i.e. while I'm at work).
Could it be temperature related and the result of water condensation?
Off topic, when the car is started outside and cool, I also have a sluggish transmission. Its holding on to 1st too long, and shifting with a jerk to 2nd. If in 1st or second when this happens, if i take my foot off the gas to cruise, instead of clutching, it engine brakes. Any ideas?
Could it be temperature related and the result of water condensation?
Off topic, when the car is started outside and cool, I also have a sluggish transmission. Its holding on to 1st too long, and shifting with a jerk to 2nd. If in 1st or second when this happens, if i take my foot off the gas to cruise, instead of clutching, it engine brakes. Any ideas?
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I had a similar problem with 190 E 2.3 L. There is check vlave on the fuel pump which maintains pressure. If the check valve is broken, the fuel drains back to the gas tank which requries you to crank the engine until the fuel is distributed to the engine.
I had a similar problem. I changed brands of gasoline and it suddenly stopped happening. I know that all gasoline is supposed to be the "same" (I can hardly believe it made any difference myself) but it is a cheap thing to try and cannot hurt.
Originally Posted by pfphipps
I had a similar problem. I changed brands of gasoline and it suddenly stopped happening. I know that all gasoline is supposed to be the "same" (I can hardly believe it made any difference myself) but it is a cheap thing to try and cannot hurt.
Finally, I got tired of this cold start problem. It would be OK one day, and bad for several days, etc. I took it to the dealer. They said they cannot actually find the problem. However, they said they had seen this problem before. So they simply replaced a crankshaft sensor ( I guessed they did not want to wait for 12 hours and gave me a loaner). The problem seems to have gone away for now.
I am curious to know what other successful fixes have been applied to this cold start problem ?
I am curious to know what other successful fixes have been applied to this cold start problem ?



