Mr_Sandman

Hey guys, new here and hate that this has to be my first post.

Picked the car up used a while back and it has been great fun. So much fun, I ripped off one of the rear tires this weekend. Unfortunately I was in a construction zone on the interstate and had to deal with the stress of putting on the spare in a tough spot.

So I pull out the jack, wrench and spare tire (filled it up with air) and thought I would be on my way --- wrong! Seller did not include the spare wheel lugs. So I made the awful mistake of using my normal wheel lugs.

I noticed something wasn't right, as I tightened the lugs there was an obvious gap and they were tough to screw down. Got them all tightened in and tried to drive off... started very slow, didn't even make it a half foot and car would not go. I knew something was up. Got out and tried to remove the spare, well now the lugs are all stripped. Great!

So $650 later, AAA tows me back home (about 150 miles) and I get home at 5am.

Car was dropped of in front of the house. I was not able to get lug bolts off with stock wheel lug wrench, so I had to use some PB blaster and am impact wrench. I got the old wheel back on with 4 out of 5 lug bolts. I'm afraid that the 5th hole is so badly damaged that it will not torque properly to 80ft-lbs.

Trying to keep repair cost to a minimum. I have ordered some new rear tires (Kumho Ecsta ASX) and will have the tires on in a few days. Ordering the new lug bolts and SPARE lug bolts right now from autohausaz. What other parts will I need to complete the repair?

10X164.825

Best case scenario is just the new lug if the Hub's 5th hole thread is intact.

Medium scenario is being able to rethread the 5th hole.

Worst is having to replace the wheel hub.

Mr_Sandman

How bad is the wheel hub & hub bearing swap? Been trying to find DIY instructions but have hit a dead end. I placed one on order (hub and bearing was $45). I do have a metric tap and wheel try to cleanup some threads on bolt #5.

I am also going to take the time to replace rear pads and rotors.

Appreciate the help.

10X164.825

I can not get to youtube at work. Search for R170 in youtube and you'll find a guy that did it. You will need some bearing press tools. These are what I used when I replaced my X164's wheel bearing.

10X164.825

EDIT: Nevermind. You'll still need the press tool to put the assembly back into the knuckle.

Mr_Sandman

This the one? Man that wasn't hard to find at all, I have been searching with SLK 230.

Thanks

Mercedes rear wheel drive axle/hub bearing replacement.. R170 shown..very long video

Mr_Sandman

This is actually not that bad of a job. Just takes patience and manpower!

1) Pull the rotor and caliper
2) Remove retaining bolt and pull the rotor,
hub is now exposed. So is the parking brake, so be careful not to damage.
3) remove the 30mm bolt on the axle
4) pull hub with a hub puller from the local auto store rental
(hub pulled the worked for me clamped on back of hub and had a rod the pushed on the axle) USE LOTS OF PB BLASTER
5) Instead of removing dust shield, I bent it down to get to the two told bolts holding on to the assembly, remove the bolts, also remove the one on the bottom, that pokes through the dust shield. This will make it so you can pull the assembly down in order to remove the axle out the back.
6) Remove the retaining clip in front of the bearing. Make sure you buy a heavy duty retaining clip tool as this one is about 3-4 inches in diameter
7) Rent a bearing puller and slide hammer from the auto store. After about ten minutes of thinking the bearing won't budge it finally starts to hammer out.
8) put the assembly back in place re-insert the three bolts. Do not tighten them down. This is just so you can hammer the new bearing in place. Put new bearing in freezer for more than an hour. Take it out, position in hub and hammer in with a wood block. You will not be able to hammer back in all the way (2lb hammer minimum). Use the old bearing to hammer in the rest of the way.
9) If you have bearing in far enough, you can now re-install the retaining clip.
10) Re-install the hub. You will need to make a tool to do this. I used one 8inch piece of allthread, three nuts, and four washers to make my own press tool. (two nuts secure two washers on the end that will go behind the bearing and on the other end the two washers will be up against the hub and you will drive the nut to press the hub in)
11) now remove the bolts from the hub assembly again so that you can pull the assembly down far enough to re-install the axle back through the bearing.
12) now you can tighten the three bolts back in place and bend the dust shield back.
13) reinstall the 30mm nut on the axle.
14) reinstall the brake caliper and then rotor.

Make sure you also use Mercedes genuine parts when it comes to the hub and hub bearing. You want the bearing to last and I found out the hard way that there are chinese knockoff parts being produced for MB that are not OE compatible and will not lineup properly.

MR E55 AMG

These are the time sert inserts on my 2001 E55 AMG..as you can see it looks like new and I drove my car over 160 mph with them on and never had ANY issues.
I know this is a old post but for anyone else having this issue I just wanted to let you know that there is a relatively easy fix. There are some insert (S) you can use and it will be like new again, so it will save you all the labor of taking off the brake calipers,drum,etc. There are a few brands out there but the best one is" Time-Sert" .You can find the whole kit on eBay from $50-$99 and it comes with all the drill bits,tap and 5 inserts.I am including a picture of my wheel hub so you can see the actual result.Hope this helps someone, good luck
.https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F19 2317332720

MR E55 AMG

Time Serts ,pic 2