There are a ton of posts about what to look for when buying an E55, but I'm wondering if you can post any nightmare stories you've experienced or heard about when buying an E55.

These things are "near bombproof" so I'm wondering, what's the worst that can happen? A new (used) engine runs from $1500 to $4000 on car-part.com, and

I've seen rebuilt 722.6 transmissions for about a grand. Of course there are other costs with replacing either of those.

But odds are you will need far less done than projects of that size, I'm guessing. Yes, there's all the standard wear items like brakes (yes, expensive but completely doable) and suspension bits. There are a few known weak points like the tranny conductor plate (but even that is a pretty darn easy fix). For this normal stuff, I'm wouldn't be opposed to getting into a discounted car and then planning to do it all. And the nice thing would be knowing it was taken care of and when.

So I'm looking for the real horror stories where someone got screwed by BIG items not on the regular list of maintenance items/known weak points.

Whadda ya got for me?

 

I bought my E55 basically sight unseen. I flew into an airport to pick it up and drove it home. Driving from the airport to drop the seller back home, the windshield washer empty light came on. When we got there, I inspected with a flashlight and thought I saw water in the under tray. Looked like a washer tank leak. I asked, and he said he'd never seen the error before and invited me to look in the garage, where there were no leak marks on the pavement.

Got home, refilled the tank, and it was fine. Until I ran the headlight washers, and then it knocked something loose and drained the whole tank.

It took me several hours of trouble shooting, and literally multiple dollars (I think I fixed the leak with teflon tape and a zip tie, cost probably in the $7 range for supplies, but amortized over the whole roll and entire bag of zip ties, probably about 10 cents). The three or so hours spent thinking I fixed it only to find it leaking again were a pain. But I saved thousands on the car. Compared to walking down to the nearest dealer and buying the cheapest AMG they had on the lot, I saved several tens of thousands.

In a ten minute test drive, you can get a pretty good idea of a car. Enough to know if it's a deal, nightmare, overpriced, average, etc. An inspection will tell you the details a test drive won't, like are the brakes at 80% or 20%. But stuff like engine and transmission you can generally tell... does it accelerate and shift right, or not?

My experience is probably fairly typical. There are some guys who overpay thousands for cream puffs, they won't be able to relate to spending 3 hours and 10 cents on fixing an issue. You won't find many who have much worse stories. The only bad story goes like this: "I put every penny I had into buying this car, and now it needs a new wheel bearing/transmission connector gasket/TPS sensor/MAF sensor." You need to look at it like this: "The moment I sign the paperwork on a new AMG, it looses 10 grand in value, and another 20 to 30 grand over the next 2 years. If I can buy an AMG for not much more than 10 grand, and it requires even a few thousand in repairs, I am still so far ahead, the car is basically free."

 

My horror story is that I only ran 13.5 quarter mile with 19 in wheels on it and bald all season tires. :P

 

Thanks for the feedback. That is kind of what my thoughts are about buying them, saintz. Moments ago I was bidding on a 99 at an online auction, sight unseen. Last week it was also on the block and got up to about $1700 but didn't reach minimum bid so they re-ran it this week.

This isn't a salvage car but it sure isn't a cream puff either. In addition to being pre-facelift, it does have a prior accident that wasn't repaired properly (they have a base model bumper on the front) and the hood had been keyed. That was all fine with me though as I wouldn't mind having a project car and one that I can mod a bit. I would hesitate to mess with a good condition car and decent factory paint as much as far as mods. Currently have an E420 as a project car but would much rather have put money into an E55 instead.

Was just feeling out the auction last week but when bidding was flat at $1700 I decided I wanted to get in on the bidding this week. I decided to go up to 3 grand but someone bid it up to $3600. Still didn't hit the minimum bid! I've seen 99's going for about $6000 and even a hair under on the private market, so I was very much out at that point for a car with more issues and that I hadn't seen in person. Auction fees and shipping would have taken the car up another grand or so.

Really bummed out as I would have gladly bought it at the right price and you don't see E55's with clean titles that need some work like this every day. Had been excited for a couple days thinking I had a shot at being in the car for $3000 total, including shipping and auction fees. At that price, I wouldn't have been thrilled had it NOT had any other major issues. Anyway, attached are some pics of the car I didn't get.

 

AMG bumper plus paint, new parts, is about $3k from a good shop. Probably another $500 to $1k to paint the hood, since they already have the paint mixed and the gun out.

If it was and is going to continue to be a daily driver, I generally don't worry too much about issues. If it's a project car, you need to approach the value and repairs in a really different way. Do you know the frame is straight and it is drivable?

 

On that car, as it looks like I'm back to doing on my E420, I'd put on the facelift AMG front and rear bumper + facelift side skirts. (Modding the front bumper to fit -- or alternatively trying to build a custom front bumper off of a W211 AMG or something). I'm also toying with having a carbon diffuser made for the back and putting in quad exhaust. I've seen a couple of cars where this has been done well (and more than a few that look awful).

I've sourced a brand new front bumper for $400 and am looking for a good used rear bumper (so far the cheapest I've found for one in decent shape is $400). I scored some side skirts for $250 for the set. I'm also planning to do some kind of widebody or at least flaring the fenders in metal a bit. For paint, body work and the fenders/widebody I'd be taking a vacation to my friend's shop in Washington state to get a bit dirty working on it with him and his guys.

So, with any car I start with, I'm already going to be doing a complete paint job on it -- I'd just much rather have started with that beat up E55 at $3000 or so. Could have sold my E420 for that much or more. But looks like that auction car isn't going for a reasonable price, and even if it comes back on the block again I don't think I'll bother as the seller obviously has too high of expectations for what it's worth, in my opinion. Like you said, there is at least a couple grand needed on bodywork and paint -- and I was also counting on all the 100K service items and more.

I may still end up with an E55 for this project but if I'm approaching private party sale values then I'll be looking for a facelift car, and probably one with a two tone interior. Or, I may just do a "mini" project on my E420 to get some experience since I have not done this stuff for awhile... see what I like, what I don't, then get an E55 facelift in a year or so and start again with the "if I were to do it all over again" list in my head from the first go-around.

The car was listed as a "run and drive" though that isn't a guarantee and isn't vouching for very much potentially either. I tried to get an inspection done on it before the auction but couldn't get someone out there in time. Nice that I didn't have that money invested on top of my hopes of winning today though.

 

CA Tallguy , it all depends on what you expect the E55 to do or to be .. if youre looking for a beater and take your time working on it and spiffing up , then get the best E55 your budget allows .. whatever you save in the purchase price you will end up paying double if not more while restoring it ...now if you just want to get into one for the least money possible then thats a different story . The E55 is the last of the handmade good ones .. no it is not the SC W211 E55 , or close to the refinement of the E63 ...but it is one damn great car ... BUT getting one from an unknown source , unknown history ...is a bit scary ...body work , ( the right way ) is expensive ... head gasket work is expensive .. interior fittings, accessories ...and ameneties are easier and one can take their time doing them ...Last ..the 2000-2002 are more updated and tend to be better cars compared to the 1999...I have four Benzes and I still cant bring myself to sell mine .. it doesnt glide effortlessly like my V12 , but it has that raw power , and it inspires confidence when I throw it into curves , or coming out of ones in very pleasant way . I am in Miami , where some W210 E55 in really good conditions still come up now and then ...A friend of mine from the forum saw one here , I checked it out for him it was mint .. got it on the truck for him in CA and he is happy as can be with his beast ... if you like I can keep an eye for one for you .
Max

 

I wouldn't be so concerned about the mechanical issues so much as I would the electrical. Those can be painstakingly hard to identify and fix.

 

maxwerks -- would love it if you'd keep your eyes open for me. I just posted in the classifieds about what I'm looking for which is kind of a restatement of some of the things I said here. https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...ork-paint.html

Basically, I've been coming up with plans to put several thousand bucks into a W210, and after pursuing the one at the auction for the last few days with research and contingency plans should I need shipping etc I've come to the realization that it makes a heck of a lot more sense to start with an E55 base for those several thousand bucks. (And it still won't really make sense to dump several grand into an E55.) I *want* to get a car with some exterior issues so (1) I don't feel bad about ruining a good factory finish with my mods and (2) that I don't pay for a factory finish that I don't need. If it needs 100K service items, I'd also rather do those myself and get a discounted car so I know exactly how and when they were done.

So, it's not an issue of what I can afford, and I'm not going to take my time in fixing it up. I'll be promptly cutting into the fenders with a grinder. Just would rather not do it to a pristine car. Of course, I'd rather not start with one where I know the unibody isn't straight or with an engine or tranny that has been abused. And if I'm paying average private party value I'm going to make sure that I don't. If I get a several thousand dollar discount, then I'm pretty willing to roll the dice and and be willing to drop a new engine in it if I need to.

But all that being said -- for someone whose goal is to own a clean E55, but all means try to buy a clean, perfect car!

But also, I went in search of horror stories about these cars and have yet to find any so that's why I started this thread. On one hand, there are dozens of threads talking about how bullet proof these cars are and on the other, there are a bunch of threads telling people to watch out for the "bad" cars and stay away from them. I can't find the threads where people got into the bad, scary cars (whether they paid too much for it is a completely different story). I've been hanging around the regular W210 section for a few years and the issues I found searching in E55 forums sound pretty much like the same things as in the regular W210 section. And I don't really recall any threads where I thought people had a car on their hands that was a lemon.

Everything can be fixed, and almost all of it in pretty low cost ways. (BTW, I'll be picking up a complete W210 door with airbags, window regulator, interior door panel, switches, glass etc etc tomorrow at the pick n pull for $39. Or I could always wait for the half price sale they are having thanksgiving weekend!)

So for purposes of this thread, I'm kind of looking for some anecdotal data to back up the "cheapest will be most costly in the long run" advice that is often handed out here. My gut tells me that applies to the early W211 twenty times more than the W210. Does anyone know of cases where people bought at the lowest of the low end and then spent more than the difference between what they paid and average market price on repairs?

 

CA TALLGUY .... PM me . or email me at max@maxwerks.com , I would love to help . Regards,
Max

 

I bought mine out of state. Had a friend look at it and verify basic condition. Sent it to a local import mechanic who did a PPI. Both said the car was very good.

However, when I got the car, the CD changer wasn't working !!! Also the rear tires were getting down to the wear bars. That's my nightmare

Well, there is more. The brakes need replacing, there is a seep from the rear main seal, the valve cover breathers are leaking oil, some of the suspension needs attention, needs spark plugs, needed air filter(s) and an oil change. Other than that, a very solid car. Luckily no electrical issues so far.

 

CD changers are BOUND to break .. the command NAV unit OEM to the W210 is crap compared to the newer models .. if not the NAV then the OEM stereo is equally weak! Rear tires ?? Of course they will wear .. when you have a car with such torque , the rears will always wear out fast ...suspension components , of course there is wear and tear .. but overall the suspension is SO much easier to work on and cost so much less than airmatic/ or ABC suspension . There is no supercharger and additional belts and pumps and heat exchangers coming to worry about ...now that I think of it .. the W210 E55 is a piece of cake complexity wise compared to others .. I know I am simplifying it only because I have taken two apart so far but really for the avid DIYer and with this forum ...it is a nice car to deal with .

 

I also saw the one for $8K in Craiglist 2000 Silver on black with salvage.
The price is right and the car looks nice with upgrade rims 19" but the mileage is high...... i think its at 148K miles now. I spoke to the owner, the brake need to be done soon. My rotors and brakes cost me $700 few weeks ago. If you buy this car, prepare to spend some $$$. at least $1500 to start. And this car will hit 150K very soon. Once the car hit 160K to 180K forget to resell...... at that mileage with Salvage title ..... unless you keep it forever until its done....... good luck !

 

I probably wouldn't get into that car unless it was closer to $6K (the one in inland empire I think you're talking about). I'd rather get into a clean title car from out of state for that much money.

Here's a 2000 (in a winter state though) for $7500. http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/2640628149.html

2002 florida car for $8500
http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/2651666566.html

2001 in ohio (close to my ideal color/feature list) for $8500
http://columbus.craigslist.org/ctd/2701596083.html

But still, all these cars are STILL probably too clean for what I'm looking for. Would love to buy one of these that just got sideswiped in a parking lot! Maybe at $5K or even less?

 

if u really want a cheap E55 for project car then the $7500 is perfect for you. But with the shipping cost will be around $8k or u fly out there and drive it back...... Good luck !

Yes the one i was talking about, the guy still want for that salvage for $8k. He bought un-repair at $4k. But that car with salvage title and mileage only worth $7k top. You are right, $6k is more reasonable since u still need to spend some cash to replace brakes and who knows whats next !

 

I agree with maxwerks' sentiments below re: the nav unit, stereo, and cd changers.

I recently replaced all my tires using Michelin PS2. I never really like to experiment with tires since they're the ones that makes contact on the road.
Whatever the manufacturer recommends on tires, I usually follow. But they are so damn expensive. Oh well.

 

Damn, those are high mileage E55's. I recently saw one for sale in the SF bay area but the asking price was a bit too much in my opinion. However it only has 75k miles.

 

That is a good point. Hadn't looked at the miles terribly closely on those before posting, but I have decided that I want something closer to 100K MAX, maybe a hair over.

There is one near me at around the same price point with over 200K... like 2001/2002. That's just obscene for someone to do that to an E55. If something about my life required me to drive that much my daily driver would be an S500 or something (especially since I am 6'8" tall).

 

I have a 2001 E55 with more miles on it then the cars in the links ... it still runs like a scolded dog ... and you will not buy mine for 8k... I changed the head lights to a more updated look
and I just had to replace the cats ... still a few things to replace but miles is one thing you shouldn't be worried about after all e55 or not it is a Mercedes .... one thing I wish I had done was wait and buy a newer one .... that 489 hp sounds so sweet ,, I would Love to pull up to a stoplight and Smoke a new camaro or vette .... if it makes you feel any better about miles mine is 178k and still runs like a top ...

 

Jacko, What lights did you upgrade to? My 2001 lights are pretty foggy. Xenon.
Thanks,

 

OEMs will ALWAYS fade there is no way around it ... best upgrade is a pair of DEPO headlights modified to accept the HID Xenon projectors from a W211 guts and ballasts as per Zam2000 upgrade .. read about them in the W210 forum, the lenses ( Plastic ) will also fade in time but can be maintained by polish or better yet clear coat.

 

Is there a 1 stop shop where you can buy a plug and play unit instead of scavenging for mix and match?
I would love to find 2 Depo headlight units and just switch over from the factory units I have.
Any ideas? Many thanks in advance.

 

As I move into the AMG W210 world I was wondering about this upgrade. I've done it on my E420 but don't all the E55's have factory xenon? Isn't that an option worth keeping since I assume factory has the level adjustment functionality?

Or, is there a way to use some of the factory xenon components in a depo upgrade?

 

Max is right -- if you do the upgrade, there is no substitute for the zam method for BEST results. Otherwise, I think there are places that do sell "plug and play" housings but (without looking into the details to know for sure) I think they maybe more of a quickie setup. The zam method uses high quality projector optics, not the cheap depo stock projectors that are not optimized for xenon.

 

There is no escaping that these are machines, and machines wear. I'm certainly not saying that these cars are near the end of their life approaching 200k. Just saying that lower miles are better, and worth a premium. How much of a premium? Not sure if I know until I have a few options laid out in front of me and I have to decide.

The 100K mark is a pretty important one as things like the tranny need to be serviced. I'd prefer to get into a car that is at the most not too far past that mark so I can be sure all the proper stuff is done.

And I think we'd all prefer to get the car that was NOT a daily driver for a good chunk of time for someone. Some people will pay a huge premium for that. I'll try to get that at a more reasonable premium. I just may luck out and get one at auction with low miles and there the premium would probably be negligible. I'm going to be patient for the right car at a great price.