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Getting into my car going home and saw a screw stuck on the right back side of my tire. I drove to the indie tire place I know and the guy told me a few more inches up the sidewall, I would be in **** creek twenty minutes and $15.95 later I drove home
That tire is technically junk, he should have never repaired it. If I were u, I'd replace it ASAP
I mean..it may not leak, but it's definitely not right and a potential safety issue
Hot rodding, or not hot rodding, I wouldn't drive that around the block. Better to be safe than sorry, Snooozie my friend. We want to see you around here for a while. It's not worth it, and the shop was dead wrong for fixing it.
86 190D (Exported to the Nerderlands), 87 300TD (Sold), 82 Ford F150 3spd, 99 E300D (RIP), 02 E55
Originally Posted by benzokirk
Hot rodding, or not hot rodding, I wouldn't drive that around the block. Better to be safe than sorry, Snooozie my friend. We want to see you around here for a while. It's not worth it, and the shop was dead wrong for fixing it.
I'll look for another tire and use this one as a spare.
More of what my E55 did to me. Can you spot whats wrong with this pic?
Felt resistance upon taking off from a light then suddenly it takes off then my red alternator light goes off in the notification center. Idler disintegrated.
Saw a difference in smoothness after repair. Also my AC performed more efficiently with new belt, idler pulley and tensioner.
Glad you got it worked out. Gentlemen I highly recommend changing your idle pully & tensioner of your in the 80-90k+ range. Obv change the belt while your in there. This is about the lifespan and you don't want to break down (not a good look). Add it your list
Snoozie - besides the plug tires look like they have 50 miles left time for some fresh sneakers. Come to the 285\35\18 for the rears
Originally Posted by Tall Giraffe
More of what my E55 did to me. Can you spot whats wrong with this pic?
Felt resistance upon taking off from a light then suddenly it takes off then my red alternator light goes off in the notification center. Idler disintegrated.
Saw a difference in smoothness after repair. Also my AC performed more efficiently with new belt, idler pulley and tensioner.
When I purchased my car 2 years ago the right, rear door sill plate was attached, but loose. Just got around to fixing it today.
I pried the plate up and off with a plastic pry tool. It was held on with just 1 of 3 male/female clips. I removed all 3 male clips from the sill plate and the 3 female clips from the door sill (2 clips still had the broken male parts inserted).
There was a wax-like substance around both sets of clips. I used 6 new clips and a minimal amount of silicone as a substitute for the wax substance. It is a little tricky to remove the old clips from the sill plate. They slide along a set of rails down the length of the plate. I used a small screwdriver and basically broke the clips that came out in several pieces.
Once all of the new clips and silicone were in place, I had to get eye level with the sill in order to align the clips and they popped right in.
The part numbers are:
Male clips: 001-988-97-81
Female clips:001 988-76-81
The bare door sill showing 2 of 3 female clips. The 2 clips have the broken male parts stuck in them. The 3rd female clip came off with the sill plate, attached to the male clip.
This is the underside of the sill plate. Two of the male parts are missing, broken off in the door sill. The 3rd male clip is attached with the female clip on it.
This is the door sill with all of the female clips removed.
The door sill with all 3 new female clips installed.
86 190D (Exported to the Nerderlands), 87 300TD (Sold), 82 Ford F150 3spd, 99 E300D (RIP), 02 E55
Fixed Loose Right Rear Door Sill Plate
Is that the bottom plate? My driver's side plate with the Mercedes name on it is missing (broken off) I thought you have to get to the underside to take out the plastic clips. But from what you said, they are just pop in on the top surface. So, all I have to do is pry them out and put new ones in? Might just do that so the car looks nicer when I open the door I'll have to get a new Mercedes name plate too because it was missing when I got the car.
Is that the bottom plate? My driver's side plate with the Mercedes name on it is missing (broken off) I thought you have to get to the underside to take out the plastic clips. But from what you said, they are just pop in on the top surface. So, all I have to do is pry them out and put new ones in? Might just do that so the car looks nicer when I open the door I'll have to get a new Mercedes name plate too because it was missing when I got the car.
Sorry about that, snoozie, I see how my pics can be confusing. I will try to label my pics with descriptions.
So are you just missing the Mercedes part of the front plate? Meaning it is two separate parts? Or is your entire front plate missing? Do you just see 3 holes where the plate should be? The rear plate is just once piece. Yes, you just pry it straight up and off revealing the probably broken 3 male clips on the underside.
I'm not sure how the front sill plate is attached. I assumed it was attached just like the rear plate, but of course I could be wrong. I will have a look at mine in a minute.
86 190D (Exported to the Nerderlands), 87 300TD (Sold), 82 Ford F150 3spd, 99 E300D (RIP), 02 E55
Originally Posted by ddb
So are you just missing the Mercedes part of the front plate? Meaning it is two separate parts? Or is your entire front plate missing? Do you just see 3 holes where the plate should be? The rear plate is just once piece. Yes, you just pry it straight up and off revealing the probably broken 3 male clips on the underside.
I'm not sure how the front sill plate is attached. I assumed it was attached just like the rear plate, but of course I could be wrong. I will have a look at mine in a minute.
My whole front plate is missing, like your first picture. I have the white plastic round things (female) with the male part broken and stuck in the 3 holes. You give me a good understanding of how to fix the problem because I always thought that I have to get under the bottom to take the plastic pieces off. The back plate is the same as the front plate except without the "Mercedes" name.
My whole front plate is missing, like your first picture. I have the white plastic round things (female) with the male part broken and stuck in the 3 holes. You give me a good understanding of how to fix the problem because I always thought that I have to get under the bottom to take the plastic pieces off. The back plate is the same as the front plate except without the "Mercedes" name.
Got it. Do you have the missing front plate? Sounds like installation is the same as the rear, from topside.
86 190D (Exported to the Nerderlands), 87 300TD (Sold), 82 Ford F150 3spd, 99 E300D (RIP), 02 E55
Little cosmetic work today
Finally put the rail plate on the driver's side the plate cost me $95 but it came with all the clips attached. That saves me $20 on the three stupid overprice clips.
86 190D (Exported to the Nerderlands), 87 300TD (Sold), 82 Ford F150 3spd, 99 E300D (RIP), 02 E55
Originally Posted by turbo1k
Could you please post a pic of the lip from a few feet back and from the side. It look good something i may consider for mine. Thanks
Steve
www.ezlip.com
I got the EZLip Pro which sells for $54.99 when you check out use coupon code GETLOW and you will get a discount for $10 off hence I got mine shipped for $44.99 I have been using The older one for a few years now so not bad for the price.
washed it and took a pic before too much pollen got back on it. Also installed the shades for the back seats. Planning to order springs for it soon, not liking the 4x4 look.
04-21-2015, 06:20 PM
twenty minutes and $15.95 later I drove home
