It's got a scraping sound now and the rotor is hot to the touch.

Just to let you know what happened-
I was trying to pull the wheel off to check for a puncture and the jack rolled. The the lugs were out, but the wheel wasn't off. The pressure of the slow impact pushed the wheel off, but had something to rest on. I jacked it back up and put the wheel back on. After that, it felt like the brake was engaged a bit. Now, I've got an scraping sound that comes and goes and as i've said, the rotor is hot to the touch.

Do you think I have bent the rotor or did the brake pad get pushed in an odd direction? I've never done a brake job, so I don't really know what to look for..


Another Question: I don't trust the jack that came with the car now. Is there a good point (since the jackpoint is covered in plastic on the underside) where I can jack it up with the floor jack? I've seen a picture where somebody has removed the plastic from the jack tube to expose the jack point under it.

Thanks for any input in advance.

I should add that it's a 2001 E55 AMG

It happen to me same in the rear tires, there is a steel cover over the disc, that might me bended and touching the disc, remove wheel and inspect which flashlight thats all clear. You can fix it with your hands if cold, it bends pretty easy.

Look in your owners manual to see the proper way to use your jack. Never rely on the jack when working on your car. Use jack stands or wood blocks to support the vehicle.

^^What he said and sounds like the dust shield it rubbing on the rotor.

Dust shield rubbing on the rotor X3.

I jack the rear of my car from the rear diff housing, does the entire rear in 1 shot, and leaves the sides clear to place jackstands under the rubber pads.

I need a better/longer jack with the one I have now the car is too low to move and handle enough to lift the car from the diff.

I need to drive my front tires up on some chunks of 2x6 that I've named "Benz Blocks TM" in order to get my jack under the nose far enough to reach the jacking point, but I can reach the rear diff even with the front up on jackstands, and on the wagon the muffler hangs width-wise across the rear of the car.

You can retire your wood blocks. Buy a low profile aluminum jack, they are light and easy to use.

That's what I'm using, but the front lip on the car is still too low to get the jack under without first driving up onto the blocks. I have a Michelin branded version of this unit:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mo...1036p.html#srp

There are lower profile versions, but I also own 2 4x4 SUV's that need to be lifted high to get the weight off the tires, and keeping the blocks around makes more sense than buying another jack that I'd only use on the car.

Ian, I used to do the same as you, until I brought a 2 ton Sears aluminum racing jack, the front is less than 4", I can push the jack under most vehicles. However, I do have to put a wood block to lift my pickup or Range Rover, these trucks have higher off ground frame.

If I have to choose between driving up on wooden blocks or jacking with a wooden block on the jack saddle, I'll choose driving up on the blocks every time. Much safer alternative given the 2 choices IMO.

Wood blocks are actually pretty secure for jacking. They have a good coefficient of friction against the rubber pads and the jack saddle bites into the wood. I would never work on a car without jack stands or ramps, though.