Any W210 55 isssues
02-19-2021, 06:53 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Any W210 55 isssues
have a W213 E63S as my daily driver! looking to buy a W210 55 anything i should look out for before buying that can go wrong with them that would be a walk away from any car? any replies would be appreciated!
02-19-2021, 09:38 AM
#2
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E55, GLS450, GL63, GLE350
Oil cooler leaks but it is a simple and relatively cheap DIY. There is also a small block off plate in the front where the seal will start to leak but, again, cheap and easy to replace. Tranny's are good for 200k miles. Just shock, struts, AC compressors, and rubber mounts/pieces need replacement. It's the Toyota of AMG's.
02-22-2021, 04:17 PM
#4
Super Member
Oil cooler leaks but it is a simple and relatively cheap DIY. There is also a small block off plate in the front where the seal will start to leak but, again, cheap and easy to replace. Tranny's are good for 200k miles. Just shock, struts, AC compressors, and rubber mounts/pieces need replacement. It's the Toyota of AMG's.
02-23-2021, 04:57 AM
#5
Super Member
Thread Starter
drivers seat doesn’t work any ideas what to look for would be appreciated 👍👍
02-24-2021, 06:07 PM
#6
Member
Congrats, sounds like a good price!
Here's my takes:
- typical 20 year old car issues (pixels, bulbs, sticky/finicky switches etc) all of which are very minor and livable.
- catalytic converters are probably close to disintegrating, be ready for that. Good excuse to de-cat and go to headers if you're into that.
- I went through and replaced every piece of rubber under the car (arms, subframe, brake lines etc). It's just about the easiest car I've ever worked on, did all but the subframe myself in a garage with hand tools, and that all made a WORLD of difference in road feel. New rubber was night and day tighter (and tire wear improved dramatically).
- PCV hoses along the top side were rotting out on mine, easy fix.
- I flushed all the fluids, can a couple cans of quality engine and top end cleaner through it since the ownership history was long and questionable.
As others have said, the drivetrains are quite durable and simple to work on. It might sweat a little horsepower here and there, the valve covers seem especially problematic due to their goofy shape.
Re: the drivers seat...which functions? If you're talking about the power adjustments via the door switch, usually the door switch is the culprit (drivers door opens most, solder breaks, contact goes bad); if you're talking about the air bladders adjusted via the dials between seat and console...good luck. I've been in 3 of these cars and non worked.
I'm at 192k daily driven miles and counting. I love seeing the low mileage ones go sky high at auction, but these cars were made to be driven. The more and harder I drive it, the better it seems to treat me. Enjoy your new ride!
Here's my takes:
- typical 20 year old car issues (pixels, bulbs, sticky/finicky switches etc) all of which are very minor and livable.
- catalytic converters are probably close to disintegrating, be ready for that. Good excuse to de-cat and go to headers if you're into that.
- I went through and replaced every piece of rubber under the car (arms, subframe, brake lines etc). It's just about the easiest car I've ever worked on, did all but the subframe myself in a garage with hand tools, and that all made a WORLD of difference in road feel. New rubber was night and day tighter (and tire wear improved dramatically).
- PCV hoses along the top side were rotting out on mine, easy fix.
- I flushed all the fluids, can a couple cans of quality engine and top end cleaner through it since the ownership history was long and questionable.
As others have said, the drivetrains are quite durable and simple to work on. It might sweat a little horsepower here and there, the valve covers seem especially problematic due to their goofy shape.
Re: the drivers seat...which functions? If you're talking about the power adjustments via the door switch, usually the door switch is the culprit (drivers door opens most, solder breaks, contact goes bad); if you're talking about the air bladders adjusted via the dials between seat and console...good luck. I've been in 3 of these cars and non worked.
I'm at 192k daily driven miles and counting. I love seeing the low mileage ones go sky high at auction, but these cars were made to be driven. The more and harder I drive it, the better it seems to treat me. Enjoy your new ride!
03-02-2021, 07:04 AM
#7
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W211 E55
Congrats, sounds like a good price!
Here's my takes:
- typical 20 year old car issues (pixels, bulbs, sticky/finicky switches etc) all of which are very minor and livable.
- catalytic converters are probably close to disintegrating, be ready for that. Good excuse to de-cat and go to headers if you're into that.
- I went through and replaced every piece of rubber under the car (arms, subframe, brake lines etc). It's just about the easiest car I've ever worked on, did all but the subframe myself in a garage with hand tools, and that all made a WORLD of difference in road feel. New rubber was night and day tighter (and tire wear improved dramatically).
- PCV hoses along the top side were rotting out on mine, easy fix.
- I flushed all the fluids, can a couple cans of quality engine and top end cleaner through it since the ownership history was long and questionable.
As others have said, the drivetrains are quite durable and simple to work on. It might sweat a little horsepower here and there, the valve covers seem especially problematic due to their goofy shape.
Re: the drivers seat...which functions? If you're talking about the power adjustments via the door switch, usually the door switch is the culprit (drivers door opens most, solder breaks, contact goes bad); if you're talking about the air bladders adjusted via the dials between seat and console...good luck. I've been in 3 of these cars and non worked.
I'm at 192k daily driven miles and counting. I love seeing the low mileage ones go sky high at auction, but these cars were made to be driven. The more and harder I drive it, the better it seems to treat me. Enjoy your new ride!
Here's my takes:
- typical 20 year old car issues (pixels, bulbs, sticky/finicky switches etc) all of which are very minor and livable.
- catalytic converters are probably close to disintegrating, be ready for that. Good excuse to de-cat and go to headers if you're into that.
- I went through and replaced every piece of rubber under the car (arms, subframe, brake lines etc). It's just about the easiest car I've ever worked on, did all but the subframe myself in a garage with hand tools, and that all made a WORLD of difference in road feel. New rubber was night and day tighter (and tire wear improved dramatically).
- PCV hoses along the top side were rotting out on mine, easy fix.
- I flushed all the fluids, can a couple cans of quality engine and top end cleaner through it since the ownership history was long and questionable.
As others have said, the drivetrains are quite durable and simple to work on. It might sweat a little horsepower here and there, the valve covers seem especially problematic due to their goofy shape.
Re: the drivers seat...which functions? If you're talking about the power adjustments via the door switch, usually the door switch is the culprit (drivers door opens most, solder breaks, contact goes bad); if you're talking about the air bladders adjusted via the dials between seat and console...good luck. I've been in 3 of these cars and non worked.
I'm at 192k daily driven miles and counting. I love seeing the low mileage ones go sky high at auction, but these cars were made to be driven. The more and harder I drive it, the better it seems to treat me. Enjoy your new ride!
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03-02-2021, 12:21 PM
#8
Member
I use Pelican Parts and FCP Euro, if you're in So Cal, Pelican parts is usually a little faster. FCP has nice warranty. Both are great companies. I usually buy OEM or similar parts, unless there is high quality aftermarket stuff (IE brake pads and lines, engine mounts etc).
