hilsman

Hi,

I've composed a list of nitrous data for those contemplating its use in our 2003-2005 E-55's...

(1) Nitrous in and of itself is safe, its inflammable, an oxidizer, another alternative to power and relatively cheap

(2) I will speak only of "dry" setups, I am uncertain at this time of adding a mixture of gasoline and nitrous to our superchargers...supposedly the bearings are safe for fuel but I don't have enough data

(3) Use a little not a lot...there are Corvettes spraing 250 HP dry using only their MAF to stabilize A/F ratios...this scares me. A 35-50 shot (RWHP)is only a small relative increase and does not tax our injectors....so I'm only talking small numbers at least at this point! We do not have a MAF sensor and rely on charge air temp and pressure but it ends up working similarly

(4) Use added octane...I have little use for octane boosters but adding a 50/50 mix of 93 and 100 or 104 adds a nice cushion against detonation

(5) Use a TPS tap to trigger nitrous...this will certainly help if the computer decides to cut the fuel e.g. it may do this if it detects wheelspin so if you don't go into dyno mode this is the safest solution...you could as I do only spray in the upper gears where wheelspin is not so much an issue

(6) Check A/F ratios..I have an onboard analyzer from Innovate which allows me to "see" the ratios as I'm driving and log them as well...using above rec'd shots I've not even recorded the usual initial lean spike and my ratios have been no greater than high 11's

(7) I would not rec'd nitrous for those who have done ECU upgrades...without nitrous at WOT I'm running a bit rich which makes this setup work...if the ECU has been changed and has leaned out your A/F's you could be asking for real trouble

(8) Make sure everything else works....up to par injectors, fully functiong fuel pump pressure ( or use fuel pressure cut off as I do), spark plugs fresh, ets.

(9) Be careful about running through transmission shifts...I dont's think this is a problem with a 50 HP shot but would be with more

(10) An EGT probe is not a bad idea either and I'm thinking of adding this soon

(11) Because this is a dry system bottle pressure is not as critical and low pressure would only result in less power not the dreaded wet system backfire

(12) This is not something you will use frequently so engine life per se should not be an issue

(13) Since I'm a doctor I will run medical grade N2O which does not add sulphur ( so you can't use it to get high)..therefore eliminating any sulphur residue which a dealership "might" be able to detect...I'm somewhat skeptical of this "residue" issue but since I can use medical grade I will

(14) There is no need for "tricker" boxes with this amount of nitrous

(15) My set up is completely removable in 5 mins so trips to the dealership do not influence warranty

I'm sure there's more but this should help...Gray

vraa

Nice list.

Just wondering, do you hit it in 4th gear or higher? Or also in the lower gears?

hilsman

Third gear and up...once I get TPS sensor wired I'll go the lower gears

vraa

Wicked nice. Do you have any videos of you running with the juice?

hilsman

No but you would need something to give perspective anyway...wish I had one of the M-5 encounter....

vraa

Well, I just want to hear it

DerekFSU

Great info Doc. Thanks. Ever run it at the track?

saber

Good summary
Please take special note of point (7) "I would not rec'd nitrous for those who have done ECU upgrades...without nitrous at WOT I'm running a bit rich which makes this setup work...if the ECU has been changed and has leaned out your A/F's you could be asking for real trouble"
You cannot use a dry nitro shot with the ECU upgrade because the fuel mixture is too lean.
Another big advantage to nitrous is the cooling effect on the air charge.

hilsman

Yes, I have a friend with air strip than he has set up with timing lights...best motor only run was 12.17....my Escort/Passport G meter showed 12.08 as I recall on this run...this was using a 24 in rollout. Using gas I ran 11.75 on the Escort meter....this on stock Conti's at 25#'s. I believe my setup with BFG's, on a properly prepped dragstrip and good air would be at least as good as I got on the Escort.

DerekFSU

Doc, please proceed to a dragstrip immediately. Do not pass go, do not collect $200. Then, drive that beast to Atlanta for the end of April AMG meet, dyno day, and drag runs.

vraa

He'll probably spend $200 in gas going to the ATL.

BenzoBoi

Do you have any pics of the set up?

BMWEATR

post some pics of the install,. is the bottle in the trunk? hows the nos fuel line ran?etc

thanks

vrus

You summarized everything quite well.. The only issue I have with your post is this part:

You are right that NO2 is not flammable but there is a danger to it. If you apply excessive heat to the bottle it WILL EXPLODE. In other words, don't be involved in a car crash where there are open flames and a nitrous bottle.

Just wanted to add this small tidbit of info...

GTA23109a

Nitrous bottles only "explode" when dip****s block off the burst disk that is on the side of the valve on EVERY nitrous bottle. I've had these valves pop on me before (for various reasons) in my drag car and, besides being noisy, the result is not at all violent. Literally, the WORST thing that happens is you lose the full tank of nitrous and have to find another burst disk.

hilsman

OK here goes...all mounting points are already there...used two super powershot nitrous solenoids on NOS mounting brackets...they attach to two 8 mm bolts just in front of the air intakes in front of radiator, the lines are 12" long and run from the solenoid into the snorkle tubes through the intakes ( I have removed all redundant material in front of intakes) they attach to two single nitrous nozzles wit.024-30 nitrous jets. The bottle is one of three...if you use the ten # bottle you need to mount in trunk or passenger compartment. I use either a 1# or a 10oz mounted in front of the radiator...I bought several so there's always a spare handy. The wiring is simple, I grounded the solenoids at the hood release(already has holes in sheet metal)...below that is the safety style arming switch. I ran the wiring through a grommet on the driver's side and into the fuse box for + and
grounded to frame for ON switch..will have TPS switch wired later this week.
The two solenoids are joined by two 12" lines that connect to a tee mounted at the base of the center hood latch structure...then a 12" line runs to the botttle....voila.

I made a few more runs this evening and on my Escort which has proved incredibly accurate against the lights...using ESP on and loading the Conti's to 1250rpm's with 25# pressure I ran 11.95@118.4 in 60 degree air and 65% humidity...my 60' times were the best I've ever run 1.77, 1/8 7.80@91.9...0-60 in 3.87 and 0-100 in 8.77. The motor had cooled for an hour and it felt like the strongest run I'd ever made on motor.


I let it cool another hour and ran with spray in third and fourth and ran 11.70@120.7....granted I don"t completely trust the Escort but it has been within1-2% of the lights. This car has always felt quite strong and I suspect with the luck of the draw I got a good motor from AMG.

I truly believe with the right tires, weather and a lighter driver this car could run under 11.50 on a properly groomed strip with gas.

May the E-55 force be with you...Gray

.

BMWEATR

post a pick!!!!!!! we need pics bust the digi camera out Doc!