K2/lsd/bfg dr ran 13.06 and 13.10 1/4mile?????
My track runs 4300ft and with K2 and Drag Rads only could eek out mid 12's.
It's just life at high elevation with the beast.
Now when you run at Moroso or Sacramento (elevation like 5 ft) and run 13, then I would say you have problems.
If there is any GOOD news, it's that at high elevation, you are running super rich which for running NOS is suh-weeeeetttt. Wink wink...
PS....per NHRA table, at sea level you ran 12.3. That ain't shabby considering 90+F.
http://www.nhra.com/tech_specs/altitude.html
Last edited by Jakpro1; Jun 24, 2006 at 09:36 PM.
90 degree day plus 5K in altitude is what is getting your 13's
I ran my cls55 for the first time in san antonio an ran an 12.8 stock, i found you MUST slowly get into the throttle to avoid roasting the tire at launch. when i got into it hard the next run i spun the tires 100 yards down the track and got a 14 second run -LOL
LAUNCH IS EVERYTHING at the track, experiment a bit and see what works best. remember practice makes perfect and with out it you will not see improvement on a consistant level.
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From my own experience, I would say it is close to impossible to spin up to 60mph with DR's as you have posted. Having had a K2/wLSD car on DR's it would hook up like you are launching into space. If you can go to streetfire.net under MB and you can see some of my passes and burnouts with DR's. As you can see in my sig, the car hooks hard and fast
btw - Was in Atlanta on business last week and spoke to the new owner of my car who went ahead and installed the TB that I was about to get from Cory. He has bested my time in the 1/4 to 11.3x and over 125mph.
He also has has 4 speeding tickets over the past 6 months and his insurance has gone up over $1k
On my car in street mode with the DR's and front tires set at 35 psi (cold) my traction light will flash all the way up until 45-55 mph and the car would feel slow. I KNOW I'm not spinning at that speed. After thinking about it the 275 DR's are slightly larger than the stock rears (same size as the fronts though). To try to simulate the OE size difference I decided to increase the fronts to the max reccomended 41 psi cold and try things again. Since the change traction control has been MUCH more realistic and doesn't step in except for really low speeds at full throttle.
It seems like the something that small wouldn't be noticed by the ESP computer but my traction light doesn't lie. I'm just glad I was able to keep the pressure on the sane side while keeping the ESP out of my business. I didn't want to run any less than 35 psi (cold) in the DR's and I didn't want to over-inflate the fronts to more than 41 psi.
Ted







