Self Oil Change ??? Need Help !!!
09-17-2008, 12:43 AM
#26
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2005 E55 AMG
You really shouldn't be posting this sort of erroneous information.
I had already planned to change my oil today, and proceeded to do so this afternoon. Thanks to Mr. Rotary Lift in my garage, accessibility is a non-issue.
I also have the luxury of time required to let the engine oil drain completely. Here's the process I follow. First, remove the oil filler cap. Next, unscrew the oil filter cap assembly enough to let the oil drain from the filter housing back down into the block. Then remove the oil filter assembly. Once those steps are done, the car is ready to go up into the air.
Once up, you remove the two rearward engine shields, exposing both the rear and front drain plugs. I drain the rear main pan first, and I let warm oil (always change the oil after it's warmed up) drain until it stops dripping (approximately 10 - 15 minutes). Then I install a new drain plug with copper washer and torque it to the specified torque. Then I remove the front drain plug and watch as easily close to another quart drains out. That's right, it's not just a few ounces, it's alot. Next time, for grins, I might measure it to be precise about the amount, but it's way more than a few ounces. Once the front drain stops dripping, it too gets a new plug and washer torqued to specification. The drain plugs have a sealant coating on the threads; there is no risk of causing leaks by replacing drain plugs - again, bad information. You will get a leak if you strip the threads on the pan, but just changing the drain plug isn't going to cause wear that will result in a leak; that's nonsense.
Then you simply reinstall the engine shields, lower the car, install a new oil filter and replace the 4 rubber Orings on the filter holder shaft and torque oil filter cap assembly to specification. Lastly, fill the engine with 8.75 qts. of the specified Mobil 1 of the proper viscosity. Then start it up and let it idle for a minute or so, and shut it off. Wait about five minutes, and then get out the factory oil dipstick tool and add just enough oil to bring it up to the specified reading on the tool (this step usually uses up most of the remaining .25 qts. remaining out of the called for 9 qts. with a filter replacement), but the dipstick tool is more precise than the dash readout. Replace the dipstick hole cover, close the hood, and you're good to go, knowing you didn't leave nearly a quart of old oil in the forward area of the pan, that the filter, drain plugs, and other fasteners are torqued to the correct specification and that there aren't any other issues underneath the car, because you gave it the once-over while you were allowing the old oil to fully drain.
I had already planned to change my oil today, and proceeded to do so this afternoon. Thanks to Mr. Rotary Lift in my garage, accessibility is a non-issue.
I also have the luxury of time required to let the engine oil drain completely. Here's the process I follow. First, remove the oil filler cap. Next, unscrew the oil filter cap assembly enough to let the oil drain from the filter housing back down into the block. Then remove the oil filter assembly. Once those steps are done, the car is ready to go up into the air.
Once up, you remove the two rearward engine shields, exposing both the rear and front drain plugs. I drain the rear main pan first, and I let warm oil (always change the oil after it's warmed up) drain until it stops dripping (approximately 10 - 15 minutes). Then I install a new drain plug with copper washer and torque it to the specified torque. Then I remove the front drain plug and watch as easily close to another quart drains out. That's right, it's not just a few ounces, it's alot. Next time, for grins, I might measure it to be precise about the amount, but it's way more than a few ounces. Once the front drain stops dripping, it too gets a new plug and washer torqued to specification. The drain plugs have a sealant coating on the threads; there is no risk of causing leaks by replacing drain plugs - again, bad information. You will get a leak if you strip the threads on the pan, but just changing the drain plug isn't going to cause wear that will result in a leak; that's nonsense.
Then you simply reinstall the engine shields, lower the car, install a new oil filter and replace the 4 rubber Orings on the filter holder shaft and torque oil filter cap assembly to specification. Lastly, fill the engine with 8.75 qts. of the specified Mobil 1 of the proper viscosity. Then start it up and let it idle for a minute or so, and shut it off. Wait about five minutes, and then get out the factory oil dipstick tool and add just enough oil to bring it up to the specified reading on the tool (this step usually uses up most of the remaining .25 qts. remaining out of the called for 9 qts. with a filter replacement), but the dipstick tool is more precise than the dash readout. Replace the dipstick hole cover, close the hood, and you're good to go, knowing you didn't leave nearly a quart of old oil in the forward area of the pan, that the filter, drain plugs, and other fasteners are torqued to the correct specification and that there aren't any other issues underneath the car, because you gave it the once-over while you were allowing the old oil to fully drain.
Exactly my method except i let both drain holes drain for about an hour while i'm doing other things. Also i use magnetic drain plugs, as well as this handy oil funnel that screws in like an oil cap, has a huge capacity. As far as the oil filter cap remover, you can get the B type from vatozone for $4.99 & it works perfectly.
09-17-2008, 12:48 AM
#27
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2006 CLS55 AMG
What exactly is the specified torque for the drain plugs underneath and for the oil filter housing? I am going to change my oil tomorrow & I can't seem to find the exact numbers.
GRAFH: Where did you get that neat funnel from?
GRAFH: Where did you get that neat funnel from?
09-17-2008, 05:56 PM
#28
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2005 E55 AMG
Actually according to the service manual for the 113.990 engine, if you want to run mobil 1 0w-40 is recommended. If you want to run another brand the following weights are recommended:
09-27-2008, 10:01 PM
#29
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Just finished changing mine.
Some after thoughts - get one of these at your local autoparts store:
It will help remove the filter housing easily. I suggest wrapping a small towel around the housing first so as to not scratch it. When you get it loose to hand loosen it, unscrew it just enough until you hear the oil draining out. Once you can't hear any more (30 seconds), then you can remove it. This way you won't spill any oil.
Also, about 1/2-3/4 qt came out of the front pan. It's a tight fit with the wrench, so have some patience.
Other than that, all the other info in this thread is good enough to get it done.
Some after thoughts - get one of these at your local autoparts store:
It will help remove the filter housing easily. I suggest wrapping a small towel around the housing first so as to not scratch it. When you get it loose to hand loosen it, unscrew it just enough until you hear the oil draining out. Once you can't hear any more (30 seconds), then you can remove it. This way you won't spill any oil.
Also, about 1/2-3/4 qt came out of the front pan. It's a tight fit with the wrench, so have some patience.
Other than that, all the other info in this thread is good enough to get it done.
09-27-2008, 11:09 PM
#30
Why would you remove the filter housing for an oil and filter change? If you mean the black plastic cover that holds the fleece filter, get the fitted tool mentioned in one of the threads above. Plus, it enables you to retorque the cap to the correct specification. If you really do mean the entire oil filter housing, then you're doing way more than you need to. 
Last edited by komp55; 09-29-2008 at 06:51 AM.
09-28-2008, 12:44 AM
#31
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Why would you remove the filter housing for an oil and filter change? If you mean the black plastic cover that holds the fleece filter, get the fitted tool mentioned in one of the threads above. Plus, it enables you to retorque the cap to the correct specification. If you really do mean the entire oil filter housing, then you're doing way more than you need to.
Last edited by str8ridin; 09-28-2008 at 12:47 AM.
04-11-2009, 09:57 PM
#33
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I just measured it. It's exactly 1/2 a quart or 16 oz according to the bottle that I put it back in.
At least, that is what came out of mine this morning after letting it sit for .5 an hour. Nevertheless, worth it to drain imo. Thanks for your write up... followed it again today and it helped.
And BTW, for those reading this thread and about to change the oil yourself, the prices of oil seemd to go up! Walmart had my Mobil 1 0W40 for $6.97 a quart! My total cost of oil/plugs/filter was $95+! Makes me wonder what the dealer is charging now...
04-24-2009, 04:03 PM
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2002 BMW M5, 1992 AWD DSM, 1988 Yamaha FZR1000
I just did this (went through the FSS menu as described) and now it says "Service interval not possible" and "service menu not possible" when I try to get back into the menu.
What in the world?
What in the world?
04-24-2009, 09:34 PM
#35
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Go back into the FSS and reset the service interval. Be patient, if you press button after button you are guaranteed a trip to the stealer.
04-24-2009, 10:01 PM
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E-ZGO 53hp., 1999 E 430 sport, 2004 E 55, 2008 Tahoe LTZ on 24"s
MB approved oil
Last edited by Yacht Master; 04-24-2009 at 10:09 PM.
05-31-2009, 06:18 PM
#38
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E55 then E63, now back to an E55
Time to reset my service indicator on 63.....
Every time in the past I did it, hitting the reset button would clear my trip odometer as well.
I do not want to clear my trip odometer this time, is there a trick (i.e. hit reset quickly, hold reset, etc)
Thanks.....
I do not want to clear my trip odometer this time, is there a trick (i.e. hit reset quickly, hold reset, etc)
Thanks.....
05-31-2009, 09:23 PM
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'15 E63S wagon
Awesome info guys, thank you! This is a reference thread if I've ever seen one, excellent data & info here.
BTW, the title of this thread made me laugh out loud.
Maybe I have a twisted mind, but still...
BTW, the title of this thread made me laugh out loud.
Maybe I have a twisted mind, but still...
08-03-2009, 10:09 PM
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09 c63 blk/blk H&R Springs & 08 e 63 blk/blk
GREAT thread. So just to be certain, an extractor may be used on a 63 to extract ALL the oil (unlike the 55) because of a different pan design?
08-04-2009, 11:57 PM
#41
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2007 E63 w/P30 and Eurotech CF Diffuser
Dear bjecsc,
Thank you very much for your post.
The drain plug at the front of your E 63 AMG engine is not convenient for draining the oil. Following the service instructions on the E 63 AMG, only the drain plug in the oil pan at the back of the engine is appropriate for draining the oil. Extracting through the dip stick is not possible either. A nearly complete emptying is guaranteed while your engine is at operating state temperature. A possible remaining quantity in the front area is negligible.
We hope this information finds you helpful.
Best regards,
AMG Private Lounge Team
Thank you very much for your post.
The drain plug at the front of your E 63 AMG engine is not convenient for draining the oil. Following the service instructions on the E 63 AMG, only the drain plug in the oil pan at the back of the engine is appropriate for draining the oil. Extracting through the dip stick is not possible either. A nearly complete emptying is guaranteed while your engine is at operating state temperature. A possible remaining quantity in the front area is negligible.
We hope this information finds you helpful.
Best regards,
AMG Private Lounge Team
08-05-2009, 01:56 PM
#42
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'05 E55, '06 300c SRT8
I've done a search for the Hazet 2169 tool, and found that there are numerous sizes, each with its own extension such as 2169-27, 2169-36 etc. Which is correct for the E55?
Todd
Todd
02-07-2010, 07:46 PM
#43
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Does anyone know what oil filter wrench I need for an 06 E55 that I can get at Auto Zone/Pep Boys/O'Reily/Advance Auto/Carquest ?? I can't seem to find anyone that carries Hazet... I guess any 15-point 92mm wrench would do? Also, can someone please tell me the specified torque for the drain plugs and the oil filter?
02-07-2010, 07:51 PM
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honda civic
well i am planning to do it hopefully this weekend. I will let you know guys if its fun(!?) 
i am planning to use mobil1 or redline trans oil and for engine the same... is that good choice? filter/cabin filters/gas filter/sparks and wires from dealer?!
I think some people had problems with Redline for the trani, do a search. I used royal purple in my gearbox and its done wonders. Not sure if they offer a product for auto transmissions. Many people use Mobil 1 engine oil on this board, BMW recommends 5W-30 synthetic.
i am planning to use mobil1 or redline trans oil and for engine the same... is that good choice? filter/cabin filters/gas filter/sparks and wires from dealer?!
I think some people had problems with Redline for the trani, do a search. I used royal purple in my gearbox and its done wonders. Not sure if they offer a product for auto transmissions. Many people use Mobil 1 engine oil on this board, BMW recommends 5W-30 synthetic.
02-09-2010, 06:39 PM
#45
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Does anyone know what oil filter wrench I need for an 06 E55 that I can get at Auto Zone/Pep Boys/O'Reily/Advance Auto/Carquest ?? I can't seem to find anyone that carries Hazet... I guess any 15-point 92mm wrench would do? Also, can someone please tell me the specified torque for the drain plugs and the oil filter?
02-10-2010, 10:45 PM
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02-11-2010, 12:42 AM
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that's what I usually do too. Just make sure you don't reuse the copper washers for the drain bolts though. You'll need 2 per oil change.
01-20-2013, 10:09 AM
#50
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