Here are some pics I took during the replacement. Total cost including shipping for both OEM rotors and their respective pads was $274.

The first thing I did was put the car in neutral and disconnect the SBC.


I have a couple of jacks so I slid one under each side jack point and jacked up each side equally. Remove the pins and pad spring from the caliper, unplug the wear sensor, and remove the pads.


Now remove the caliper using an E18 socket.


Once the caliper is off, remove the set screw in the rotor and pull the rotor off the hub. This was easier said than done because it was frozen to hub. I soaked it with penetrating oil and heated it with a propane torch. Couple hammer blows later and it came right off. Be sure to clean the hub surface very well and apply a thin layer of high pressure grease prior to installing the new rotor.


Clean the new rotor VERY well before installation. I used almost and entire can of cleaner for both rotors because of the coating on the rotors. Update to this... you don't need to remove the coating. It comes off after the first few miles with no side effects to the pads. Let the pads do the work.


Clean the caliper and all the components prior to reassembly. Mount caliper, torque bolts to 130ft-lbs, drop in new pads, spring, pins, and plug in wear sensor.


Plug the SBC back in and open one of the doors, and you'll see the caliper pistons close. Put tires back on the car and go for a ride.

Take your time and it's a very straightforward job. It took me longer than it should have because my 4yr-old daughter insisted on "helping" me but it can easily be done on a Saturday morning.

Hope this helped. Next DIY project might be isolating the intercooler coolant circuit while adding a secondary heat exchanger.

 

Good job. Did you change all 4 rotors? Also where did your rotors?h

 

I was going to do the same thing soon, not because my car needs rear brakes, It only has 5,000mi on it. But because the rear rotors have become discolored and my Wheels display the rotors prominently.

The stock pads are very aggressive, and I was trying to find a less metallic pad... mabye EBC Greens.

Ceramics don't make dust, but every set I've seen discolors the rotors badly.

Anyone have any ideas on kind pads?

Bests,

RoydRage

 

great write up, thanks!


where did you get the hardware from?

 

I have never had any luck with EBC 's product.

 

Same here good for no dust, but sacrifice pedal feel. That was the case on the 740 anyway. My brother has had good luck with Akebono on his E55 though.

 

www.mercedespartssuperstore.com

 

brilliant, thanks.

My stealer wants $3000 for new discs and pads all around...

...now to see it the superstore ships to europe...


edit: "WE DO NOT SHIP ORDERS OUTSIDE OF THE U.S.A.", doh...

 

I hope you can find a way. 3000USD is insane! The paper that came with the pads stated that only MB trained specialists were authorized to work on the brakes. Talk about protecting their margins....

 

what did you use to remove the coating on the new rotors? good thing i saw this thread before installing new rotor, I was just gonna let the pads scrape off the coating, yikes.

 

Excellent write up. I did the EXACT thing, getting my EVOSport Rotors on. Getting the rear calipers off was MUCH harder than the fronts. Maybe it is just how the bolts are.

 

do the pistons retract when you turn the car off? Or do you need a tool to push the pistons back so you can fit the new pads?

 

I did the no-no push them back, but it takes VERY little pressure.

 

Good job Brian, your write ups are a pleasure to read. Nice tip on the parts source too.

 

Thanks.

I used a soft wire wheel and brake parts cleaner. Getting the coating off was a bit of a pain but nothing too bad.

 

Later that night.

Mrs BrianS, "Honey, have you seen that blanket my mother gave us for Christmas last year??? Can't find it anywhere"



Great job on the brakes BTW. As always, you da man!!!!

 

And his 4 year old says, "I know where it is Mommy, it's in the garage."

BrianS =

 

Best shop rags in the world...
http://www.williams-sonoma.com/produ...?pkey=clinmoni

 

You should have heard the conversation when I was installing a Quaife in another car and the ring gear had to be lightly pressed on....so what did I do...put the ring gear in the oven on very low heat and the Quaife in the refrigerator of course! LOL...worked perfect. The ring gear dropped right into place and once both parts were the same temp they were good to go. I was the only one that saw the humor that night for reason.

 

I would very much like to see a documentation of a Quaife install ... or one where the rear gearing is changed to a 2.82 for example?



Is this possible to DIY or is shimming the diff best left to expert hands?

BTW are you building up a Haynes manual? , great write ups Brian, much appreciated.

 

Jangy,

In the future, just put a small hose on the bleeder, and open it before pushing the Pistons back, letting the fluid go into a waste can. Pushing Brake Fluid back into the System can damage it...

You don't want the old brake fluid anyway... You should get that outta there. That fluid has been sitting in the caliper getting red hot, and is done. You should flush the system using a air assisted brake bleeder like Snap-On sells.

Best,

RoydRage

 

[QUOTE=stevebez;2533257]I would very much like to see a documentation of a Quaife install ... or one where the rear gearing is changed to a 2.82 for example?



Is this possible to DIY or is shimming the diff best left to expert hands?

I second this request, I would love to see a write up and some pics of a Quaife install, Brian S we need you to do this for us, I for one love your DIY threads, I find them very helpful, keep up the good work Brian S

 

I was eyeballing it just last week wondering how bad could it possibly be? I'd like to know the factory clearance specs before taking it on because there are several shim options available.

 

Exactly what my problem was when I wanted to put the 2.82's in. Benz sure keeps specs close to the vest. With so much torque placed on that part of the car plus the crazy speeds we can hit, my guy (awesome Benz tech, but not really a custom modder) got spooked and didn't want to risk it. Thus the entire diff replacement from an E63.

 

Oldie but a goodie and spot on. I want to reiterate jangys point, that the rear calipers come off much harder than the front.

In addition, I would advise a 1/2" drive E18 torx socket. It also took a 650lb. impact wrench to get them loose. Have a 5lb hammer ready to break the rotors loose too.

The fronts take a 21mm wrench/socket.

My set screws for the rotors came right off, no hassel at all.