Basically not sure what to do next if anything.

You know what i voted right?

i would probably go with what adam said, as i know his thinking and thats one of the next things im gonna do.

Jim, my first thought is add spray and call it a day. On the rare occasion that you would need more hp than you already have, nitrous is the secret weapon of choice.

+1 100 shot on tap when you need it.

What is the bypass valve for under the SC?

Yeah, kinda interested in what this would do and what is needed from the DTM ecu tune. I don't even drive a E55K yet the workings interest me alot.

I guess I am really leaning toward the bypass Adam, my only question is....

Right now I am running the latest Kleemann program and honestly it is working pretty nicely. I get worried that having the ECU flashed back to a factory tune, even though it's the DTM.....would this be almost 2 steps forward, one step back. Meaning, I get the increased performance of the bypass being gone, but am possible getting reduced performance from going backwards with an ECU factory tune. Anyone know about the DTM tune......maybe it's AMG tweaked or something???

Helllpppppp!!

are you gettin the bottom mount? if so its worth it. if not hell no i wouldnt do it.

Jim buddy,

Give me a call early am, we shall discuss this.

Im hoping theres hp to be had by removing the by pass and tuning the ecu for it,but Im going to say no...theres not any there.I think its more for drivability more than hp gains.The by pass in normally closed and is controlled by the ecu to open at certain times,what these times are,I do not know.I would think its more for boost bleed off after the throttle blade is closed rapidly and theres now where for the manifold pressure to go.A simple way to see what happens wouldbe to get another by pass,lay it out of the ay somewhere in the engine bay and connect the wiring harness to it,The ecu will see that its still connected but not know you're using a sperate one instead of the one in the manifold.I might try this myself here shorty,just to see what happens.

it does add HP but not enough on its own IMO, but there is a mod that goes with it that brings the HP.

um i recall reading that the valve is there for reliability issues as allot of the earlier models had some things go wrong... do not know the details sorry might want to search for it... might not be cheap to fix

My vote would be to juice it. It's the only way to get a proven additional 100hp. Have the guy do a good job installing it, get the lines hidden and hide the bottle in the trunk. Instant hp when you need it. The 55K motors tend to hold up damn good to N20. Even my 5.0 m113 was happy with a nice wet shot.

Maybe try some weight reduction...CF hood and trunk, etc?

Listen to this man he knows what he's talking about.

Then again the more you pick up off the bottle the more you make overall.

Hey Albert,

I had been messing with a wet setup earlier this year (like you don't know ..... with my daily "please help pm's")

Guess I got spooked over the initial super lean spikes upon activation. What are your thoughts on a progressive controller. Heard positives and negatives.

Was thinking if I could bring in the juice slower, the rail would not drain so fast and ECU would have a chance to adapt. I know he is the devil, but that Malcolm guy was running a pretty good shot of nitrous and he swore by the progressive.

Any thoughts?

Thanks again for the all the input you guys!