phatmitzu

Yes. Bumper needs to be removed. We did this in my garage...well, actually Brandon did, I only handed him the tools After seeing Brandon's install, I would said I'm pretty confident that I can do it myself. I think the hardest part is to reinstall the front bumper. Rest is just plug and play.

Wedge LEDs with resistors.

Yeah. I'll post up when I get home from work.

psk145

awesome!! Install day at your place!! I'll bring pizza

phatmitzu

and beer!


As promised.
This it the best picture that I can find.


You guys would have the oil cooler mount(direct bolt-on) instead of the two extended brackets I have.

Code3 Performance

Here is the data from last night. I forgot to export to a graph from within the datalogger, and only did a CSV save. So this graph was done in Excel.

Vehicle: 2005 E55 - ASP Pulley - VRP Intake - Code3 Performance Heat Exchanger - Stock IC pump wired normal - Stock cooling circuit

- Ambient Temperature - 60° +/-3°
- Three people in the vehicle.
- Two 50-120mph runs within 3 minutes of each other.

We came into the first run with an IAT temp of 64°, spiked at 122°, and dropped down to 73° before the next run. Second run started with an IAT temp of 75°, spiked at 136°, and dropped down to 79° within 3 minutes. After heading back home, IAT temps settled back down to 70°. According to the software, both runs took 11 seconds.

I think these are great numbers considering the factors. Clearly coupled with a Johnson pump and separated IC circuit, we would see even better numbers. Stay tuned for more development! Those numbers will be coming down quickly.

ROCKETW19

your numbers are nuttin special and are equal to the other kits, execpt my car drops back down in seconds. if i dont look down at my scangauge fast enough i dont know how high the temps realy got, they drop that fast.

1 great plus you product is 1/3 the price of the compitions.

I will soon be seperating my coolin lines im hoping to never go over 120 deg. again.

Code3 Performance

On the first run, letting off at 120mph, the car dropped IATs 22° within 10 seconds. At 30 seconds it dropped 33°. At 60 seconds it dropped 42°.

On the second run. the car dropped IATs 27° within 10 seconds. At 30 seconds it dropped 39°. At 60 seconds it dropped 47°.

I would say those are pretty good recovery times considering this is a pullied car with all stock cooling components except the heat exchanger.

Are you running only an upgraded heat exchanger with no other cooling mods? Just curious. Because even an upgraded pump makes a difference.

I bet with an upgraded pump running all the time, we might not see temps over 120°.

ROCKETW19

Ya i have the upgraded pump. thoes numbers are very close to what my car does. in your other post you said 3 mins i think that is why i was not impressed. dont take this post wrong i think your product is well worth the cost especialy when comparing to others. but i was hoping for cooler temps outta a big HE like that. looking foward to seeing what it can do with lines seperated and comparing it to my numbers. im guessing that is where the bigger unit will stand out. if they do sighn me up for 1

chiromikey

rocket's right, your measurements are on par with other kits...which is a compliment. summer time measurements will be more interesting.

the upgraded pump won't make that big of a difference and wiring it to run constantly won't make any difference at all. contrary to popular belief, my testing revealed that under normal operating temps the ecu runs the i/c pump continuously (unless my car is special?).

Code3 Performance

It could be special

Vadim revealed that on the C32s, the Johnson CM30 pump was good for a consistent -10° over the stock pump. That was on a stock heat exchanger. I have seen those kind of results from going to the Johnson pump on my C32 as well.

I will take the compliments and run This was just the first step however and I am confident in better numbers as we upgrade further. I just like to test components piece by piece so that we have good solid data on what does or does not work. Plus I think that even with the numbers above, that would satisfy a large portion of the market on its own.

chiromikey

i have no experience with the c32 so i won't attempt to comment on or compare them to the 55's.

the coolest ambient temps i've tested in are low 70's so the aspect that i can't account for is how cold climates affect how/when the ecu operates the i/c pump. i do know for a fact that at normal operating temps my ecu runs the i/c pump continuously in ambient temps above 70* and until someone offers concrete evidence to the contrary i have to believe my car is just like all other 55's and not special (well, it is special but for other reasons ).

vrus

Brandon,

First I want to say that you did a great job on the fabrication.. The unit does look great and you are offering it at a very good price.

I've held off on throwing in any input because I didnt want you to think I was criticizing, but, I just want to put out a few thoughts and maybe we can discuss as a group...

You know me.. I am all about "build the best product possible and provide it for the best possible price." That's how everything started, and that's how it will continue to go...

The one comment I wanted to make with respect to your results is that it can be attributed to your bar & plate design.

Bar & Plate type heat exchangers are great for air to air intercoolers where you want a larger passage for the air to travel through.. the more air can get through, the faster it will dissipate the heat.

On an air to water intercooler, its the opposite.. The tube & fin design lends more to heat dissipation because the passages are smaller and therefore the water spends more time in the core and can extract the heat.. On the bar & plate design, the water will move through very quickly and not be given enough time to do its job.. This is much the same result as using a pump which flows TOO much..

Evosport's kit uses a bar & plate design, but, it works great because it still has the OEM heat exchanger in place which is not very efficient and slows down the flow.

Ultimately, my goal is to have a great cooling upgrade kit available for everyone; whether it be my own or someone elses... I'd love to be able to find a definitive answer and test it against the tube & fin style and see if the efficiency goes up or down.

When I set out to conquer this same problem with my 993TT I had contracted to make a Bar & Plate type intercooler because the car is air cooled.. Below is a pic of what I had made for my 993TT.. It was coated with the heat dispersement coating (hence the black appearance) which also improves heat dispersement properties by 20%.

For the E55, I am using Chris' tube & fin style.




Again, these are my $0.02 worth and I'd love to discuss this as a group and get some further input.

Code3 Performance

I am always open to discussion Victor

There are numerous types of bar and plate cores. There are some cores that are very open, and your assumption would be correct in the fact that fluid moves too quickly through the passages, and does not allow time to dissipate heat. These would not be ideal in an air-water setup. But this is why we use a bar and plate core with offset finned passages. They are not wide open, they have offset fins that fill the entire passage. They are identical to the fins you see between the passages. This serves two purposes. One is to allow the fluid more contact with aluminum for heat dissipation. The other is for flow control. We see incredible results using the bar and plate core on everything from 300hp cars to 2000hp drag cars. This is the core we have used very successfully for many years in automotive, aeronautic, commercial, and industrial applications.

Here is a shot of some core with numerous types of internal finning. Then a core more identical to ours. I can post an actual cut of our core tomorrow.

dyno

THANK YOU, Chiromikey, CODE3 and VRUS

for the interesting discussion
you are giving a lot of insight.

Brandon ... would definitely help to simply show the combined temp graph with data for stock HE and your HE3 .... just for quick evidence

dyno

thanks ... but was curious to see how it fits on right side to the radiator

stevebez

Hi Brandon ,

I think the results you published are very interesting but do you have the results of the OEM H/E to compare with?

I would also like to see when (if at all) IAT's plateau and at what speed this happens ...?

rflow306

Looks good, I like the fact that it's a dual pass design.

One thing to keep in mind is that water velocity is not necceseraly a bad thing it creates turbulence which also helps to transfer heat. I'm sure there is a happy medium somewhere and the more we test the more we learn. I'm glad more people are getting involved it will help us all.

stevebez

One other thing I was wondering is pressure .... a system under higher pressure would transfer more heat less / more / same as atmos pressurised system??

Reason I ask is in tems of the pump size mbe the CM90 has more benefits beyond its flow rate. And secondly in terms of the split vs open cooling circuit....

Lastly, any idea what temps coolant exits the ENGINE radiator?

dyno

this is very interesting
... and what about difference of separate cooling circuit

Code3 Performance

Here are some pictures of an actual rip cut from one of our cores. You can see how they are finned internally. You can also see from the cut on the end and top, just how many fins fill the passages. Its like fluid plinko

Code3 Performance

The fins have the same effect as using a strainer. Just think of running water through a strainer in the kitchen. You can make the water flow through if you hit the openings just right. But if you shift the strainer, the water flow gets more interrupted. Now think of having 150 strainers stacked up, and running that water through. You will find that the flow has been controlled.

Also, bar and plate cores hold more fluid. In the grand scheme of cooling, more fluid capacity is always good. The more fluid in the system, the longer it takes to heat up. In all fairness, it can take a bit longer to cool down though. But longer doesn't mean 10 minutes. It means 3 minutes. As I demonstrated, the bulk of the heat is dissipated very quickly, between 10-30 seconds.

Bar and plate cores really shine in the hotter months. They inherently cool better because they are designed as large heat sinks. When ambient temps rise, and the air is hot outside, these cores continue to cool extremely well. I think this is where most people will see a big difference.

Tube and fin cores are rarely referred to as heat exchangers. They are referred to as radiators. We use tube and fin cores where we want to maintain a temperature, not significantly lower it. You will find that in almost all heat exchanger applications, bar and plate is the preferred choice in the industry. People choose tube and fin because its cheap to make. I could build $150 tube and fin radiators all day long for the E55. But I don't think they are the best solution, which is why I don't. Sure I could massively increase my profit margin selling cheap radiators, but I wouldn't feel right doing it. I want people to have the best unit available, that wont break in half if I look at it funny. I cant tell you how many tube and fin radiators I see get busted on lowered cars.

chiromikey

don't get me wrong...it WILL make a difference. just not the huge difference some people reading this expect to see. separatig the cooling circuit will also make a difference, but it's the combination of these things with an aftermarket heat exchanger that finally makes a noticable difference.

imho, if you do all these things it doesn't matter who's heat exchanger you have or how big it is. the results are going to be similar to what's been posted here or from other set-ups. the i/c itself is the true limiting factor and the first person to come up with a reasonably priced solution for that will corner the market. (yes, that's a hint ).

stevebez

The best solution (although perhaps not the simplest) in terms of the whole package ... is to replace the Lysthom S/C unit with two radial S/C's mounted upfront ahead of the air filters. Then the whole area where the current S/C resides can be used for one large intercooler.

Radials are v similar to turbo's and in many ways will be the best of both worlds.

Most importantly the ECU will probably only need mild modification ...

chiromikey

imho, if one were to go that route, they may as well take it to the next step and go tt!

TopGun32

SLR type of design.

mucho dinero $$$$ (spanish)

TopGun32

this is one of the best threads on this board..


let me say this..

the upgraded pump will shave off a few more degrees and probably cool down a few seconds sooner.. but nothing major, but every bit helps.

Using stock pump is ideal when you have the newest version of the OEM pumnp..which does not fail as often.

But for $125 and doing it at the same time.. its like a (Big Mac and Fries) you need to have both.

either way.. stock or not.. the HE works as we thought. Big improvement over stock, specially when using a bigger pulley.

Can someone post the information of stock IAT

and does anybody know when does the ECU pull back timing when a certain IAT is reached?

I believe is 170???