vrus

140F is the magic number. Once the ECU sees IAT creep to 140 its pulling timing.. I believe its 5-6dg retarded at that point.. At 170F its 11dg retarded (I am pretty sure this is the correct # but I will double check)..

At 199F its game over and S/C is shutoff.

The goal is to keep the IAT under 140F at all times.

TopGun32

now go on and take on the 335 that was talking smack..

TopGun32

max 140 is a ideal..

max 120 would make high IAT's a thing of the past.

thanks for the great info!

ROCKETW19

If I remember corrctly it is either 120 or 140. my scan gauge reads timing also and it runs at 24 when regular driving (40mph) stays at 14 when at stop lights and drops to like 8 when I do WOT. I realy couldnt tell you how bad that is hurtin performance cuzz I nuttin about timing.

TopGun32

last thing I would like to mention.

probably using distilled water 70%/30 antifreeze/water wetter would help bring the temps down a bit quicker.

As we all know, 50/50 coolant is not ideal.

I have roughly 25% water mixed in with 1 bottle of water wetter with 75% coolant.

Before summer... I plan to flush the sytem and do the 70/30 ratio.

vrus

Thanks for the info!

The cores that are being used in our kits are from PWR Racing in Australia.. It would be great to compare the 2 different cores on the same car to see which style works best.

We have a few different design styles between our 2 kits so it covers alot of territory ....

- We use direct cross flow vs the same side inlet/outlet style that you use
- We use tube & fin and you use bar & plate

I know that inlet/outlet on the same side is easier for install, but it can also cause turbulence and could possibly even bleed by the inlet inside the tank and go directly to the outlet...

Did you do any experimenting with inlet & outlet on opposing sides by any chance?

Maybe between the 2 of us we can test a few different variations and see which combination works best.

chiromikey

this corroborates the info that i have also.

chiromikey

if you don't have to worry about sub freezing temps skip the antifreeze all together for the best results.

dyno

sorry, can't properly translate "timing" and therefore what does run at 24 -14..

ROCKETW19

I dont understand the question?
my cars timing is
at idle -14
at 40mph -24 or so
at WOT 120mph+ -8

Code3 Performance

Take a look here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_timing

Just easier than explaining it all out here

Code3 Performance

I took a quick look at the data from the other night. Here are the averages

at idle -11.5
at 40mph -20.5
at WOT 120mph+ -4.5

ROCKETW19

If I get this right the lower the number the more gas is being added witch means running rich correct? At -4.5 how much performance is being lost? What do i want my timming to be at under WOT?

JAYCL600

-15 is "optimum"

Code3 Performance

Its a double edged sword. Advancing timing can create power to a certain extent. When timing is retarded, there is less time for the expanding force of the combustion to work against the rising piston (piston doesn't have to work as hard) and the peak cylinder pressure occurs at a better rod to crank angle to help turn the crank and make more power (ideal +12-25 degree ATDC range). I cant speak specifically to the E55 as I have not done any tuning on one. Just curious why -15 would be optimal? And to who? Optimal timing is really directly related to the vehicle and mods. There is an optimal range as I stated above, but I would not pin one number down except if I was referring to a specific car.

JAYCL600

since the context of this is E55's thats what we are discussing, -4 at WOT is losing power

rflow306

The timing being reported is deg of advance the obdII scanner reports it as negative but it is not, you can verify it with a timing lite at idle.

JAYCL600

+1, and I wouldnt have known that unless you pointed it out to me when I say -4 iam referring to advance in timing not retard

Code3 Performance

We have never seen any issues with fluid bleeding between the tank. They are welded internally, and as far as we know, do not leak. To be completely honest, it would be very hard to test. The only way to really know, was if there was a large leak, and you were seeing poor performance because fluid was just getting sucked down into the opening bypassing the core. Since we pressure test the units to 150psi, I would say that there is no leaking though. We would bust a weld at that pressure and it would be obvious.

Where single pass falls down is tubing velocity. Because the water is presented to all the tubes at once, the water velocity through the tubes is half of what it is through a dual-pass heat exchanger. Increased water-velocity increases water turbulence, which in turn increases the ability of the water to pass the heat that's stored within it into the metal walls of the tubes that its flowing through. If you now suddenly halve the water velocity by making a dual-pass HE into a single pass HE, you will lose the heat transfer benefit being provided by the higher water velocity through the tubes. This effect can be seen in terms of radiator heat dissipation based upon changing just the water flow rate alone. As the flow rate (and hence water velocity in the tubes) goes down, the radiator performance starts to fall away. With a single-pass you've gone and halved the water velocity in one hit. In low flow rate applications, this would not be a huge issue (>12lpm). But in a higher low unit, like the CM30, you are pushing 26lpm.

By the way, the internal fins are called Turbulators. I couldn't think of the name off hand. If you read up on them, you will find that they can promote massive cooling efficiency.

We should definitely talk some more Victor

Code3 Performance

Ok, my head hurts

ROCKETW19

Suck it up bro, you have good info goin on here.

TopGun32

CODE3, VRUS are

for the average JOE (thats my name) basically all the IAT and timing talk is useful..

dyno

oh, thanks it's just FASE

btw, if all that minus do not mean "retard" but advance, why we have lower advance at wot that at low rpm

ps: by opening gif image with quicktime it is even mor einstructive as you can regulate speed and "pause" for further brainstorming

rflow306

The ecu retards timing based on intake air temps, engine temps and knock detection.

dyno

so .. for safety reasons it appears that quite always works retarded and therefore at sub-optimal efficiency