http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jbcCr2ll3c

This is a great short clip of testing 4 octane boosters and how it affected performance...

Across the board performance DROPPED.

Motor tested was a N/A 1600 Toyota VVT with Fuel injection (at least thats what it looked like - I could not hear the audio)

OK the ECU was maybe not the most modern and the ECU was not tuned for the mixture - but these additives are certainly not plug and play power boosters.

And here is the one about using higher octane fuel and the benefits ... annoying subtitles but you wil get the picture....

Higher Octane helps ... if you car can use it!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NaPQLV5i4ks

High compression engine needs high octane gasoline, to a point. To better understand gasoline you must first understand the LHV and HHV (lower and higher heating value) all gasolines have a heating value of 112,265 to 125,000 BTUs per a gallon, that is the energy the fuel has regardless of its octane rating. The octane rating is the resistance to auto ignition (detonation).
Octane adds no power, the power is a function of the compression ratio the engine has.

But a higher octane does diminish the amount of energy potentially lost to pre-ignition and not efficiently captured, no?

Higher octane means you can delay the ignition timing further in the stroke cause the gas wont pre-ignite on you. This delay allows the fuel/air mixture to be compressed more before ignition which results in a more powerful burn. Or with a turbo charged engine this allows you to increase PSI without knock which results also in more power.

At least thats what ive understood about higher octanes. And yes, octane boosters are crap. You have to buy the real fuel to see the positive difference.

And yes, octane boosters are crap. You have to buy the real fuel to see the positive difference.[/QUOTE]

I REALLY have to disagree with you on this one my friend

When I had my whippelcharged stang, just 1 can of black label 104 octane booster with 93 octane gas would allow me to delete my boost retard completely. Typically with just straight gas, 93, I would need about 0.5 degrees timing pulled out per pound of boost. Now with PURE race gas 110 octane, I could not only remove the boost retard, but I could also turn up the intial timing by about 4 degrees.

I will agree that the cheapy octane boosters like STP, Chevron, etc, etc, ARE WORTHLESS.

See yeah

If your engine needs the higher octane to run (read - no pre-detonation) it's a must, but using a higher than necessary octane can actually reduce power by giving the fuel a higher flash point and slower, less complete burn on engines that do not need it.

I know, all my life, I thought hi-octane meant more power and have run it in practically everything I own!! I have a few jeeps and do a lot of off roading and thru that forum, learned that engines designed for 87 have less power and get less mileage on 91. Go figure lol

You have the right concept just 180 out. Higher octane means you can add more advance and or in the case of a FI engine more boost.

Okay, with all this Octane talk, thinking of trying a smaller drum of some 100-102 octane VP. (no 100 anywhere at the pumps here..no Sunoco in general here..ugh)

Which one would you guys choose.

Full Page Here

[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JAMESJ%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/JAMESJ%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.jpg[/IMG]
***ETHANOL IS SUPPOSED TO BE THE DEVIL..No????
Oxygenated with ethanol, this CARB-legal fuel is specifically engineered for high-performance street cars including sport compacts, muscle cars, street rods and more. It's environmentally friendly and street legal throughout the U.S. In applications with anything from 4- to 12-cyclinders or engines equipped with a turbocharger, supercharger or nitrous oxide system (NOS), StreetBlaze 100 will generate optimum power and performance. In turbocharged or supercharged applications, it allows an increase in boost without fear of detonation. NOS users can also leverage their higher octane ratings to step up to a more powerful nitrous oxide system. Dyno tests with a turbocharged application proved StreetBlaze100 generates up to 14% more horsepower compared to premium grade 91 octane unleaded gasoline. Designed for use in cast-iron head engines with CRs up to 13:1 and aluminum head engines up to 14:1. Works well on the latest generation of electronically-controlled turbo engines. Contains no metal compounds and won't harm catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.
• Color: Orange
• Oxygenated: Yes
• Motor Octane: 96
• R+M/2: 100
• Specific Gravity: .746 at 60° F
__________________________________________________ _____________________

C10
The best non-oxygenated unleaded racing gasoline available. It meets ASTM D-439 standard specifications for automotive gasoline and is street-legal in most states. C10 does not contain any metal compounds and will not harm catalytic converters or oxygen sensors. Used by national champions in SCCA and IMSA stock classes.
• Color: Clear
• Motor Octane: 96
• Research Octane: 104
• R+M/2: 100

__________________________________________________ _____________________
MOTORSPORT 101
This 101 octane (R+M/2) fuel allows an increase in timing and more powerful nitrous oxide systems, with substantial power increases compared to premium pump gas. Designed for CRs up to 13:1 in cast-iron head engines and up to 14:1 with aluminum heads, MS101 is particularly effective in turbo- and supercharged applications. It contains no metal compounds and won't harm catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.
• Color: Yellow
• Motor Octane: 99
• R+M/2: 101
• Oxygenated: Yes
• Specific Gravity: .800 at 60° F

__________________________________________________ __________________

Tried this, but it didn't seem to like it

MOTORSPORT 103
MS103 provides power and protection equal to some leaded racing fuels. Compared to Motorsport 101, it allows even more aggressive timing and higher compression-up to 14:1 in cast iron head engines and up to 15:1 with aluminum heads. Can allow doubling of stock boost - consult your engine builder. Also contains no metal compounds and won't harm catalytic converters or oxygen sensors. AMA legal for Supercross & Outdoor Nationals.
• Color: Red
• Motor Octane: 99
• R+M/2: 103
• Oxygenated: Yes
• Specific Gravity: .743 at 60° F

__________________________________________________ ________________________

C-10
We have some plastic and rubber parts in our fuel systems that can harmed by ethanol and oxygenated fuels. I think Mercedes warns about ethanol in particular.

[QUOTE=Jakpro1;2484278]Okay, with all this Octane talk, thinking of trying a smaller drum of some 100-102 octane VP. (no 100 anywhere at the pumps here..no Sunoco in general here..ugh)

Which one would you guys choose.

Hey Jakpro1:

Search for Turboblue

I have used it in every race car I have ever owned with GREAT results. On a side not, its ALOT cheaper than VP fuels. In my area it runs about 6.50 a gallon. They make two flavours, leaded and unleaded. Stick to the unleaded if you like your O2 sensors and still have cats on your toy.

See yeah

This is just one test performed on generic octane boosters that do have little to no performance whatsoever on more than likely, an engine that did not even need increased octane. There are a couple out there that do make a huge difference especially in supercharged/turbocharged engines...

This is one of the most powerful ones that I have personally witnessed work on a 3rd party dyno.

www.OctaniumPower.com

(R+M)/2 , not R+M/2 ??

I used to distribute octane boosters back in the days when high compression engines needed them just to operate without detonation. There are numerous chemicals that are sold as octane boosters that do not boost octane...they suppress detonation which is something completely different. They do not produce any more power but allow the engine to produce the power it was designed for. Without the "booster" you would have to pull timing to prevent detonation and lose power. With "booster", timing can remain at it's optimun setting.

The first one, o soverign sophistic...

On the labels, it shows R+M over 2.

I need to get some of that Octanium ... I wish it did not have such a cheesy brand name tho ... I feel like a complete noob asking for it at the local hot rod shop.