crank pulley torque specs?
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2015 S212
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S600TT, R350
200Nm (148ft.lbs) + 90 degrees.
BiTurbo - you will need to hold the engine from rotating. Get a piece of 3/8'' angle bar from any hardware store. Cut off about 3'' piece. Than you be able to wedge it between flex plate teeth and transmission housing.
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From: Southern California
S600TT, R350
No Loctite. Crank bolt is a stretch bolt. When you do the final 90 deg. step you are stretching the bolt. As a result the bolt become like a spring and stays in place.
To stretch it properly will require a pretty big size breaker bar.
To stretch it properly will require a pretty big size breaker bar.
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ML550
Why not just use the crank dampener holder tool?
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Audi AS4
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I disagree with you both. Good luck putting that kind of TQ on a bolt, while holding it with a 12" tool at the same time. IF you have a lift, it is simply too easy to lockup the drivetrain and do the work. To use the tool, you had better remove the radiator and get yourself some room. Keep in mind that WIS is not always the most efficient way to do things.
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ML550
That's possible, but I'd like to believe that the MB engineers that designed the M113 engine and the related crank dampener removal tool knew what they were doing when they specified how to perform the procedure. The BMW V12 engines actually have a factory tool to lock the flywheel for a crank hub removal. With no such equivalent tool suggested by MB to use on the M113, the idea of using a piece of steel rod to lock the drivetrain seems a little on the risky side. Plus, only the radiator shroud, not the radiator itself needs to be removed to use the tool specified.
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In ideal world, proper tools will be in all of all mechanic's tool boxes. Unfortunately, we do not live in one.
I had to use angle bar prior to getting proper tool, because it was not available back in 2003. Most people who end up DIY on crank pulley do not have the tool or do not think the whole operation all the way through. Angle bar works just as well as the tool.
I had to use angle bar prior to getting proper tool, because it was not available back in 2003. Most people who end up DIY on crank pulley do not have the tool or do not think the whole operation all the way through. Angle bar works just as well as the tool.
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From: Mia
2005 E 55
That's possible, but I'd like to believe that the MB engineers that designed the M113 engine and the related crank dampener removal tool knew what they were doing when they specified how to perform the procedure. The BMW V12 engines actually have a factory tool to lock the flywheel for a crank hub removal. With no such equivalent tool suggested by MB to use on the M113, the idea of using a piece of steel rod to lock the drivetrain seems a little on the risky side. Plus, only the radiator shroud, not the radiator itself needs to be removed to use the tool specified.
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From: Mia
2005 E 55
That's possible, but I'd like to believe that the MB engineers that designed the M113 engine and the related crank dampener removal tool knew what they were doing when they specified how to perform the procedure. The BMW V12 engines actually have a factory tool to lock the flywheel for a crank hub removal. With no such equivalent tool suggested by MB to use on the M113, the idea of using a piece of steel rod to lock the drivetrain seems a little on the risky side. Plus, only the radiator shroud, not the radiator itself needs to be removed to use the tool specified.
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I disagree with you both. Good luck putting that kind of TQ on a bolt, while holding it with a 12" tool at the same time. IF you have a lift, it is simply too easy to lockup the drivetrain and do the work. To use the tool, you had better remove the radiator and get yourself some room. Keep in mind that WIS is not always the most efficient way to do things.
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Once again I agree with kompressed55, only had to remove the shroud and did it from the topside. There is a 1000mm extension to help but, it did take two grunts to get it torqued. Kleemann is the one that gave me the part # for the install not the WIS. I respect Kleemann for suggesting to use the proper tool.
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That's possible, but I'd like to believe that the MB engineers that designed the M113 engine and the related crank dampener removal tool knew what they were doing when they specified how to perform the procedure. The BMW V12 engines actually have a factory tool to lock the flywheel for a crank hub removal. With no such equivalent tool suggested by MB to use on the M113, the idea of using a piece of steel rod to lock the drivetrain seems a little on the risky side. Plus, only the radiator shroud, not the radiator itself needs to be removed to use the tool specified.
My main concern is with people getting it as tight as they can, but it not being properly TQ'd. Alternatively, the steel in the drivetrain only needs to hold the drivetrain in place to TQ a bolt (which is nothing compared to the TQ the car puts up). It also happens to be strong enough not to let the starter turn the motor over.
In the end, I am not arguing a right or wrong way. As long as it is seated properly and TQ'd, etc. then all is good for me.
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1965 continental
Hey all, Kompressed55 is right, we at the dealers have crank locks for almost all MB engines (I.E. 102, 104, 119, 602 etc) but it is not reccomended for 112 113 motors due to the lightweight design of the crank. I saw a pic posted not too long ago on here of a 113 crank, and if you look close at the rod journals and you'll see what I mean. I am not saying you will damage your crank, I'm just saying its very possible. There have been cases that crankshafts have gone out of balance for this exact reason. I'll look on monday to see if I can find the DTB. Laters....
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Maybe Vadim should have recomended using / offered to sell the proper tool, since they provide it with their pulley and may have them in stock. I'm sure it is less money since the Baum tool is $200+ by it self.
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2015 S212
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 13,394
Likes: 6
From: San Diego
2015 S212
Hey all, Kompressed55 is right, we at the dealers have crank locks for almost all MB engines (I.E. 102, 104, 119, 602 etc) but it is not reccomended for 112 113 motors due to the lightweight design of the crank. I saw a pic posted not too long ago on here of a 113 crank, and if you look close at the rod journals and you'll see what I mean. I am not saying you will damage your crank, I'm just saying its very possible. There have been cases that crankshafts have gone out of balance for this exact reason. I'll look on monday to see if I can find the DTB. Laters....
To me, the argument is should you risk your drivetrain just to get a solid TQ on the pulley? I could personally never use the tool and get that much power on it. It takes ALOT for those that haven't done it.
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S600TT, R350
Maybe Vadim should have recomended using / offered to sell the proper tool, since they provide it with their pulley and may have them in stock. I'm sure it is less money since the Baum tool is $200+ by it self.
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1965 continental
It is funny how peope get narrow vision. I AM NOT TALKING ABOUT TAKING THE PULLEY OFF!! Mine walked off by hand! We have been through this a number of times on this thread alone. I am talking about TQing the bolt back down. How am I damaging the pulley (which I don't care about) when i put the steel piece in to lock the drivetrain (which i do care about)?
To me, the argument is should you risk your drivetrain just to get a solid TQ on the pulley? I could personally never use the tool and get that much power on it. It takes ALOT for those that haven't done it.
To me, the argument is should you risk your drivetrain just to get a solid TQ on the pulley? I could personally never use the tool and get that much power on it. It takes ALOT for those that haven't done it.
Last edited by 211076-113990; Jan 13, 2008 at 03:19 AM.
