OK, the paddles are in. See the attached pictures.

But, they don't work. I checked the resistance of them and compared them to the older ones before the install.

The new ones are just straight open when engaged. My evil plan was to just switch the old ones "always on" into the loop so that the tranny computer gets the right signal.

This did not work. Turns out that the old ones also send a signal when not engaged.

Any suggestions?

 

put the buttons back in.

 

Do not give up, there is a very easy work around for this! I will get some info together and post it shortly as I am tight on time at the moment.

 

Okay, here you go.......

Please note that this is for '03 and early '04 cars, for comments on what to do with later cars, go to post #9.

On the '03 and some '04 cars, the left button is NO(normally open) while the right one is NC(normally closed). To compound things a bit, there is a tiny resistor on each button circuit board so the tranny control computer never sees a totally open or totally closed circuit as there is always an amount of resistance wen the button is in the rest position. I have no idea why the bothered doing this. Fortunately, the E63 paddles are just simple switches so they are very easy to work with.

First visit this link to read up on how to do a full CLK63 wheel swap into an '03 E55 (thanks Finny). Keep in mind that this is more complex then what you will do doing but the part pertaining to the paddles is the same:

https://mbworld.org/forums/showpost....&postcount=211

What you need to do to just fit the pabbles is as follows (note that this is simple but requires basic electronics knowledge):

Disassemble the stock buttons so you have the boards removed and make sure you note which is the left and right board. The next thing you need to do is unsolder the buttons and remove them being careful to not damage the board or the resistor. The left button is very simple, just connect the wires from the new E63 paddle directly in place of the switch and you are done. The right side is not bad but a bit more work. The right paddle requires a low voltage NC relay which will need to be inserted in place of the switch that you removed off the right button board which was also NC. now all you need to do is set the right paddle up to switch the relay. You can tap the power for this from the buss connector that connects to the steering wheel buttons. So when you push the right paddle (which closes the contacts in the paddle), it will energize the coil on the relay and open its contacts which in turn is in place of the stock button. In the end, it works the same as if you pressed the stock button.

For parts, you will need the following wire and a relay.....

Get some 20 or 22 gauge hookup wire in a few different colors.

Here is the info for the relay you will need that can be ordered from www.digikey.com

The 2211-12-301 on page 2033 is perfect (just do a search on their site for the part number). This SPDT 12VDC reed relay has a current draw of only 8mA and looks like it can carry plenty of current across the contacts.

The only other thing that I would recommend is that you parallel the switching coil of the relay with a Diode (get one from Radio Shack) to eliminate the possibility of any "noise" from the relay getting back into the buss that you tapped your power from.

I hope this helps and don't get scarred as it is really very simple and tough to screw up!

 

BTW, The airbag is an explosive device so be careful and remove it at your own risk.

General tips are to disconnect the battery, leave the key off and always keep the back of the airbag pointed away from you and everyone around you. Store the airbag with the back side down so if it ever were to go off, it would deploy the bag and not turn into a projectile. Also, keep it way from static electricity and prying fingers.

 

wow, dudes. Are you sure it is worth all this mechanical/electrical work for the paddles? It seems like so much for relatively so little. Maybe I'm speaking from a position of "minimal mechanical/elec. skills" but man, it seems like a lot of potential down side.

 

Blacksport350,


You are the man. Great work. I'll get over to Radio Shack get the wires and transistor.

I'll keep you posted on my progress.

Thanks a million.

 

It really isn't that hard. It took me 60 mins to custom fit E63 paddles onto my MP wheel. It will take another 45-90 mins to do the electronics conversion.

The E63 paddles look great and have great feel making them hard to beat. The VRP paddles will be a great way to go when they are done and be simple to instal but will probably not achieve the same "feel" as the factory paddles. I just love to touch bead-blast aluminum and feel the crisp click.

 

You bet but I just realized that I screwed up a bit!

I think the '04/'05 are the same and have NO(normally open paddles) on both the left and the right. It was only '03 and some early '04 cars that used NO on the left and NC on the right. Additionally, I am pretty sure the '06 cars have no resistors on the buttons but can't confirm this. If that is the case, the '06 cars don't need the hack mod to reuse the old button boards, you just throw them away and replace them with the paddles.

So on your '04, you will probably not need the relay! You will just replace the buttons that you unsoldered from the original button circuit boards with the wires from the E63 paddles on both the left and right. This will make it a snap.

So please verify before you get started which style you have by using a voltage tester (set it to continuity testing) at the contacts were the old buttons solder onto the circuit boards to see if the button on the right is NC or NO, if NO, you don't need the relay and if NC, you do. The left button is NO on all years.

Let me know if you run into a glitch and sorry if I caused any confusion.

 

Thanks again. I think I need the relay. I checked with a volt meter on Sunday but I better do it again. My SL was built in 04/04.

 

Carl,

Thanks so much. The left one is working now. I ordered the relay and will buy the transistor. I put the old right shifter back in to make it work. The computer needs to see the loop closed.


Thanks.

 

I'm sure it is just a typo but you don't need a transistor, just a diode and the relay. The diode is very optional but I am very **** and don't want any noise kicking back into the system even though it won't hurt it!

 

So what was the final verdict on installing these paddles in a 2005 E55? Just solder them on? How much work is necessary to make them fit? Thanks!

 

Great Write up... Where did you get the F1 paddle???

 

The bad news is that in longer term use and some cars the relay has failed to work properly and blown a set of steering wheel switches in another as they draw power off the control bus. I don't think I could recommend doing it with relays any more.

In an '05, it should be a straight swap. To verify, just pull the original buttons and measure them with a continuity tester. They should both read .000 with the buttons and 1.000 with the buttons pushed if it is going to be a direct swap. On an earlier car, the right button is reversed creating problems for the swap.

 

E63.

 

i also thought about E63 paddles but steve advised it wouldn't work on my car... now i see why...

i am waiting for VRP's development

 

Hi guys, I am having a hard time swapping the buttons on my SL55 (built 04/2003) for the paddles. As always, everybody's just telling me that it simply "DOESN'T WORK". I hate this answer...

Being somewhat naive, I bought a steering wheel with the paddles installed. It doesn't have the little control box in it, but it does have the wires for the paddles.

At first I thought: Okay, let's throw in the old airbag and the control buttons (for telephone, audio etc.), connect the paddles the way the gear shift buttons were originally installed... and I'm done.

Boy, was I wrong. Anyway... I'll cut this short: Since I do have the new steering wheel (with the paddles on it), is there a way to simply "open the paddles" and put in the circuit board from the buttons? That way it should just work like the old buttons. Does the original circuit board from the shift buttons fit into the casing of the shift paddles? And if it doesn't... can it be made to fit?

Everything else seems to be pretty easy, but making the paddles work seems to be the hard part. Please help!

 

Sadly it is proving to be a LONG wait.

 

What year and model is the wheel out of?

Will your old bag and buttons fit in the new wheel?

 

The wheel with the paddles is from a 2008 SL R230. My SL55 R230 is built in 04/2003... and it looks as if the airbag and the multi-funcion buttons for audio, telephone and BC would simply slide in.

Knowing that the shift paddles wont work, I did not yet put everything together though.

What about my idea to implant the circuit board from the shift buttons into the paddles? Do you think it would fit?

 

No, this will not work. But you are thinking in the right direction.

Do a search for BrianS as he did a mini write up in the last 6 months after I helped him. After you read that, PM me with your email address.

 

Hi Blacksport... thank you so much for your willingness to help. I was starting to get really frustrated about the whole thing. Thanks.

I guess you're reffering to this thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...652&highlight=

Interesting. So the old shift button's inner life can be made to fit the new paddles. That's awesome... I sent you my email address via PM.

 

hi allllllllllllll -

 

HI ALLLLLLL !!!! NOW FROM WHAT I READ & SAW [PHOTOS] THE NEW PADDLES HAVE 2 N/O SWITCHES - SO REPLACE THE SMALL MICRO SWITCH ON THE RIGHT = UP TO A N/C
THEN ITS THE SAME AS THE ORIGINAL [EARLIER 2 WIRE SYSTEM] PAC