BallzyS55

Well me and my cousin took our cars to a local dyno shop, we put my S55 on dyno first, then I put the car in dyno mode, then when they tried doing a first pull, they figured after hooking every thing up, that the boost cable wasn't hooked up, to measure sc psi, so after performing first run, without boost, they figured to pull the car off the dyno, to figure out where the boost connects to, so before even moving the car I turned dyno off, then as soon as he pulls it off dyno, my rear wheels just dumped, I mean were slammed all the way down, and the ABC was not working, visit workshop message appeared, and when I opened my hood, the ABC dipstick, that has a small bleeding hole in it, was leaking fluid from that hole, a small amount of hydraulic fluid leaked, and the ABC still not working, tried to disconnect the battery, but nothing, the error message disappears for less than 1 min of driving, then comes back on. The front isn't as bad, but still not balanced, and when I press the raise buttons, nothing comes on, and the car actually drops in the back more, after it slightly adjusts after a little drive. Any idea why this is happening, or what can I do? Also after fixinng the problem, when I go to dyno the car, what #s should I expect my Air to Fuel ratio to be within?

Jakpro1

Personal opinion.....when they were strapping things down in the back, they clipped a line.

Man bro, you sure are having bad luck on the car front.

2nd, unless you are dyno'ing at Affalterbach Germany, I have rarely heard of a dyno guy wanting to hook up a boost gauge on a run.

As I told you before, have them clamp the exhuast pipe to snag a wideband Air Fuel and run the darn car. We have guys here that could work for AMG and can tell you straight up if your car is messed up. We just need that dyno chart.

Gotta take the car to the stealer and have um check the lines, then tell the dyno guy to take some Xanax, strap the )#$#($*in car down and run it. If we can see the Air Fuels and the runs, we can at least compare to other guys and see.

PS. Only way I know of getting actual boost is drilling the surge tanks and installing boost guage. Perhaps the other guys know of something though.

BallzyS55

well I guess I'll take it to the dealer, do you think they'll flash the ecu? cause I don't want them to do so before dyno, as I want to get all the facts.

mbamg06e55

OMG!!!! Ballzy.....Your having the run of the luck aren't you.

I have to agree with Jakpro. It does sound like they clipped a line. Get it over to the stealer and have them fix it, and send the bill to the Dyno shop

Unless you already have a vacuum outlet hooked up, there is no need for a boost line. Everything can be pretty much be determined by the readout you'll get from the dyno chart.

By the way what dyno machine are they using?

Good Luck Bro!!!!

BallzyS55

dyno dynamics!!!

mbamg06e55

No they shouldn't unless you ask them to. Ask them if there are any service bulletins on the car first. There shouldn't be if the car has been kept up to date.

What Stealer are you taking it to?

BallzyS55

mbamg can you call me when you get a chance, my daughter threw my phone in the toilet, I lost your #

mbamg06e55

Timeless

Good Lord...can you get anymore bad luck? You need to reset your Kharma!

Cylinder Head

iTrader: (1)

Ballzy, you need to just get rid of that car, God hates it.

MikeF

typically A/F ratio should be at about 14.7

BallzyS55

Tell me about it, new day new problem!!!

BallzyS55

I definetly need to do something man.

BallzyS55

I would thing that's too lean, No?

Vadim @ FD

Arghhhhhhhhhhhhh.... no. Not at WOT.

Cylinder Head

iTrader: (1)

Hahaha I think I just melted a piston looking at that number.

MikeF

no no no!!! at idle

Vadim @ FD

Do you measure power at idle........................?

housclass

actually on a N/A engine you want to be in the high 13's to low 14's if i'm correct? back in the day we always used a brake dyno and from what i remember the F/I motors needed to be around 12.1 - 12.5 with a bsfc (brake specific fuel consumption) of .55 (just a hair over 1/2 a pound of fuel per horsepower) and the N/A engines were around 14.1 with a bsfc of .44 different motors required different fuel consumption...aluminum heads, pop-up pistons, dished pistons, compression, ect....it's been 17 years so i may be mistaken.

john

Vadim @ FD

Substract about 0.6 - 0.8 from both NA and FI numbers and you will be very close for what is needed on the street with CA 91 gas.

housclass

now that you mention gas...we always used sunoco race gas 116 octane...sunoco back in the day was the best...it had a motor octane rating of 116...the other gasoline’s were research+motor octane / 2= rated octane...research was always a higher number.

i understand now...with the lower octane you would want lower numbers...thanks for the refresher!!

john

BallzyS55

is 10.0 too rich?

Mathmik

Sounds like it!

BallzyS55

even if it starts at 14.1, and gradually goes to 10.0 at higher speed, and rpms, and the car temp is higher allready?

Blk04cobra1

On a FI car, 12.0 is pretty much stoich...if it starts off a bit lean (14.0), then drops down quickly as you get in to boost, then you are OK...IMO, 10.0 is way too rich, especially if they are using a sniffer to test A/F...I would try to be somewhere in the 11.5 range to be on the safe side with optimal performance.