Renntech Stage 1 looses to a Tuned 335i
08-28-2008, 03:50 AM
#51
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08-28-2008, 03:59 AM
#53
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, i was just wondering what was the issue with the pump, also its not a cm30 or any from that rangei feel you are hiding something spill dem beans boy am reaching my modding climax and summer is nearing its end
08-28-2008, 12:40 PM
#55
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W220 S65 AMG
That guys a dick..
...Everyone was shocked by the performance of the 335i with just a JB3 and intakes. I think this weekend is going to be a rematch but maybe I will use 100 octane just to make the Benz guys feel worse.
08-28-2008, 01:47 PM
#58
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08-28-2008, 04:07 PM
#61
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W211 E55
I'm also doing cooling right now, but SPLIT THE SYSTEMS!!!! I can not believe that ANY tuner would sell you a larger HE and higher capacity pump and say it will do much. If you do not separate, all you do is buy time. Maybe your car will make a single blast without pulling as much timing, but the datalogged IATs I've seen are dramatic between the separated systems and the ones that just have larger HEs. Also, keep in mind that separating means you add HE capacity as well.
My datalogs show over 20 - degree drop in IATs.
The fastest street-tire pass on record shows the rest.
08-28-2008, 04:18 PM
#62
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W211 E55
Originally Posted by jangy
CM30: I've said this a bunch of times and not many like to hear it, but the flow capacity of the CM30 is the same (almost) as the OEM one.
Originally Posted by jangy
... I have never been one to believe that the fluid is cooled significantly in a single pass. To me, more passes are better. Given that, I am not even happy with the CM90.
Originally Posted by jangy
Last thing, the Marine pumps are made to withstand aqueous solutions and salts, NOT detergents, coolants, etc. Going with an automotive pump allows me to play with fluids more.
Originally Posted by jangy
PTE Thermostat: Again, if all you were doing is taking a stock car and dong some road runs, then this would be great. But, lowering the engine temp even slightly can have an effect on the performance and reliability of the motor AND doesn't help your IATs as significantly as straight up removing that heating source from your setup. It is a great bandaid, but not a performance mod.
08-28-2008, 05:14 PM
#64
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I think if everyone would use IAT degrees over ambient, then we would all be speaking the same language. 20 deg. drop to 70 drop is way to ambiguous..
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
08-28-2008, 05:14 PM
#65
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W211 E55
08-28-2008, 07:41 PM
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W211 E55
I would love to see a 70+ degree drop...that means it would be well below ambient temperature in my case, or well above 100% efficiency.
I've only seen that kind of performance out of an ice-packed secondary reservoir setup.
Where my IATs would hit ~165 on the dyno at the top of the pull pre-HE, they go to about 135-140 during a pull now. This is read from the car's OBDII port.
Probe in the intake tube reads from 95-115F pre-Kompressor.
I've only seen that kind of performance out of an ice-packed secondary reservoir setup.
Where my IATs would hit ~165 on the dyno at the top of the pull pre-HE, they go to about 135-140 during a pull now. This is read from the car's OBDII port.
Probe in the intake tube reads from 95-115F pre-Kompressor.
08-28-2008, 08:43 PM
#71
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2005 E55
The proper way for a rolling start is... S mode, manually downshift to the right gear(most likely its going to be 2nd), then just let her rip(DO NOT manually upshift, let the computer upshift for you).
Don't lose this time.
08-28-2008, 09:21 PM
#72
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I just read through the thread again. I think another problem was the kick-down hesitation when you floored it.
The proper way for a rolling start is... S mode, manually downshift to the right gear(most likely its going to be 2nd), then just let her rip(DO NOT manually upshift, let the computer upshift for you).
Don't lose this time.
The proper way for a rolling start is... S mode, manually downshift to the right gear(most likely its going to be 2nd), then just let her rip(DO NOT manually upshift, let the computer upshift for you).
Don't lose this time.
Exactly! If the 335 is in the optimum gear and you guys go for it, while your car is kicking down to a lower gear he is already gone. And your playing catch up. I did notice that 60mph is not that great in 2nd gear (rpms too low). From my testing I have found that 40mph roll in 1st is good. and 75-80mph in 2nd is a killer! I like the keep the rpms up on a rolling start. Let the tranny do the shifting.
Either that or just go from a dig and mutilate him!
08-28-2008, 11:32 PM
#73
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I would love to see a 70+ degree drop...that means it would be well below ambient temperature in my case, or well above 100% efficiency.
I've only seen that kind of performance out of an ice-packed secondary reservoir setup.
Where my IATs would hit ~165 on the dyno at the top of the pull pre-HE, they go to about 135-140 during a pull now. This is read from the car's OBDII port.
Probe in the intake tube reads from 95-115F pre-Kompressor.
I've only seen that kind of performance out of an ice-packed secondary reservoir setup.
Where my IATs would hit ~165 on the dyno at the top of the pull pre-HE, they go to about 135-140 during a pull now. This is read from the car's OBDII port.
Probe in the intake tube reads from 95-115F pre-Kompressor.
The funny thing is that some people here actually believe those results.
08-29-2008, 04:07 AM
#75
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2005 E55
