Jakpro1

Okay here is what I am up against

Dyno #1. Called the guy and he just couldn't be more of a jerk. Like I am wasting his time. I mentioned that one of our guys was on his dyno awhile back and I swear he mumbled something at me under his breath.
Anyway, it's a dynapack dyno that hooks to the hubs and the guy that used it here said it was nice.
Raping me on price...get this. 200hr!!

Dyno #2. Everyone boo at once as the bad guy enters the arena...DYNOJET 248!! It's a oldie but goodie and the guy was super nice. Bout a 100hr and he does have a wideband and says he has the latest software on the unit.

Bottom line, I am not going to be setting any records up here. Just hoping for CONSISTANCY from one run to the next. Meaning we will be tweaking the car and wanna see how she reacts.

Would you resist the temptation to knock the Dynapack guy in the mouth and go there or you would you go to the nicer guy with the dyno that everyone hates?

My local Mustang guy is just out of the question. He's flaky and never answers his phone. Literally have to corner him in the shop to get on the dyno and then he gets all p-issy. What even have the friggin thing???

jrcart

I've seen some evidence that those dynapack hub dynos are even more accurate than a dyno dynamics because tire compound pressure and rolling resistance/friction is taken out of the equation. However I have also been told they read high because they don't factor out the lack of wheel weight which obviously results in a higher number and a different driveline loss multiplier. Example, my Dymags gave me about 25 ponies due to their light weight, now imagine dynoing a car with no wheels as you do on the dynapack. Dynapacks have been getting more and more attention lately with all the awd performance cars out there, all the Audi, Subi WRX and Mitsubishi Evo shops are switching over to the dynapack.

jrcart

One more thing, I am good friends with a guy here in Chicago that has a shop with a dynapack dyno, he does have to charge a higher hourly rate on the dynapack because there is more labor invloved, the car needs to be lifted and all wheels removed and then reinstalled, however the hourly rate should not be double.

BerBer63

What's the knock on dynojet 248? Just curious because I used one for my stock numbers.

chiromikey

they're fine for guestimating wot hp it's an inertia dyno instead of a load bearing dyno which prevents any "real" tuning from being done.

prodigymb

thats not completely true. you can tune just fine on a dynojet

i have done it my self to other cars, and i have seen it done on my car.

chiromikey

sure it can be done but probably not without road time involved...but are we talking about full custom tuning or adjusting parameters for a wot pull? for years i've watched dynojet tuned vehicles get walked by ones tuned on load bearing (eddy current) dynos.

prodigymb

i'd have to say it will depend on application and tuner. dj is nice way to see change in power.....thats about it

Max.H

Load dyno is much easier to tune. A lot quicker because you can breeze through the load cells in the map. Dynojet is great for comparing numbers because it is still the industry standard. I have personal experience with dynapack and i hated it. That's another subject.

I say Dynojet.

AMS Performance

http://www.dyno.com.au/dyno/controller/locator

Case Closed.

cdd

What's the verdict on a Dynojet 424xLC?

http://www.dynojet.com/automotive_dy...o/default.aspx


Getting my baseline dyno next week.

EDIT: Apologies for the slight threadjack...

Jakpro1

Case back open. There are no DD's in this God Forsaken place.

Think I am pretty much conviced to go down to the Dynapack at this point.

Also have a call into Cobb Tuning as they have a pretty nice dyno and are down the street from me. I p-issed them off 2 years ago when I wouldn't let them drive the car on the dyno so I may be

TTAMG

First off just to get everyone straight on the dyno, dynojet has the Eddy current available for all of their dyno's including the 248 and all versions of the 224. Yes it is easier to tune with the Eddy current because like one of the members said you can load it up and hold the car in a certain cell and tune the perfect afr or timing or whatever. When you start loading up cars that make a lot of power the Eddy current is nowhere near powerful enough to hold load btw. Dynojet's numbers are dead on accurate and i know this because i have one and i have done multiple tests between engine dyno's and chassis dyno's and i have done hundreds of cars and overall it proves to be damn close to what the motor is rated at. The reason Dynopak dyno's suck ***** is because they pick up the algorithm for the rpm through the wheel speed which is completely wrong. You can also tell the dyno what gear ratio you have which truely cheats the number. Dynojet picks up its multiplier to calculate through the engine (ie. rpm pick up wire). perfect real life example. My mustang made 1170whp on my own dynojet. We were at my buddys shop and he had dynopak's. Great for tuning, yet we bolted them on my car, and it made something crazy like 1350whp or somewhere around there. With 1350whp my car should of been going somewhere in the 180mph in the 1/4, yet it consistently went in the bottom 170's which is exactly the power it was making.