jangy

I'm looking for a way to add cool air and this bay is just so small. Now, i am looking to pull it in from the vents just above the TB. What I wondered is does anyone have a fabbed deflector to guide most of the flow from up top? I saw a pic of what i want many years ago and never again.

prodigymb

my filter came in last week. i havent put it on yet......maybe this weekend.

jangy

Are you planning any parts to kind of box it in and have the flow come from above?

Where'd you get it and how much? I want to at least try.

prodigymb

i got it from extremepsi.com they are local to me. it was 94$ which is kinda pricey. i just need to rig something up for the 2 pcv tubes that connect to the stock intake from the bottom.

i am first going to try the filter on top of the tb, with the plastic cover removed for the hood vents. if that doesnt show results, i'll just get a single intake fabbed up. i've gotten several experienced opinions and was told that i do not need to build 2 3" intakes....and that one will be fine.

i got the 80MM one -
http://www.frsport.com/HKS-70019-BK0...mm_p_9382.html

jangy

I agree one is enough, but where to route it to avoid the hot air? Thos small slats by the radiator are so constricting that i am considering a custom radiator (very cheap).

Ali_E55

yes

a Q:

can this be fitted in the begining ofa 3" pipe ?

if yes

then we can install it at the thead and use the space of the filter boxes for a cooler setup, such as covering the intake pipes with small tanks of water, or etc.

prodigymb

heh dunno. i do know that if you route it to the front over the entire engine bay it will be a giant heat soak poop trap. the longer the pipe the more hot surface area will come in contact with the intake air traveling to the throttle body.

have you looked into the custom rad? it may be more complicated because the rad core is also used to cool the tranny at least in 03s and early 04s. i am nto sure about the later models.

Karlson

for real? I think that mushroom filter is the ricest you can ever get. I had never put jdm on any European cars I owned, I like bmc airfilters

Thericker

These Mushroom filters are $78.34 Cheaper, than HKS Mushroom filters look the same, Silicone couplers all sizes dirt cheap...Try this Site....Quality stuff I have (2) mushroom/foam filters/ few Silicone couplers etc...
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A universal, high-flowing sponge-style air filter for cold air intake installation on a round pipe.

These air filters have filter material and shape designed to flow as much air as possible while looking great. These can also be installed in areas with less depth than standard air filters.



PRICE: $14.99


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3.0" Silicone Straight Coupler, Red, Blue, Black Price $6.99

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Silicone couplers...3.5 in / 89 mm ID x 3.0 in Length Price $13.00 Ea.

shardul

iTrader: (1)

Prodigymb let us know what the outcome is.

prodigymb

your filters are foam... they are not the mushroom filter (unless you changed them since you posted picture). i'm a firm believer in you get what you pay for and the HKS power flow filter has been tried and tested for years (look @ Supra forums, Skyline forums). no doubt you are overpaying bit for brand but the HKS is different then what you posted - notice the screws in the back of the HKS.....those are there so that you can open the filter up and change the filter element if you need to ( which is 20-25$ i think).

JustPete

Are these being used in conjunction with the factory filters???

I hope so.

We did some dyno tests (On custom bikes) with foam filters ... If you want that thing to work ... you'd better clean it a LOT. They clog up and lose flow real fast. On Vtwins over the course of several hundred miles of riding, hp/trq numbers would drop fast.

Personally ... I'd never put one of those things on a Mercedes Kompressor engine. If you let that get too dirty, don't be surprised when that Kompressor sucks that foam right out of that mushroom and wrecks that S/C.

Caveat Emptor .... check that filter often ... once it starts to clog up with fine particles lodge deep inside the foam it will start fighting the Kompressor.

blackbenzz

You don't want your intake piping to be llimiting air intake. The smallest point of your intake should be your TB, just my opinion.

If you are just putting the filter on top of the TB with the hood vents removed, what are you going to do when it rains?
How would running a single pipe to the front of the car be any different in terms of heat soak compare to the stock airboxes that literally sit on top of the valve covers

JustPete

That is absolutely correct. The larger the area of static air before the TB the better.

I'd never put those on the TB. That's a disaster waiting to happen unless the car is going to be a racer only and checked after every drive.

prodigymb

I agree. Why would a free flowing 80mm air filter limit airflow to an 80mm throttle body
the filter sits few inches further then the vents and would not get soaked.

a single 3" pipe will have less hot surface area coming in conact with the air before it reaches the TB ( or in case of putting on the tb it will have none)then the stock heat trap airbox which traps a lot of heat under it. the factory airboxes also heat the filters up which sit right over the valve covers, air slows down when it passes through the filters so the location of the filter is fairly important. i did not say i was going to pipe it to the front of the car yet, and if i do there are heat wraps to help keep it cooler.

HKS is a bit different then BMC and like I said before there are a lot of people that use these on cars.

JustPete

The filter itself is the restriction.

Ask yourself this simple question. Does an open 80mm hole flow better than one with foam covering it?

The answer should be obvious.

There's a reason air filters are typically a few multiples larger than the TB opening.

You're going from a filter area from stock probably 6x the size of the TB to one almost equal to it.

Seriously ... you'd better check that set up often. If that filter clogs enough, it'll get collapsed by the SC.

We saw foam filters getting deformed on big bore N/A Vtwins. I shudder to think what a Kompressor will do to a clogged foam filter.

With the greater surface area of the stock twin filter set up ... I'd bet money it flows better than a single foam filter.

Ghostrider

The filter size itself is 150mm of area, the 80mm is just the outlet size.

Ghostrider

I think its a very workable idea, but because of the engine you are working with you should probably look at using two (2) filters instead of just the one.

blackbenzz

I was referring to the single 3" pipe you were talking about doing.

My point exactly, I thought you were saying having a pipe up to a cone filter would be worse than the stock airboxes when in fact it is the other way around. I dont know why MB puts airboxes directly on top of valve covers, doesn't make much sense to me.

prodigymb

no i def agree that even with a pipe it will still be better than airboxes, because you can place the pipe a bit further away from the valve cover, you could also make a heat shield on the bottom and use heat wrap or heat blanket! hks mushroom is very compact and should be pretty easy to work with.

either way first i need to either buy a data logger or find someone that wants to help me out with logging IATs thats local to me

stock air boxes are steam cookers

JustPete

True ... and I understood that, but you also have all the honey comb coverage and the obstruction of the filter itself.

Compare the surface area to what the twin OEM filters are and I'll bet there's a big lacking.

At the very least , it should be split and 2 used.

Ideally, (And I'm only speaking from experience other than with 55 Kompressors but I think the same rules apply) you want as little pressure drop as possible from the filtration. The best way to do that is with the least restriction (No filter) or redundant filter surface area which creates low pressure across a larger area.

Having just enough will be a problem very quickly unless that filter is cleaned very often.

prodigymb

ideally you want to have no vacuum outside of the throttle body, when you achieve that that means the filter/ intake used is working and you can't do better. i am pretty confident that if i add a vacuum gauge to that setup there will not be any vacuum and that one filter will be enough, if not i can always get another one and run 2.

as far as clening them goes, you can either clean it or buy a replacement filter element for them for 18-20$ and you have a choice of wet and dry filter elements for the same price...
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=787&rsku=4577

keep in mind the location of the air filter on the motorcycles you are talking about vs our application. aren't bikes ram air?

JustPete

Not really ram air. That concept is a fallacy. For "Ram Air" to actually work you need to be doing about 500mph. On the dyno it's completely a non issue unless you shove a blower against the intake (Which actually does very little anyway).

Turbulence do more harm than good. We tested multiple intakes and filters. And as I said ... granted, it's not a 55AMG engine ... but the air flow principles are the same.

Keep in mind ... you're trading approximately 90,000 sq mm of filter area for 17,700 sq mm. (Duh sorry for miscalc)

And the point I'm trying to make here is this ... not only will you get less pressure drop (Or vacuum if you will) with the much greater filter surface area ... but it will be effective much longer.

Operating at the limit of acceptable (Especially with foam which clogs FAST) is going to go unacceptable very fast.

Anyway ... that's my opinion based on work I've done with N/A Vtwins. The principles are the same.

I'd be very afraid of putting a foam filter in line with forced induction.

When your vacuum goes negative (And it will quickly without frequent maintenance) I'll wager that SC can generate enough vacuum to suck that foam to pieces.

prodigymb

they do on supras all the time. those guys are crazy about the green mushroom filters hehe.

i'll try to find an old boost gauge, i'm sure i have one around and measure vacuum at the filter.

as far as maintenance it is suggested every 3-5k depending on where you live and even if you replace the filter element it will only cost 20$. i do not drive much so i don't care about that to be honest with you.

JustPete

So long as you keep it clean ... you should be OK ... I guess.

For the record ... K&N type filters always did better and last longer ... but don't filter as well I'd bet.

Personally I don't see a problem with the factory set up except for the heating issue.