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#51
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4 wheeled car.
Looks like an aftermarket pulley install that missed the TQing process, so the bolt backed out, the pulley ran loose and basically melted the mount of the pulley onto the crank....
2 CRITICAL steps that many of us (me too) learn too late:
1 - Line up the key into the key way and make sure it slides in smoothly.
2 - TQ properly.
Seems simple, but it leads to major change if somethng is off.
2 CRITICAL steps that many of us (me too) learn too late:
1 - Line up the key into the key way and make sure it slides in smoothly.
2 - TQ properly.
Seems simple, but it leads to major change if somethng is off.
#52
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CLS55 AMG 030
An opinion here, but in my experience crank pulleys gone awry often lead to other trickle down issues in the motor. In this particular instance, it may not be the case, but having that crank pulley loose could have cause all kinds of wierd things to go wrong inside the block... bearings, seals, who knows. I don't think I'd try rebuilding unless you have a big cash reserve in case things aren't all as they seem - which doesn't seem to be the case in this instance.
Get yourself a new shortblock... and then maybe tear down the old one and see what you find. You may be able to salvage it or sell off some bits to recover the costs of the new (used) shortblock.
-m
Get yourself a new shortblock... and then maybe tear down the old one and see what you find. You may be able to salvage it or sell off some bits to recover the costs of the new (used) shortblock.
-m
#54
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When I say shortblock, I mean assembled shortblock - meaning, crank/rods/pistons/etc. You do not need a long block (for which you should consider yourself lucky, as it adds significant cost). Your shortblock might be just fine aside from a damaged crank, but it also might have all kinds of issues that will cost you a lot more in the long term.
Find yourself a good used short block, and stick that in there. There is no "cheap" solution to a damaged crank, but looking at these numbers if you can land a used 55k shortblock for $4000-$5000 that is a killer deal. I would give the engine you would buy a look over to make sure it's not been sitting outside with water collecting anywhere, making sure it doesn't have any obvious damage, etc. You'd be surprised how junkyards treat engines.
EDIT: Just looked at some links and it's $5000 for a complete engine?! That's almost too cheap to be true IMO... if you can get a complete engine for $5k and just reuse the shortblock you could easily part other things out from it and collect a lot of your investment back. Talk to Chris about this, he will be able to guide you through this process.
-m
Last edited by Marcus Frost; 08-27-2009 at 02:49 AM.
#56
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#57
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#58
pull the motor, leave the gear on the crank, pull the crank out of the block, remove it with a press and heat, then have the damaged end of the crank tig welded and then have it resurfaced on a lathe. a good machine shop can do all of this for you, and ensure that nothing else was damaged on the crank, this is not an uncommon thing in the performance world. and it will not cost you nearly as much as you think.
then you have the option of freshening up the rings when you put it all back together.
then you have the option of freshening up the rings when you put it all back together.
#59
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pull the motor, leave the gear on the crank, pull the crank out of the block, remove it with a press and heat, then have the damaged end of the crank tig welded and then have it resurfaced on a lathe. a good machine shop can do all of this for you, and ensure that nothing else was damaged on the crank, this is not an uncommon thing in the performance world. and it will not cost you nearly as much as you think.
then you have the option of freshening up the rings when you put it all back together.
then you have the option of freshening up the rings when you put it all back together.
#60
They need to just cut the gear down the center and split it. It's not hard to do.
I find it very hard to believe the key way is twisted. Keys are almost always the noble metal ... 99.999% of the time. The shaft key way may be damaged slightly but I doubt it's unusable or repairable once the gear is off.
I find it very hard to believe the key way is twisted. Keys are almost always the noble metal ... 99.999% of the time. The shaft key way may be damaged slightly but I doubt it's unusable or repairable once the gear is off.
#61
yes, cutting it is an option if it cant be pressed. i also find it hard to believe that the key way is damaged. A forged crank vs a junk woodruff key normally ends with the crank winning. but it should be fixable regardless
#62
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#63
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pull the motor, leave the gear on the crank, pull the crank out of the block, remove it with a press and heat, then have the damaged end of the crank tig welded and then have it resurfaced on a lathe. a good machine shop can do all of this for you, and ensure that nothing else was damaged on the crank, this is not an uncommon thing in the performance world. and it will not cost you nearly as much as you think.
then you have the option of freshening up the rings when you put it all back together.
then you have the option of freshening up the rings when you put it all back together.
Pull the old motor, replace it with a new (used) one, pull parts off it that are not compatible as required (oil pan, wire harnesses, etc). You can also sell parts off the current motor and recover some of the cost as well.
-m
#64
an air grinder with cut off wheel, a flat head and 10 mins and its off, i would never think about using a plasma, you cant control depth and all the material your cutting will just get blasted into the crank
#66
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CLS55 AMG 030
Trust me its growing very slow here. I thought about this but then read that when there are crank problems it trickles down to other problems. So i was thinking of buying a engine i found minus the SC , i think I can talk him down to $3000 I hope. Then I can part most of my engine I hope and make most of that money back , so I think thats the real money doesn't grow on trees solution for me. But if he doesnt come down on the price I'm going to look into a machine shop doing work on the crank.
#67
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96 and 08 911 turbos
before you buy any engine, I would have a leakdown test performed and at least pull the pan and valve covers off to check out the internal condition. A used engine is a big risk, especially in accident cars.
I'd probably disassemble and try to repair the crank if necessary. Contrary to the common belief on these forums, this motor is nothing exotic or unusual. A standard zero balance fully counterweighted forged crank is pretty standard in performance V8s. A decent machine shop should easily be able to handle it. The crank is not terribly stressed in a stockish motor anyway.
I'd probably disassemble and try to repair the crank if necessary. Contrary to the common belief on these forums, this motor is nothing exotic or unusual. A standard zero balance fully counterweighted forged crank is pretty standard in performance V8s. A decent machine shop should easily be able to handle it. The crank is not terribly stressed in a stockish motor anyway.
#68
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Go back and read his other posts. Crank bolt spins in the crank now. Rubber in the oil pan. You are suggesting this option without having read the full story. I don't know the full story either, but if you look at the details I think this isn't going to be solved by a simple a cut-and-dry machine the crank solution.
It could be just a machine job, but if it isn't a lot of money is going to be spent for nothing.
-m
#69
Yep those were my thoughts exactly. It's the same as splitting a nut thought in this case I'd make 3 centerline cuts at about 4 , 8 and 12 oclock.
#70
I did read that, it would obviously be prudent to check everything else within the motor before spending the money at the machine shop, a stripped crank snout can also be fixed fairly easly. at the end of the day a new motor might be called for, but in my experience its always cheaper to fix what you have than invest in a motor and hope to sell the broken one to make some money back.
#71
Sorry to hear the bad news, as I mentioned before I too had problems with my wooodruf key (broken), but thankfully the keyway was undamaged. According to my mechanic one of 2 things can cause this to happen, an improperly balanced pulley or an improper install. I had an oil leak and went in to check the valve cover and engine seals only to hear the devastating news. Hopefully you can resolve this sooner than later because at the rate our cars depreciate......................
#72
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E-ZGO 53hp., 1999 E 430 sport, 2004 E 55, 2008 Tahoe LTZ on 24"s
pull the motor, leave the gear on the crank, pull the crank out of the block, remove it with a press and heat, then have the damaged end of the crank tig welded and then have it resurfaced on a lathe. a good machine shop can do all of this for you, and ensure that nothing else was damaged on the crank, this is not an uncommon thing in the performance world. and it will not cost you nearly as much as you think.
then you have the option of freshening up the rings when you put it all back together.
then you have the option of freshening up the rings when you put it all back together.
One shop routinely repairs cranks for MTU 16V396 engines, 3500 HP(that engine cost about $750K)
The repair could have been done by now. One last comment, any tech that would not have suggested this course of action in the first place, may not have the knowledge needed for this situation.
#73
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'06 cls 55 amg, '03 Range Rover HSE, 88 Firebird Formula
100% agree...since I'm in the same boat because my pulley came off and sheared off my keyway hole as well.
Last edited by BlackBeast'06; 08-31-2009 at 12:51 AM.
#74
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'06 cls 55 amg, '03 Range Rover HSE, 88 Firebird Formula
Looks like an aftermarket pulley install that missed the TQing process, so the bolt backed out, the pulley ran loose and basically melted the mount of the pulley onto the crank....
2 CRITICAL steps that many of us (me too) learn too late:
1 - Line up the key into the key way and make sure it slides in smoothly.
2 - TQ properly.
Seems simple, but it leads to major change if somethng is off.
2 CRITICAL steps that many of us (me too) learn too late:
1 - Line up the key into the key way and make sure it slides in smoothly.
2 - TQ properly.
Seems simple, but it leads to major change if somethng is off.
![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
#75
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CLS55 AMG 030
Yes, this is a fact and a lesson learned for all (me included) be certain the person who ever installs any aftermarket parts know what they are doing and have the correct tools to do the install. I'm still paying the price for a bad pulley install. I"m in the same boat as Renntech55 ![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)