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Battery keeps dying!!
#1
Battery keeps dying!!
For some reason when my car sits for more than 2 days the battery is dead.
Everything in the car is shut off but the battery keeps dying. Any thoughts?
Oh yea both batteries are less than 4 months old.
Everything in the car is shut off but the battery keeps dying. Any thoughts?
Oh yea both batteries are less than 4 months old.
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Did you check your charging system?
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Easiest way is right through the gauge cluster. Yes, perhaps your alternator is not giving the battery a sufficient charge. Pure speculation at this point. But, It's a good place to start.
You can do this by turning the key to the 1st position and pressing the reset button quickly 3 times. The battery voltage should display. Mine reads about 12.2 volts off and 13.9 volts when the car is on.
You can do this by turning the key to the 1st position and pressing the reset button quickly 3 times. The battery voltage should display. Mine reads about 12.2 volts off and 13.9 volts when the car is on.
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#10
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Location: Saskatchewan
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1969 280S, 1991 300E
Maybe something is constantly drawing from the battery. It should throw a code, though, if that's the case. I've seen cars that have been boosted improperly come in & need multiple modules replaced cuz they keep killing batteries.
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
unfortunately it is not uncommon for recent model MBs (heavily electronic
reliant) to suffer from occasional parasitic power drain when the ignition is
off.
if you've already discounted the easy checks (voltage regulator, alternator,
battery health/condition), then the next thing are the appliances such as
door and seat control modules.
check amperage draw with ignition off. then, unplug devices systematically
(while still observing amp reading) to attempt to isolate failed part.
if this isn't making any sense, find a buddy who has electrical/electronic
knowledge and buy him/her lunch and let tackle this
reliant) to suffer from occasional parasitic power drain when the ignition is
off.
if you've already discounted the easy checks (voltage regulator, alternator,
battery health/condition), then the next thing are the appliances such as
door and seat control modules.
check amperage draw with ignition off. then, unplug devices systematically
(while still observing amp reading) to attempt to isolate failed part.
if this isn't making any sense, find a buddy who has electrical/electronic
knowledge and buy him/her lunch and let tackle this
#14
Thanks for all the input guys.
I might take it to the stealership and see if they can diagnose the problem..
how can i check on the overhead control module?
its only when the car is sitting for a while i checked the voltage after 1 day and it seems fine.
I might take it to the stealership and see if they can diagnose the problem..
how can i check on the overhead control module?
its only when the car is sitting for a while i checked the voltage after 1 day and it seems fine.
#18
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E-ZGO 53hp., 1999 E 430 sport, 2004 E 55, 2008 Tahoe LTZ on 24"s
TSB Number & Issue Date TSB Title
P-54_21-137 MAR 05 Electrical - Battery Control Module Reprogramming
P-54_21-113 SEP 04 Battery - No Start Condition Due To Quiescent Drain
Last edited by Yacht Master; 01-05-2010 at 09:52 PM.
#23
Have the same problem.
I've replaced the voltage regulator and replaced both batteries.
Ive pulled each and every fuse from the trunk, the front driverside dash panel, and the front underhood. I couldnt find the one in the underfloor of the passenger side
If i drive it everyday its not bad. But after three days or more its charging at 6v. Obviously the car is not starting
I could throw money at the BCM in the trunk but that's no guarantee either
it could be the polyswitch fuse under the dash?
I have a tech friend at the dealer who updated all the software for me free of charge.
Still didn't fix it
Going to bring it back to him to do a trace, thats the only way
Unless you want to locate all four or five fuse boxes and do a amp draw test?
I've replaced the voltage regulator and replaced both batteries.
Ive pulled each and every fuse from the trunk, the front driverside dash panel, and the front underhood. I couldnt find the one in the underfloor of the passenger side
If i drive it everyday its not bad. But after three days or more its charging at 6v. Obviously the car is not starting
I could throw money at the BCM in the trunk but that's no guarantee either
it could be the polyswitch fuse under the dash?
I have a tech friend at the dealer who updated all the software for me free of charge.
Still didn't fix it
Going to bring it back to him to do a trace, thats the only way
Unless you want to locate all four or five fuse boxes and do a amp draw test?
#24
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sleepy Hollow, IL
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65 Chevelle Wagon w/ C5 frame, 08 ML63, 04 S600, 04 E55,(sold) 00 ML55,(sold) 98 C43-55K Swap
It may sound stupid but some people still have the old v60 phones still plugged in and they can cause a draw. Easy fix, take it out of the cradle. Had one come in a few weeks ago.
#25
Junior Member
Moose....I went out and bought a volt / amp meter this afternoon. Charging the battery on my S500 and I think its almost at full charge. I will do a fuse / amp test in the morning with my Wife's help and hopefully locate the draw.
Failing which, I guess I will have no option, and will take it into MB and hold my breath as to how much that is going to cost.
Let me know how it works out with your car. I will post an update when I have anything to add.
Failing which, I guess I will have no option, and will take it into MB and hold my breath as to how much that is going to cost.
Let me know how it works out with your car. I will post an update when I have anything to add.