StarPower

***Back from the dead!***

My bearing completely disintegrated. I found the pulley lying on the bottom of the engine bay with the inner ring of the bearing still on the shaft and the outer ring of the bearing still in the pulley. The problem with this is that there's no surface to press onto to get the outer ring of the bearing out of the pulley. Any ideas?

Hellzno

can you find a socket to line up with the bearing sleeve so you can hammer it out. or can you put the original busted one back in and hammer that.

isellbenz

Is this the tensioner idler pulley NEXT to the SC Clutch?? (top) Another down below?? Any specifics on brand to use? Looks like a skateboard wheel bearing!!

StarPower

I modified a pair of pliers to grip the inside of it and pounded it on a table until it came out. Hopefully I'll get the new bearing in the mail today so I can get it installed.

StarPower

The tensioner is the one right next to the SC clutch. This mod works for the idler pulley located below the tensioner (above the alternator), but I'm not sure if it works on the tensioner too.

tbal

Slight bump from the dead!

This bearing the same for the idler, tensioner and serpentine pulleys?

AMG_RL

I don't believe you can do this for the tensioner T, I vaguely recall the bearing being locked into the tensioner. Correct me if I'm wrong but i ended up buying a new tensioner.

tbal

Thanks bro, I think it's the idler, but thought I make sure...

ssonss1

Bump again, tbal and I are changing the bearing on the cls, so far so good, just having a real tough time getting the c clamp out. It's not budging at all. Any tips??

Thanks

lowprofile

Spray it with your favorite penetrating oil. Next, the bearing might be binding the c-clip so try to tap it away from the c-clip. If it still will not budge, take a small drift and small hammer and try driving the c-clip around the inside of the groove channel. Once it starts moving you should be all set.
You are using c-clip pliers, correct?

ssonss1

Thanks for the quick reply. We ended up breaking the clip so we gave up and I picked up a new set of asp pulleys that nicco had finishing it tomorrow

tbal

Getting the c clip off is a sob better to just replace with the better made asp set.

Wish I had smaller hands lol

barlow100

You are correct the bearing is held in place on the tensioner but any shop worth its salt will be able to replace bearing depite this. Just had mine done at the local engineering shop.... he said it was straightforward. Bet its cheaper than a new tensioner.
Had a nut welded on the torx head bolt for easy removal next time as it was difficult to remove.

GRAFH

Anyone have the brand of the bearing removed? Also the part # on the bearing?

desired_speeds

hate to bump this thread, but is this the bearing you guys are using?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6203-2NSE-Na...item1e66c06950

pearlpower

I would hold out for a ZZ rated bearing. Ceramic. Up to 17000rpm+

Mine is still on with no issues since this threads inception.

desired_speeds

can you link me to one of the same ones you got? thnx

munich55

I know it's an old thread but i tried to change the bearing and bought the 6203zz but there was no sleeve and the stock bearing is a bit wider.

BBBSS

I'm looking at getting a new bearing and I'm trying to figure out what the best possible bearing would be since they are only a few dollars each. If I have to pay double for a lil more quality I wouldn't even blink due to how cheap this is.

That being said I've been doing some research and ran across this website. I like to refer to it as everything you ever wanted to know about ball bearings in one place.

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Bal...%20Primer.ashx

Once I decide on a bearing I will post what I'm choosing to go with. I'm thinking I want a sealed as opposed to shielded bearing at this time though. The factory seemed to deem sealed up to the task even though they typically are used in lower RPM applications in general. Shielded are not sealed and will allow fine dust into the bearing. Also not sure if a "ZZ" is necessary.

Does anyone have a measurement of the outside diameter of the idler? Between that and the crank pulley and max RPM of the motor we should be able to figure out if a "high speed bearing" is really needed.

I've found the ORS bearings website (original manufacturer) and they have a shielded and sealed option shown.
http://idc-store.com/orsbearings-2.aspx

GRAFH

Save your time and energy and get a new #29 at the end of this thread >> https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...rt-number.html

NikolaosPsarros

I have one 2002 c32 amg w 50k , and my supercharger having this noise like in this video from YouTube , 3 mechanics 3 different opinions first to replace the all spcgr and pulleys for 4500$ second to change the inside BS part for 1300$ minimum and a third just waiting ,what did you think I can do ? car in excellent condition except this issue , no personal experience with garage and hand work at cars , thanks

NikolaosPsarros

?

gaspam

sounds like your s/c pulley bearing.... take the belt off and spin all the pulleys by hand, one by one to find out which one is making the noise... if its the idler or tensioner pullies then its just easy bolt on replacement for under $100 used.... if its the main s/c pulley then you can replace the bearing and its a $80 diy job... i did mine a while ago and worked like a charm

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...g-install.html

sealrockswell

Resurrection. My 2003 e55 idler pulley fell apart and half of the bolt is stuck inside of the water pump assembly. I already have a replacement for the pulley assembly save for the bolt that broke off. Any idea on a replacement bolt for this specific part?

tmounib

Very clear pictures in relation to what happen to the bearing ,, but no one ever posted how to take the idler off??? Mine had (STRIPPED) head and was not able to get it off,, I had to INVENT my own tools and get it out, was not easy but I got it done, took me 3 days of trying , when I asked several mechanics, the main advise was (remove the radiator and the condenser ) in order to drill a hole in the idler bolt's head and use extractor, I did it in much easier way, I got 90 Degree drill adapter and nice drill bit was able to fit the drill bit and the adapter without even touching the radiator, drilled the bolt, got everything out , installed the new idler, belt etc and bingo,,
Wish I can find easy way to post some picture to share with everyone.
Good luck to you all
TMOUNIB