DIY: SC Idler Pulley Bearing repair
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 154
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From: SC
2003 Lincoln LS V8
Problem
***Back from the dead!***
My bearing completely disintegrated. I found the pulley lying on the bottom of the engine bay with the inner ring of the bearing still on the shaft and the outer ring of the bearing still in the pulley. The problem with this is that there's no surface to press onto to get the outer ring of the bearing out of the pulley. Any ideas?
My bearing completely disintegrated. I found the pulley lying on the bottom of the engine bay with the inner ring of the bearing still on the shaft and the outer ring of the bearing still in the pulley. The problem with this is that there's no surface to press onto to get the outer ring of the bearing out of the pulley. Any ideas?
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 154
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From: SC
2003 Lincoln LS V8
I modified a pair of pliers to grip the inside of it and pounded it on a table until it came out. Hopefully I'll get the new bearing in the mail today so I can get it installed.
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 154
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From: SC
2003 Lincoln LS V8
The tensioner is the one right next to the SC clutch. This mod works for the idler pulley located below the tensioner (above the alternator), but I'm not sure if it works on the tensioner too.
Super Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 781
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From: Bay Area, CA
E55 AMG, 72' Toyota Carina, 63' Ford F100, 72' Mercedes 250c, 15' Harley Davidson Softail
I don't believe you can do this for the tensioner T, I vaguely recall the bearing being locked into the tensioner. Correct me if I'm wrong but i ended up buying a new tensioner.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 2
From: Vancouver BC
Flying Spur
Bump again, tbal and I are changing the bearing on the cls, so far so good, just having a real tough time getting the c clamp out. It's not budging at all. Any tips??
Thanks
Thanks
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 5
E55
Spray it with your favorite penetrating oil. Next, the bearing might be binding the c-clip so try to tap it away from the c-clip. If it still will not budge, take a small drift and small hammer and try driving the c-clip around the inside of the groove channel. Once it starts moving you should be all set.
You are using c-clip pliers, correct?
You are using c-clip pliers, correct?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,203
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From: Vancouver BC
Flying Spur
Spray it with your favorite penetrating oil. Next, the bearing might be binding the c-clip so try to tap it away from the c-clip. If it still will not budge, take a small drift and small hammer and try driving the c-clip around the inside of the groove channel. Once it starts moving you should be all set.
You are using c-clip pliers, correct?
You are using c-clip pliers, correct?
so we gave up and I picked up a new set of asp pulleys that nicco had finishing it tomorrow
lol
Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 77
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From: New Zealand
2012 E63 Bi Turbo
You are correct the bearing is held in place on the tensioner but any shop worth its salt will be able to replace bearing depite this. Just had mine done at the local engineering shop.... he said it was straightforward. Bet its cheaper than a new tensioner.
Had a nut welded on the torx head bolt for easy removal next time as it was difficult to remove.
Had a nut welded on the torx head bolt for easy removal next time as it was difficult to remove.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,396
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From: Bay Area, CA
2007 SL55 AMG
hate to bump this thread, but is this the bearing you guys are using?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6203-2NSE-Na...item1e66c06950
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6203-2NSE-Na...item1e66c06950
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,825
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From: Southern California
E55 w/ goods, Z32 Project underway
hate to bump this thread, but is this the bearing you guys are using?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6203-2NSE-Na...item1e66c06950
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6203-2NSE-Na...item1e66c06950
I would hold out for a ZZ rated bearing. Ceramic. Up to 17000rpm+
Mine is still on with no issues since this threads inception.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 290
Likes: 3
From: Germany
E55 AMG W210 - sold, E55 AMG W211 - sold, CLS 500 C219 - sold, E63S AMG W212 - sold, C63S AMG A205
I know it's an old thread but i tried to change the bearing and bought the 6203zz but there was no sleeve and the stock bearing is a bit wider.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,212
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From: Chicago
03 E55 AMG, 06 Harley Road King Custom 06 Ram 2500 Cummins, 97 Firebird Race Car, 88 Cutlass Supreme
I'm looking at getting a new bearing and I'm trying to figure out what the best possible bearing would be since they are only a few dollars each. If I have to pay double for a lil more quality I wouldn't even blink due to how cheap this is.
That being said I've been doing some research and ran across this website. I like to refer to it as everything you ever wanted to know about ball bearings in one place.
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Bal...%20Primer.ashx
Once I decide on a bearing I will post what I'm choosing to go with. I'm thinking I want a sealed as opposed to shielded bearing at this time though. The factory seemed to deem sealed up to the task even though they typically are used in lower RPM applications in general. Shielded are not sealed and will allow fine dust into the bearing. Also not sure if a "ZZ" is necessary.
Does anyone have a measurement of the outside diameter of the idler? Between that and the crank pulley and max RPM of the motor we should be able to figure out if a "high speed bearing" is really needed.
I've found the ORS bearings website (original manufacturer) and they have a shielded and sealed option shown.
http://idc-store.com/orsbearings-2.aspx
That being said I've been doing some research and ran across this website. I like to refer to it as everything you ever wanted to know about ball bearings in one place.
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Bal...%20Primer.ashx
Once I decide on a bearing I will post what I'm choosing to go with. I'm thinking I want a sealed as opposed to shielded bearing at this time though. The factory seemed to deem sealed up to the task even though they typically are used in lower RPM applications in general. Shielded are not sealed and will allow fine dust into the bearing. Also not sure if a "ZZ" is necessary.
Does anyone have a measurement of the outside diameter of the idler? Between that and the crank pulley and max RPM of the motor we should be able to figure out if a "high speed bearing" is really needed.
I've found the ORS bearings website (original manufacturer) and they have a shielded and sealed option shown.
http://idc-store.com/orsbearings-2.aspx
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: Riverwoods, Il
2005 E55 AMG
Save your time and energy and get a new #29 at the end of this thread >> https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...rt-number.html
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 13
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2002 c32 AMG
I have one 2002 c32 amg w 50k , and my supercharger having this noise like in this video from YouTube , 3 mechanics 3 different opinions first to replace the all spcgr and pulleys for 4500$ second to change the inside BS part for 1300$ minimum and a third just waiting ,what did you think I can do ? car in excellent condition except this issue , no personal experience with garage and hand work at cars , thanks
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,841
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From: miami / delray beach
2014 E63s amg 4matic, 2009 C63, 2006 E55 AMG , 2001.5 AUDI S4 stg 3+ w/meth
sounds like your s/c pulley bearing.... take the belt off and spin all the pulleys by hand, one by one to find out which one is making the noise... if its the idler or tensioner pullies then its just easy bolt on replacement for under $100 used.... if its the main s/c pulley then you can replace the bearing and its a $80 diy job... i did mine a while ago and worked like a charm
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...g-install.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...g-install.html
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
2003 Mercedes-Benz W211 E55 AMG
Resurrection. My 2003 e55 idler pulley fell apart and half of the bolt is stuck inside of the water pump assembly. I already have a replacement for the pulley assembly save for the bolt that broke off. Any idea on a replacement bolt for this specific part?
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Winchester VA, USA
wdbjf55fxtj020203
Very clear pictures in relation to what happen to the bearing ,, but no one ever posted how to take the idler off??? Mine had (STRIPPED) head and was not able to get it off,, I had to INVENT my own tools and get it out, was not easy but I got it done, took me 3 days of trying , when I asked several mechanics, the main advise was (remove the radiator and the condenser ) in order to drill a hole in the idler bolt's head and use extractor, I did it in much easier way, I got 90 Degree drill adapter and nice drill bit was able to fit the drill bit and the adapter without even touching the radiator, drilled the bolt, got everything out , installed the new idler, belt etc and bingo,,
Wish I can find easy way to post some picture to share with everyone.
Good luck to you all
TMOUNIB
Wish I can find easy way to post some picture to share with everyone.
Good luck to you all
TMOUNIB
