DIY: SC Idler Pulley Bearing repair
06-01-2016, 01:04 AM
#51
Senior Member
Torque? / Cover removal
As we all know, the OEM supercharger idler pulley bearing is prone to premature wear. The factory pulley is expensive as usual and the only item that goes south on these is the bearing which is readily available from many sources including Ebay for under $5.00.
First off, keep in mind that this can be done in the garage , a press is recommended though with perseverance it can be done without one. You will just need to get creative with large sockets and/or a vice.
Also, ASP is apparently working on a nice forged unit with a quality bearing for a great price and I would recommend the layman to go that route if you are not comfortable with the following.
The bearing number is a 6203 and I highly recommend purchasing a 6203ZZ which is rated to 17k rpm. I picked mine up for $4.99 to my door.
First thing is to remove the belts and there are xlnt write ups on those below.
Supercharger belt
Serpentine belt
Now on to removing the pulleys as both must be removed at the same time. They are held on with a long bolt and a T50 hex is required at this point. As space is limited I used the T50 with a 10mm box wrench to loosen the bolt and then removed it with my hand.
The entire assembly will come out and you will noticed the front SC idler will just slide off the sleeve.
Once you flip it over you will see a large c-clip. Large c-clip pliers are recommended as smaller or angled units are more prone to slip or bend. It should just take a few seconds. As always I wrap the middle with masking tape to keep the clip from flying away once removed.
Once the c-clip is removed, it is now time to remove the bearing assembly from the pulley. I used a press though a large socket on one end and another socket on the other should allow you to to knock it out.
Once removed you will see the bearing assembly which is encased in a steel sleeve. This will be the most difficult part of the procedure. It is very easy with a press, though again, I suppose placing a large socket under the lip of the sleeve which will allow the bearing to come through would work. Either way, the bearing needs to be removed (you sure you would rather not just buy that ASP unit right now?).
The old bearing in the steel sleeve.
This is what the old bearing (upper right) appears when removed from the sleeve (bottom) and my new bearing (upper left).
The rest is easy.
Just tap the new bearing into the sleeve until it stops.
Install this assembly into the pulley until it stops. There is no exact measurement. Once you have enough room for the c-clip to fit, install it and your done.
First off, keep in mind that this can be done in the garage , a press is recommended though with perseverance it can be done without one. You will just need to get creative with large sockets and/or a vice.
Also, ASP is apparently working on a nice forged unit with a quality bearing for a great price and I would recommend the layman to go that route if you are not comfortable with the following.
The bearing number is a 6203 and I highly recommend purchasing a 6203ZZ which is rated to 17k rpm. I picked mine up for $4.99 to my door.
First thing is to remove the belts and there are xlnt write ups on those below.
Supercharger belt
Serpentine belt
Now on to removing the pulleys as both must be removed at the same time. They are held on with a long bolt and a T50 hex is required at this point. As space is limited I used the T50 with a 10mm box wrench to loosen the bolt and then removed it with my hand.
The entire assembly will come out and you will noticed the front SC idler will just slide off the sleeve.
Once you flip it over you will see a large c-clip. Large c-clip pliers are recommended as smaller or angled units are more prone to slip or bend. It should just take a few seconds. As always I wrap the middle with masking tape to keep the clip from flying away once removed.
Once the c-clip is removed, it is now time to remove the bearing assembly from the pulley. I used a press though a large socket on one end and another socket on the other should allow you to to knock it out.
Once removed you will see the bearing assembly which is encased in a steel sleeve. This will be the most difficult part of the procedure. It is very easy with a press, though again, I suppose placing a large socket under the lip of the sleeve which will allow the bearing to come through would work. Either way, the bearing needs to be removed (you sure you would rather not just buy that ASP unit right now?).
The old bearing in the steel sleeve.
This is what the old bearing (upper right) appears when removed from the sleeve (bottom) and my new bearing (upper left).
The rest is easy.
Just tap the new bearing into the sleeve until it stops.
Install this assembly into the pulley until it stops. There is no exact measurement. Once you have enough room for the c-clip to fit, install it and your done.
How to remove the plastic cover on the idlers?
08-04-2016, 03:39 PM
#52
Member
There was no sleeve when i took the old bearing out and now the new bearing 6203zz I put in is loose and lots of play....I can push the bearing in or out of the pulley by hand force... I reinstalled and it has no noise but has lots of wiggle if i wiggle it. I'm baffled. Can anyone chime in on this?
08-05-2016, 02:52 PM
#54
Member
08-05-2016, 06:22 PM
#55
Member
There was no sleeve when i took the old bearing out and now the new bearing 6203zz I put in is loose and lots of play....I can push the bearing in or out of the pulley by hand force... I reinstalled and it has no noise but has lots of wiggle if i wiggle it. I'm baffled. Can anyone chime in on this?
08-06-2016, 12:31 AM
#56
MBWorld Fanatic!
No, I don't know. I just read the numbers on my bearing and ordered one from amazon. I don't remember a sleeve, but that was two years ago.
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tompoeschel (11-05-2018)
08-06-2016, 06:13 AM
#57
MBWorld Fanatic!
There was no sleeve when i took the old bearing out and now the new bearing 6203zz I put in is loose and lots of play....I can push the bearing in or out of the pulley by hand force... I reinstalled and it has no noise but has lots of wiggle if i wiggle it. I'm baffled. Can anyone chime in on this?
09-10-2016, 08:14 AM
#60
Senior Member
01-18-2019, 12:09 AM
#63
Excellent thread, thank you.
For those in Australia, I couldn't get the Dayco 89130 easily, but it cross-references to a NuLine EP244 which is an all steel pulley which fits perfectly with no mods.
Mine cost $60.
For those in Australia, I couldn't get the Dayco 89130 easily, but it cross-references to a NuLine EP244 which is an all steel pulley which fits perfectly with no mods.
Mine cost $60.
10-19-2019, 06:03 PM
#64
Senior Member
question: Why do people apologize for posting in an old thread,especially when their question is relevant to the information in the thread, regardless of the thread's age?
06-15-2020, 08:01 PM
#65
06-15-2020, 08:13 PM
#66
04-02-2021, 08:58 AM
#67
Senior Member
Does anybody know what size the snap ring is for replacement? I replaced the plastic pulley although I had taken out the snap ring thinking it was necessary to remove the inner shaft to separate the two pulleys but it wasn't. I reused it but I didn't have another bearing to put in the aluminum pulley and I was thinking that I could order a new bearing for the metal pulley and put a new snap ring in there because I reused the slightly bent one.
04-08-2021, 04:40 PM
#68
Senior Member
04-20-2021, 12:07 AM
#69
Senior Member
I paid $100 to order a pulley that had a sleeve and then I did all of that but when I got to the part to put the sleeved bearing back into the pulley, I started pressing it back in, and it went in sideways and I destroyed the whole pulley. What a waste. Now I am a little north of $350 in the hole considering I just ordered a Febi replacement double idler, and the cost of a brand new Mercedes part is around $450.
