W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

Smaller S/C pulley and eliminate S/C Clutch?

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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 02:59 PM
  #1  
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Smaller S/C pulley and eliminate S/C Clutch?

Anyone looked into just removing the S/C Clutch system and going direct drive? I know the S/C clutch can slip, chirp , go bad and cost around 1200-ish plus labor?

Since I had custom ASP idler and tensioner pulley`s made, I was also looking into just going direct drive.. Hell, My S/C is engadged most the time anyway; just the way I like it..

Since I sold my extra S/C clutch and pulley, not sure how all this will fit but should not be to hard..

I see a lot of advantages in doing this..
1) Able to increase or decrease boost with easy S/C change
2) No slip, chirp or delay in wanted boost on demand
3) Not getting raped to replace Clutch fails when it fails.

Disadvantages, would be slight loss of low RPM cruise MPG but I hardly ever see that scenario..

Sure there are a bunch more advantages but that is a few off the top of my head.
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 03:10 PM
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About time somebody try this. This should work like stock if you can incorporate some by-pass valves into the system. Let us know how it go. I believe this will be far more superior than the stock set-up. Two big thumps up for you!!
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 03:15 PM
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I have a smaller S/C clutch pulley on my C32.. it works great. Engages like stock, but the boost comes in sooner. Boost comes in about 500rpms sooner than stock. Can't explain why.. but it really does.

I have seen a smaller S/C clutch pulley for 55 car.. in fact (Code 3) tried to install on my car but could not take out the clutch pulley bolt.. and needed remove the radiator to use impact gun. We didn't have the time and so we left for another time.

Eventually I believe that part was sent to JackPro, since he had Brandon build it for him and he paid for it.

It uses the same size bearing, but reduced slightly. If I remember correctly.. the reduction was not much.. but if tuned correctly..it would yeild more boost.. (as long as the by pass valve is controlled)

If you can work with ASP to make this work.. Or if Jack Pro can send it to you for examination.

It used the same plates as stock.. just the pulley was smaller.
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Exotic-metal55
Anyone looked into just removing the S/C Clutch system and going direct drive? I know the S/C clutch can slip, chirp , go bad and cost around 1200-ish plus labor?

Since I had custom ASP idler and tensioner pulley`s made, I was also looking into just going direct drive.. Hell, My S/C is engadged most the time anyway; just the way I like it..

Since I sold my extra S/C clutch and pulley, not sure how all this will fit but should not be to hard..

I see a lot of advantages in doing this..
1) Able to increase or decrease boost with easy S/C change
2) No slip, chirp or delay in wanted boost on demand
3) Not getting raped to replace Clutch fails when it fails.

Disadvantages, would be slight loss of low RPM cruise MPG but I hardly ever see that scenario..

Sure there are a bunch more advantages but that is a few off the top of my head.
Makes no difference, you still have to control the blower bypass valve. and there goes the last fail safe to detonation prevention, blower disconnect.
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 03:35 PM
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i was always wondering why noone made an "upper pulley". even if the clutch is still there. i personally would not mind going without a clutch, if the ECU doesn't freak out.
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Yacht Master
Makes no difference, you still have to control the blower bypass valve. and there goes the last fail safe to detonation prevention, blower disconnect.
Can you explain? I had no intention of eliminatng the blower bypass valve.. Not sure where that came from.. Just eliminate the S/C clutch and make one pulley that bolts onto the S/C..

prodigymb i was always wondering why noone made an "upper pulley". even if the clutch is still there. i personally would not mind going without a clutch, if the ECU doesn't freak out.
I have seen a lot of post on making a smaller 55 S/C pulley but as I recall the issue was there was not enough room to go much smaller. This was explained in detail but I thought it had to do with being used in conjunction with the clutch.. Again, I have not looked at it hard yet but thought to just eliminate the clutch and see if that allows for smaller and a direct drive pulley..
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CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.

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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 05:11 PM
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I like where your head's at...
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 05:55 PM
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I sound like like a broken record but the Benz ECU is just satan.

Vadim tried welding his supercharger clutch years ago but ECU picked up that it was not disengaging and hello limp mode.

Friggin Benz. Great product but like escaping Alcatraz to mod beyond the basics.

Course someone did make it out of The Rock so keep on trying guys!

Oh on smaller SC pulley, gotta be careful on slippage but worth a shot for sure. I say though if you are gonna spin the crap out of the supercharger, just put on a monster crank pulley. Can't believe the sizes Ali from overseas says they are putting on their cars. 205MM

Must look like a dishplate!
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 06:23 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Exotic-metal55
Can you explain? I had no intention of eliminatng the blower bypass valve.. Not sure where that came from.. Just eliminate the S/C clutch and make one pulley that bolts onto the S/C..
I was under the impression you wanted it under boost all the time.
>>>" was also looking into just going direct drive.. Hell, My S/C is engaged most the time anyway; just the way I like it."<<<

The system is for drive-ability and economy, have you put some jumper wires to the clutch so that it is always on? To see how it would run? Give that a try before you make the smaller pulley.

I see what you are trying to do, and I understand the clutch is preventing the use of a smaller pulley on the SC. Smaller pulley = more boost thats fine, but a smaller pulley = more slip.

I think the only2 55s that are direct drive w/o bypass is hooleyboy any way he has a N/A 55 with a 55K SC on it, and
Black benz but he has a Kleenman SC I think.

Last edited by Yacht Master; Jan 20, 2010 at 06:34 PM.
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 09:01 PM
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The major hurdle to doing this is not the mechanics, it is what Jackpro1 has described, the electronics.

You have a few issues:

-ECU knows when it should not be seeing boost; hence it will not like seeing boost all the time because it knows that should not be.
-ECU connects/disconnects supercharger in more scenarios than just certain rpm/throttle input; hence if it cannot disconnect, it will get upset.
-ECU maps are designed to have NO boost at certain rpm/throttle input levels; therefore adding boost to those portions of the map could = kaboom
-ECUs full interaction with S/C clutch assembly is poorly understood; trying to mess with it will likely turn up additional, even more complicated issues.

I agree with this statement: Our ECUs are the devil, and it does not help that our aftermarket, for the lack of better works, TOTALLY SUCKS.

-m
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 09:52 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Yacht Master
I was under the impression you wanted it under boost all the time.
>>>" was also looking into just going direct drive.. Hell, My S/C is engaged most the time anyway; just the way I like it."<<<

The system is for drive-ability and economy, have you put some jumper wires to the clutch so that it is always on? To see how it would run? Give that a try before you make the smaller pulley.

I think the only2 55s that are direct drive w/o bypass is hooleyboy any way he has a N/A 55 with a 55K SC on it, and
Black benz but he has a Kleenman SC I think.
I like your idea about testing the S/C clutch first.. Thank you for the tip/idea.

I think locking the clutch is not that major of a change , as far as saftey goes.. We are just talking about having very low rpm boost under 2K (like most S/C set ps) .. I drive 70 plus on the hwy and my S/C is engadged at that speed anyway.. Not much fuel economy to save there.. Tuning has evolved and this may be an option now..

I am going with a larger crank pulley in a couple of weeks but interested in the direct drive later down the road.. I do not like clutch slip, clutch engadging or paying 1200 plus to replace a unit that does not do much for my performance goals.. Yes, my warranty may cover it but for how long and then if there is better solution..

Just thinking ahead with this mod..
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CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.

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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 10:33 PM
  #12  
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Sounds like it would run like all the procharger/vortech kits out there, even all the TVS blowers on the Ls1 engine.
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 11:49 PM
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keep in mind that once the s/c is fully engaged the only slip is from the belt, not the clutch...and a smaller s/c pulley will only make this worse.
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 12:57 AM
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If the ECU freaks out when the s/c clutch is locked, program it not to freak out...
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 07:40 AM
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hi all,


did someone notice that stock S/C pulley comes in 2 different sizes ?

the dealership replaced my friends S/C pulley under warrenty and the new one is from side to side 90mm while mine which is still the factory one is 93mm. it sounds small different 3 mm, but if u calculate the ratio it will be about 3.3% more.


is it for G55 or SL55 2007+ ?


PS: Jakpro1 >> large pulleis do look like dishplates.

a always tell them bring some food to serve it on these pulleys.

Last edited by Ali_E55; Jan 22, 2010 at 07:43 AM.
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